Jump to content
Two7

FW SE Zetec Build 2018

Recommended Posts

Oh, I nearly forgot, depending on the engine and induction type you've gone for, some set up will be needed anyway, (things like individual throttle bodies for each cylinder, need balancing). So even if you just ran the engine for two minutes without doing this set up, it could run like a bag of nails anyway, and make you think you have a fault, when in reality, it just needs you to do five minutes set up, to run perfectly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

QUESTION ABOUT BRAKE BLEEDING.    I hope to have the front suspension and uprights all sorted this week.  At that point I will have all the brake lines connected front and back, I can even get the wheels on to measure up steering rack for wide track cut.   I was thinking now might be a great time to fill and bleed the brakes as I haven't got the fuel tank on yet nor fitted the engine so I have lots of easy access to spot leaks and tweak unions.   Is my plan to fill and bleed this early in the build flawed in some way ?   Any advice appreciated.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Front uprights, wishbones, shocks and steering tie rods all connected.   I have torqued up the ball joints top and bottom wishbones, there is barely any thread showing above the nylon insert, but I guess that is OK as I am using the nylocs supplied with the ball joints, please shout if that is a known IVA fail.

I have substantial toe out at the moment, but that is to be expected as I haven't shortened the steering rack yet.  WORD OF ADVICE, do not be tempted to shorted the steering rack extension , it reduces total length, but that is not what you want, you need to reduce the length of the thread the extension screws on to.

I have fitted the speed sensor, word of advice dry fit and get the 1mm to 2 mm gap with back of wheel studs, then tighten up off the car then attach to steering arm.  Note the bracket will deform a little away from the studs as you tighten up the bracket.

I have currently got the speed sensor cable armoured and going up under front of top wishbone.  I plan to merge the indicator repeater wire in same armour, is this location and approach a good idea ?

Next job, persuade my wife to sit in the car pumping brake pedal while I spend a pleasant hour or so trying to fill and bleed the brakes.   Having done this before I am anticipating leaks and stress as I worry about over tightening unions and she complains her leg aches.

Blue tape in pictures remind me t torque when down on wheels and loaded.

 

disk_brake3.jpg

disk_brake4.jpg

disk_brake1.jpg

disk_brake2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ben, I tried that once before and it didn't end well, probably user error on my part, but I did end up in a terrible mess. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Ben (bunje) said:

id get yourself a gunson easibleed and use that to bleed the brakes. makes life so much easier

I used the Gunson and found it worked really well. I also used the "wooden rod wedged on the brake pedal overnight" technique as suggested on this forum. I was quite skeptical but it did appear to move air towards the bleed nipples.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Two7 said:

Hi Ben, I tried that once before and it didn't end well, probably user error on my part, but I did end up in a terrible mess. 

You probably either connected it to too high a pressure in the spare tyre, or the rubber seal in the easy bleed cap may have been damaged or not quite seated. Both have the same messy results!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well after 2 hours I think the brake fill and first bleed was completed successfully.   Don't want to tempt fate but out of the 19 joints, I only had 1 little leak, just a tweak of the union and that was cured, phew  :d.  Decided to go with two person approach, still have bitter memories of fluid spraying out.  Will do a final top up and final bleed after wheels on and down on the ground.    

Top tip, disconnect the handbrake upper  linkage so you can get at the rear inboard nipple.  Also bleed quite a bit as the master cylinder appeared to have some very dirty fluid lurking in it, probably from manufacturing or testing.

Did the battery box today, decided to go with a rivsert on engine side as I can't see how on earth you could ever do / undo the nut and bolt they supplied in the kit. I have made an earth on the steering rack bracket as per manual, I looked at the brake union, but fear that I couldn't tighten it up enough for a solid earth ( fear damaging the 3 way brass union).

Next job the petrol tank and fuel system.

 

 

 

battery.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed on your video that no plastic protector caps are fitted to your front upper wishbone locknut (camber adjuster)

1056226029_ScreenShot2018-09-22at09_41_35.thumb.png.34f56d59732a1ba3a7082fa453401aec.png

You can either:

  1. drill a hole in the top of the plastic cap and cut a slot down the side and slip it over...... OR
  2. drill a hole in the top of the plastic cap, completely unwind the camber adjuster so the upright becomes disconnected from the wishbone, remove the locknut then install cap, refit locknut, reconnect wishbone.  CAUTION: support upright when finally unscrewing the adjuster!

Personally, I prefer option 2.  This gives the impression of diligence during assembly, option 1 looks like an after thought.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.