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Steve20

Sierra Rear Calipers

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Hi,

Did a search but couldn't find anything so excuse me if this has been asked before.

In the process of changing a rear calliper but struggling like ...... to get the hand brake cable on, in theory it should not be necessary but do I have to slacken off the cable adjuster in the tunnel to gain a bit more length in the cable..?

Cheers

Steve

 

 

 

 

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Yes. You need as much slack as you can get. I remember them being a pig to get on. Well, to be exact, the first was easy enough, as the slack cable just pulled through the cable balancer, but once that was on, the second was a pain. I had to slacken the balancer right off to do it.

Its sort of logical when you think about it though, to get the end piece of the cable onto the lever on the calliper, you have to pull and twist it to an angle way outside it’s normal working range, once it’s in place.

Do not apply the handbrake, or pull the handbrake levers on the calipers into the on position to make cable fitting easier though, until the brakes have been bled.

The handbrake mechanism has a mechanical self adjustment mechanism in each caliper to take up pad wear. It operates evertime you put the handbrake on. But if done before the brakes are bled the first time, the way it takes up the initial “slack” means you can’t quite bleed the rears properly afterwards, and you end up with a softer brake pedal, that goes harder when the handbrake is on.

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Yeah as above,no chance of doing it without slackening the cables!

The angle you need to get the cable end at to remove it from the arm on the caliper is pretty extreme :)

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This whole job has just go a lot bigger, unfortunately they way I trimmed the tunnel (padded leather cloth) means I will have to remove the seats to get access to the cable adjuster, shame I didn't find the leaky calliper till the sun came out!

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You can reach the adjuster from the rear its just above the diff. if not just force the lever on the caliper over with a bar get some mole grips on the cable end and pull it over. Or take the pad out get cable on then wind caliper back in .

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That’s just it if you do pull the lever down to get the cable on you must then wind the Piston back in with the correct tool. Then with it all back together and bled,  pump the piston out fully with the foot brake before pulling the handbrake lever.

Failure to do this will result in poor/uneven handbrake performance.

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Yeah, know the feeling. I’ve got a different handbrake setup, but still, before my MOT the other week, had to adjust out three years of cable stretch. Which meant removing the seats and inner harness lap belts, just to get the carpet up to get at the adjuster. Oh and one of the seat mounting studs was bent from grounding, so I had to cut that off and weld a new one in.

One job just leads to another!

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