Jump to content
Flying Tango

Found in engine oil

Recommended Posts

Suspect I already know the answer but.......

Dry sump red top.....belt vanished on the motorway at about 60mph, engine running for 5 mins at most by this point. Couldn't get off safely so ended up driving for about 3 mins after I noticed zero oil pressure.

Turned over by hand and one squeak, new belt on and fired up, sounded normal. Found these bits on the drain pan and after a second tickover to hot, no more came out. They are thin as foil, soft and not magnetic.

Bearing faces? Rebuild mains and big ends time?

IMG_20170629_163326.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would inspect. If bearing gone then rods could subsequently get damaged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sump off is easy on dry sump. Best not to run it, as you move swarf round the engine. If you have lost a bearing, the best way is total strip down as swarf may be sitting in oilways and may block them at a later date.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have seconds only when running an engine with no oil pressure, normally. Not minutes, so I'd be expecting bearing damage.

Unfortunately by continued running, the debris is going to have been pulled all around the oil system.

There's potentially a lot of cleaning in your future, even without the repairs.

Personally, I'd treat it as a bench job with the engine out, even if only the big ends, as cleaning all the oil ways out is going to be a sod of a job without stripping most of it down. (Scarf tends to stick in any sludge that's built up at the ends of blind oilways etc. and can break free down the line, re-damaging everything).

Strip the bottom end down, measure all clearances, replace what needs it, check for signs of heat damage in things like the rods big ends. Completely clean out block and head.

Strip oil system down, flush and clean all dry sump hoses, remote filter housing, if fitted and dry sump pan. Strip and clean out dry sump tank.

Open up dry sum pump and check for signs of contamination getting into both themscavenge pump section(s) and the pressure pump section. You may get away with just a clean, or it may require a service if the rotors are damaged.

If you have an oil cooler, then unless it can be stripped and cleaned, it will probably need throwing away, as most normally can't be properly cleaned and inspected.

If you start with the engine though, you should quickly get a feel for how much damage has been done and how far debris has been spread.

Sorry. It sucks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Before you dip into ripping stuff apart I'd get a sample of that oil analyzed and see what the lab says. It's cheap and easy to do in the USA and I assume it is there too.

dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More limited here Dave, sadly we just don't have the wealth of local speed shops and ancillary services you do there.

It was driven several minutes with no drive belt on a dry sump pump, so not only no oil pressure, but no oil flow. It's then had a belt put on and been started.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That can't be good. I somehow missed the fact that it's a belt driven dry sump.

I'd seen something similar in oil once and it turned out to be the foil seal on the top of the oil bottle that had passed through the system. The engine was fine. I doubt this one is fine unfortunately.

Sorry.

dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not that I think it is valves, but they're not normally "magnetic" anyway, and while bearing back shells may be ferrous, the lining surface usually isn't... more of an engine than you might think wouldn't get attracted to a magnet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awww, so unfair :-(. That's my weekend sorted then!

I'm finding lots of bearing manufacturers on eBay, glyco and mahle I've heard of, has anybody used any of these others?

Nevlock 
King
Kolbenschmidt
SMY

Thanks for replies guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Miller's oil do oil sampling analysis for about £25-30. Fast turnaround and can tell you what is the likely issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at those slivers of metal and the fact the engine ran without oil pressure for some minutes, only means one thing.  The bearings are b*******ed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine is out. 2 of the big end journals have some copper transfer but pass the finger nail test. Am minded to polish with autosol and refit. Should probably take the crank to a specialist though!

IMG_20170707_122234.jpg

IMG_20170707_122256.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have lost the white metal, thats still in the engine somewhere. The crank looks salvageable , but you will need the big ends on the rods checks, as it looks like it got hot. You might be lucky , as the pump will have not pumped it through the engine and maybe just in the lower area of the sump and block.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.