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Coolant Leak C20XE - I'm getting frustrated!

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I'm slowly getting my car back together, engine back in a few weeks ago and fluids filled, ever since then there has been a couple of coolant leaks (engine not started yet), one from a hose - fixed no problem, one from the temp sender which is still weeping a bit and the big one that drips off the sump.

Engine wise all I've done is change the cam belt.

After a lot of peering and poking it looks like the coolant may be coming from the water pump/pulley but it's hard to see properly as it is behind a cover plate, is it likely that just changing the cam belt would cause the leak?

I did wonder if I'd over tightened the cam belt tensioner pulling the pump drive shaft?

Any ideas from other Red Top owners?

Thanks in advance

Ian

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I had a slight oil weep on my first Zetec engine that was just as frustrating.

Turned out to be a porous oil pump casting - had to clean and degrease everything then sit patiently and wait for the small tell-tale blob of oil to magically appear on the casting and then start to run down to an area of the engine that I thought was the source.

Might be similar in your case Ian?

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I don't think so as it hasn't lost a drop in my ownership and only started after I'd changed the cam belt, as i don't believe in coincidences I must have caused it, but I don't know how!  Looks like it's a front end strip down just to see what's happening!

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Sure someone will be along soon who knows more about this than me but it does sound as if something has gone wrong with the water pump when the cam belt was tensioned

 

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Is it a rubber O ring seal on the XE pump?

If so you've probably pinched it.

Doubtful you could damage the pump before the engines run,and usually this only occurs if you fit a new belt to a used/worn pump. 

The extra tension on a new belt can be too much for the pump :)

Then again could just be a faulty part you've been supplied.

Before you remove the pump look where the coolant is coming from,drain hole in pump casing or joint between pump and block.

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33 minutes ago, terry everall said:

Sure someone will be along soon who knows more about this than me but it does sound as if something has gone wrong with the water pump when the cam belt was tensioned

 

That's exactly what I'd say @terry everall chances are the pump has slight wear through general use and a new belt and tension may have shown any play in the spindle. If timing belt runs around the waterpump it' an important gear as any pulley as if that fails can cause the belt to jump or snap causing major damage, maybe worth changing regardless. It's an extra cost but won' need doing every belt change.

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Oh I was presuming the pump was new,bad practise to fit a new belt to a old pump:ph34r:

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2 hours ago, CosKev said:

Oh I was presuming the pump was new,bad practise to fit a new belt to a old pump:ph34r:

My life is peppered with bad practice, I'm used to doing jobs twice, or even three times! No matter, when it warms again I'll have a closer look.

Although I cranked the engine over a few times and it doesn't appear to be as bad now (clutching at straws I know).

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How strong is the coolant mix? 

Some use 50% coolant and 50% water but many use just 20% coolant with less chance of seepage.

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it's Evans waterless, so not dilutes at all, i did wonder if this was part of the problem as before it just had a water/coolant mix.

 

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If it leaks with the Evans stuff it will leak with a 'normal' coolant as the the Evans is a higher viscosity.

Be very careful with the Evans stuff, I did a lot of research trying to work out the best approach for cooling on road and track.  In short it does not suck as much heat per volume of fluid and if you are on a mechanical pump with flow linked to revs your engine will run hotter compared to traditional coolant.   In the end I settled on genuine GM coolant which is cheap and far closer to what it was designed to run on.  That is just my opinion as my investigation was Internet based and we all know opposing views are facts on the Internet.

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Just to bring this to a conclusion, after noticing a reduction in the leak after turning the engine over (not my imagination afterall) I have cranked it everyday for a few seconds, and behold a miracle the leak has stopped, so i guess a seal in the water pump bearings has has now started doing it's job, time will tell if it's ok with a bit of heat and pressure in it.

 

Ian 

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Fingers crossed :ph34r:

But my moneys on it needing replacing after a few hundred miles I'm afraid:popcorn:

Will also then,ideally, need another new belt, as you shouldn't re-tension a used belt.

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if you never replaced the pump its probably the rear o ring seal ithink its worth at a min to replace the o ring or at worse pump now    this will always weep now  there s no need to replace with new belt.

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