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Tim (TimDave25) - Joint Thames Valley AO

Lightweight Alternator - Nippon denso SOLD

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0 miles refurbished Nippon denso alternator. It is spotless, the dirt in the picture was from my grubby hand picking it up!

Greatway to save a load of weight and space.

Our cars need very little power compared to the donor vehicles we typically get our alternators from. I have used one on my Zetec for years without issue as have many others on here. You can get mounts from various places such as Retro Ford, SBD Motorsport, etc. The pulley can be changed to a multi v belt compatible one.

£75 posted within the UK.

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Hi

Ill take this please. I take it that’s it will suit a Vauxhall C20XE engine if I get appropriate mounts?

How do you want paying?

Regards

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I will buy it if it is not suitable for jimbobtcc.

Thanks, Phil.

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10 hours ago, Trevturtle said:

I bought my pulley Here

...and Demon Tweaks sell large diameter ones if needed. You need to ensure you Alternator pulley ratio to crank pulley ratio won't allow the Alternator to see north of 18,000rpm at max engine rpm, unless you want to buy another soon! With my Honda S2000 engine having a 9000 rpm redline, the first one I bought saw 22,500rpm at full chat :(

 

  • Thanks 1

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Is the calc crank pulley dia divided by alt pulley dia multiplies by max revs?

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Or just 18,000 divided by engine max revs gives the multiplier value. So divide crank pulley dia by the multiplier and that’s the smallest size alt pulley I can use? 

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Yeah, so in my case my crank pulley dia is circa 155mm and with a 63mm dia pulley would mean at 9000rpm the alternator would be seing 22142 revs (155/63) *9000, where as with at 80mm pulley is a more sedate 17430rpm for the alternator. You don't want to get it to slow else it won't charge at idle (my larger pulley means the alternator is doing 1937rpm at the Honda Idle of 1000rpm). the good folk at brise are very helpful with such topics and it's their pulley I bought via Demon Tweaks.

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If you're going dry sump I'd replace the pulley with a ribbed belt version while you're at it

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For your pleasure 

  • Haha 1

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Whatever gets your kicks mate

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22 hours ago, IanK (Bagpuss) said:

...and Demon Tweaks sell large diameter ones if needed. You need to ensure you Alternator pulley ratio to crank pulley ratio won't allow the Alternator to see north of 18,000rpm at max engine rpm, unless you want to buy another soon! With my Honda S2000 engine having a 9000 rpm redline, the first one I bought saw 22,500rpm at full chat :(

 

Where does the 18,000 rpm limit come from? I have a similar looking alternator on my duratec that has just failed (broken winding). I will measure my pulleys later to see what sort of RPM it has been seeing as the duratec revs to 8500 rpm!

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5 minutes ago, SimonUK said:

Where does the 18,000 rpm limit come from? I have a similar looking alternator on my duratec that has just failed (broken winding). I will measure my pulleys later to see what sort of RPM it has been seeing as the duratec revs to 8500 rpm!

Hi Simon,

I wouldn't think excess revs will kill the windings as they are stationary. It's more likely the bearings that will fail. Clearly different manufacturers will spec different bearings in the alternators and design them for different speeds, however it's states 18,000rpm on this website for a similar Denso Item: http://www.brise.co.uk/Denso-5305.html

The Standard Honda S2000 Alternator spins at up to 23,000rpm based on pulley size. However I removed it and wanted to fit a smaller, lighter alternator.

Unfortunately I bought a not so cheap 'Denso' copy of fleabay and it only last circa 3000 miles before the charge warning light started to flicker (It was still charging) but I expected it would fail eventually and my spinning it frequently, albeit it briefly to 22,500rpm won't have helped. 

If it was a track car and it spent lots of time near the redline, I'm sure the alternator would have died much sooner and may be with road use as the high speed isn't continuous the bearings may cope. 

I bought my replacement from here: http://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1202

However take care to ensure the output stud is in the correct location as the first one had the stud on the block side and would mean in the event of the tensioner failing it would short on the block. They can supply them handed either side.

It's easy enough to swap pulleys with an impact driver.

 

 

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