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MrMgoo

FW special edition 2017 new build from a new member

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

As Dave has said, the eyebolts shouldn't be tight. Might be worth considering trial fitting each one in its boss without the tub in place (which is where you are now I believe?), just to make sure there's not powder oat in the threads.

You could then fit the tub and bolt up in its final position, then check visually the alignment of each hole with the boss beneath it. If necessary adjust the hole to give clearance to the spacer using a Dremel with small sanding drum, just a little at a time, and check fit, you don't want the grp touching any part of the spacer. Then final fit using spacer and packing washer of required to achieve eyebolt alignment. This was how I aligned and fitted mine, also used similar principle for rollbar holes.

Its suprising how much the bodywork "settles with time and presumably vibration, from driving!

Think it's worth spending a bit of time getting the eyebolts correct and neat, my IVA examiner had a good look at mine and asked various questions, which I was able to answer with the aid of build photos, showing the depth of the boss, and the ad length of eyebolt etc.

Not saying this is "the way", just a way that worked for me.

 

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Agreed, I've always run a tap through any threads on the chassis to clean them up. As Adge said, there's often traces of powder coat in there, and sometime's they can be just a little rough from the processes the chassis has to go through in manufacture.

I do like the grommet idea, I must say. Visually closes the gaps nicely, yet at the same time is "safe" and won't see the bodywork chipping on our potholed roads.

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MrMgoo

Yeah, I'm fitting the bolts without the tub on at the moment, just as stiff as before and I think your correct in that there is some residue in the threads.

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Ben (bunje)
4 hours ago, MrMgoo said:

Yeah, I'm fitting the bolts without the tub on at the moment, just as stiff as before and I think your correct in that there is some residue in the threads.

dont forget the eye bolts are an english thread 7/16UNF usually

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MrMgoo

Rear bracket for tub today. In place at with the same measurements as @AdgeC provided .. 125mm and 140mm.

image.thumb.jpg.1c5e527c2b18e84db90df83f57e1a972.jpg

 

Also put rear tub in place and fitted ok

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MrMgoo

Marked up where I'd expect the roll bar to go

 

IMG_1473.thumb.JPG.814e204eb06a897f364fee317dc188e7.JPG

 

Made sure measurements the same both ends

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MrMgoo

Tub,, fuel cap, wings, arches, eye bolts and rear bracket all in and tighten up.

IMG_1475.thumb.JPG.de6409a10187616a65be7a5d0d5799c4.JPG

IMG_1476.thumb.JPG.1d1f27ad78debb4826c4081511200bac.JPG

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MrMgoo

Tomorrow will be fit the roll bar and hopefully pop rivet the wings on 

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO
10 hours ago, MrMgoo said:

Rear bracket for tub today. In place at with the same measurements as @AdgeC provided .. 125mm and 140mm.

No pressure then, hope the're right, seems a long time ago now!

Bodywork looking good.

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MrMgoo

I'd like to put a grommet at the bottom of the roll bar (both ends) where it meets the tub to hide the gap .. I used a 54mm hole drill bit and the gap is too big for my liking. Has anyone done this before and anyone got any suppliers where I can get the grommet?

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Chris Brading

Hi,

I ordered 1mm thick carbon fibre sheets from easy composites and made covers. its quite easy to work with just keep the hoover running close by to pick up the dust as its worse than fibre glass.

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MrMgoo

Update:

Rollbar, eye bolts for harness and bonnet fitted  I decided to try and use rubber around the rollbar instead of carbon fibre ... I can always change it. As I couldn't find a suitable sized grommet I tried to fashion one. When I push it into place with my fingers it looks fine but lifts when no pressure so I will have to find an appropriate glue to keep it in place.

20180925_192811.thumb.jpg.b29f8a5957b02a3dbc719cb8ccb014c8.jpg

20180925_192816.thumb.jpg.e7b066a6a011613c642d37ac8ff27522.jpg

 

The bonnet was on and off a few times as when the T-hinge was tightened it caused the bonnet to lift by the skuttle. I fashioned an aluminium strip the same size as the T-hinge ... placed a washer in-between this and the T-Hinge and placed onto the bonnet which gave it enough to lower the bonnet in at the skuttle end.

20180925_192819.thumb.jpg.e83006c8df7bd23b4d9a85fee2faf904.jpg.  

bonnet attached and raised ... I can get access to the engine :-)

 

20180925_192854.thumb.jpg.c3e21f0f0d453dbe05f78a49fa9d8903.jpg 

.. inside bonnet just beneath the radiator

 

Edited by MrMgoo
too many spelling mistakes
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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

Neat work, just a thought, Have you considered using superglue to stick the cut butt ends of the rollbar trim together, to make a sort of grommet IYSWIM.

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MrMgoo
17 minutes ago, AdgeC said:

Neat work, just a thought, Have you considered using superglue to stick the cut butt ends of the rollbar trim together, to make a sort of grommet IYSWIM.

Hadn't thought of trying that on the ends only ... just didn't want super glue on the tub in case I wanted to change my mind. Give it a go tonight

 

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MrMgoo

So the Tub, rear wings and sides are bolted together. The tub is bolted to the frame and the bonnet is bolted to the front after checking that it aligns to the side panels.

I've looked under the car at the side panels and about half way it pulls away from the frame ... by the time it get close to the front wheels , the bottom of the side panels are over an inch away from the bottom of the frame.

do I need to use the wall paper scrapper to gently allow the panel to fit underneath the frame?20180925_200025.thumb.jpg.9b1e1f2835ba894c28ddf43b2d0f5e15.jpg

 

20180925_200033.thumb.jpg.b278cff5ceeeb0f98003fccab7d4aae3.jpg

 

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