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jonjh1964

jonjh1964's XI Build

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jonjh1964

The bell housing arrived back from Westfield by 'Saturday' shipment to allow me to make the most of the Bank Holiday weekend.

The first job was to get the angle grinder out and remove sufficient material from the bell housing to clear the 1275 oil pump and also allow the clutch slave cylinder to sit flush.

I then fitted the gearbox, bell housing and engine together to ensure that they'd fit before fully assembling them.

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Bell housing fitted to the gearbox and release arm fitted.

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Slave Cylinder fitted

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Engine and gearbox mated and WOSP starter motor installed ready to go into the chassis tomorrow.

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jonjh1964

Today was the first engine installation to check for clearance and drill the gearbox mount bolt hole in the chassis.  After a trial run to make sure that we could get the hoist we decided that the best approach was to put the front of the car up on axle stands, once we started we needed to remove the axle stands so temporarily jacked up the front.

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This was the first install to mark out the gearbox mounting holes, we also saw a potential foul between the prop shaft and the handbrake mounting bolt so fitted a shorter bolt and turned it around to maximise the clearance.

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We did have a bit of a moment with the front engine mounts until we worked out that we had them upside down and then on the wrong sides - eventually sorted it out with the rubber mount dowel above the bolt.

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The engine is now fitted and I'll had a good look around and will need to do some more fettling of the bell housing because the starter motor blister is very close to the tunnel chassis upright.  I also need to connect up the speedo drive cable and reverse switch so once I've completed the Megajolt wiring and finalised the rest of the engine installation I'll get the engine out again and do the final fettling of these and any other issues I find.

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Finally a quick look at the sump clearance - definitely the lowest part of the car but not as bad as I thought it might be and the front suspension needs adjustment which will raise it further.

Many thanks to James who dragged himself out of bed before 10am and then spent 4 hours helping me despite being on an all day pub crawl around Bath and not getting home until the early hours.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Jon,

Good progress indeed.

I had the same issue with the chassis upright against the bellhousing - solution pictured below.IMG_0066.thumb.JPG.15b14cf479084711be772a85b83c0c5c.JPG

My engine mount ended up like this (so my engine / box is probably a little further back than yours - hence the need for a bigger "chunk" out of the bellhousing) :

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My sump hung down like your has.  I had welded on 3mm steel skid strips and a 3mm steel leading edge and was glad I did when I hit a gate keep on one of my early runs out with the car.  The sump pan is still deformed but was not pierced!  Now I have sorted (longer) suspension, I have a little more than 3" clearance, still using the skidded sump.  One of Saturday's jobs was checking a Scenic Tour route that I am organising.  70 miles in country lanes and, despite pressing on, no issues with grounding out.  Speed bumps are no longer a problem since the suspension was picked up, but I tend to go to one side of the small, square obstacles rather than have the wheels straddle them.

Keep up the good work - and the excellent reporting!

Simon

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jonjh1964

Simon,

Thanks for the photos, I'll probably take as much off the starter blister to make sure I have good clearance when the engine moves on the road.

I've trimmed down the gearbox mount the same way that you have but the photo also appears to show your gearbox tail further over in the mount.  Is this standard or did you slot the M12 mounting bolt hole, as I think it would help to move the tail of the gearbox towards the nearside of the tunnel to get it more central and make room for the reverse switch and speedo drive.

I like the 90 deg offset for the speedo drive, the only place I've seen them is Burton Power, they we're over £100 and it looked as though it would then need a screw on cable at the gearbox end.

Good to hear that you're testing tour routes, we did one a couple of weeks ago and it was bad enough in a Westfield, I can only imagine what it was like for AdgeC in a Triking with all the grass in the middle of the road track.

Cheers

 

Jon

 

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stephenh

Speedy Cables do the 90 degree drives for the speedos, but they are over £100.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Jon,

I bought my speedo right angle drive (and cable to suit) from Speedy Cables.  Speedy Cables really do know their stuff but seem to be a little company that need to be kept on top of to meet their delivery dates (one of my items had been forgotten along the way but, when reminded, the issue was very quickly sorted out).  Stephen's right, they are over £100 but, other than laying the cable in the driver's footwell, I coud see no other way of taking the rotation to the front.  If the cable were run in the footwell, it would be bound to be in the way in the pedal box - an area not over-endowed with room!

Now you mention it, I seem to recall slotting the mount with a rotary file to move the gearbox over.

I devised this tour route so deliberately avoided as many "tiny" lanes as possible.  Apart from the considerable surface issues these days, I find tours much less stressful if I am able to gently bowl along double width roads, rather than be constantly jumping on the brakes every time a bend appears.  They are particularly hazardous in very low cars because oncoming traffic definitely expects to find 4x4s and agricultural vehicles.

Simon

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jonjh1964

I decided to check out the SU HIF44 clearance with the bonnet and it doesn't.

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After reading through various discussions on the Westfield-elevens forum I phoned Maniflow and they're sending me out a tacked space model of their current Spridget manifold. If it fits they'll make me one and post it, if it needs adaptation they'll make me a bespoke one. Unfortunately they'll changed the standard manifold design since the last time they did an Eleven one and I only had info on the original differences.

The Maniflow manifold will come straight out of the head and have a smaller angle up and this should give the necessary clearance to the bonnet.

Target for the rest of the weekend is to finish the chassis and megajolt wiring looms and perhaps finalise the engine installation positions - oh and do a beat up Cheddar Gorge on Saturday morning.

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jonjh1964

Not a lot of progress over the last couple of weeks; Tricia and I had a week away in Barcelona and when we got home we've been doing the first of the University drop off runs.

Maniflow have delivered the inlet manifold, having found their notes on the previous ones they'd built for an Eleven there was no need for the space model.

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Hopefully next week I'll get sometime to finalise the engine fit and finish off the wiring; I need to have the car ready to trailer to the Bristol Classic Car Show in early November.

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jonjh1964

I managed to get a couple of hours in the garage today.  First task was to get the engine out, slot the gearbox mount to move the tail over by 1/4" and fettle the starter blister on the bell housing.

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About 5mm removed from the bell housing with a flap disc.

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Slotted the A/V mount to allow the tail of the gearbox to be moved to the passenger side of the tunnel

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Nicely offset

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Engine and gearbox back in and reasonable clearance between the bell housing and tunnel

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'some' clearance between the WOSP hi-torque starter

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Exhaust manifold and carburettor fitted.

Hopefully I'll get another couple of hours in the garage over the weekend as I'm planning to trailer it to the Bristol Classic Car show at Shepton Mallet in early November to be part of the Dorset Area display.

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Adge Cutler- Dorset AO

Looking good Jon. Engine in for good now? Shout if you need a hand to get ready for B&W. Can't lift anything currently with my knackered back, but can "potter"!

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jonjh1964
On ‎22‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 18:40, AdgeC said:

Looking good Jon. Engine in for good now? Shout if you need a hand to get ready for B&W. Can't lift anything currently with my knackered back, but can "potter"!

Thanks for the offer Adge, I'm taking things nice any easy on the build so that I maximise the enjoyment and currently have two boys to help for another week.

Over the weekend I've made some progress on the cooling system with the obp expansion tank fitted as well as the rigid and rubber hoses

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I've marked holes for the bottom mount and also made a template to cut out the scuttle.  The top hose on the carburettor is the overflow - taking it well clear of the exhaust, the lower is the fuel feed and the uncapped is the vacuum that goes to the cam cover.

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All the cooling rigid pipes fitted and the rubber hoses cut to size - I haven't fitted them as the thermostat cover needs a new gaskets and longer studs plus I need to sort out p-clips to support them as they go through the chassis.

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I also fitted the fuel filter and pressure regulator - it has a pressure gauge and is adjustable once I get to that stage.

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The final thing was fitting the wheel arch closure panels, both needed a little trimming down and I've ordered a selection of rubber sections to find the best way of closing the gap between the bonnet at the closure panels.  I'm also starting to think about making areas to store stuff when touring the above looks like a good fuel or tool  storage opportunity.

 

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jonjh1964

It's been a few weeks since I last posted as I haven't had much garage time through a combination of University runs and work.  With the Classic Vehicle Restoration Show now only 3 weeks away I need to get the car to the point where it can be trailered safety there and I'm away in the US next week so I needed to get some hours in the garage this weekend.

Rather than fit the IVA 'frogeyes' I fitted the standard head light covers.  First I measured up and marked up the bonnet and fitted the countersunk M6 aluminium  rivnuts. Once these were fitted I offered up each of the covers and marked up the holes on one side trying to get the best fit on that side.  After drilling the holes I screwed on the lens and then marked out the edges with masking tape that I then cut down to with a combination of flap disc and sanding paper.  Once I was happy with the fit I marked up the holes for the opposite side, drilled them then polished the lens and fitted them

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Near side lens

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Offside lens

The manual has the fuse boxes fitted by cutting clearance holes through the passenger footwell and then mounting them with the fuse box covers accessible.  Having looked at other build blogs I decided that I'd mount them on a bracket accessible through the padded dash quarter close out panel.  I've bought 25mm offsets but couldn't find them so will fit them later.

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Next I fitted the exhaust, there's a noise reduction cone for the IVA that needs to be fitted between the link and exhaust box and it took a couple of goes before I worked out how to mount the anti-vibration 'bobbin' on the band at the rear of the exhaust.

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The final job I completed was connecting up the alternator, temperature sender and Megajolt EDIS and coil pack

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Jon,

I have just posted the below on robhume's thread.  As it is relevant to the exhaust (and specifically the "secret cone"), I thought I'd re-post it here.

"To reduce the sound level on the Eleven, I am going to drill out the rivets holding the Westfield supplied silencer together, and make the box repackable.  When I built my car, I had the Westfield supplied cone in it for quite a while and I think that this may have directed hot gases towards the packing and, possibly, burned the goodness out of it.  Certainly, heat marking is visible on the the front part of the box.  I will then reassemble the box using rivnuts to seal it and will report back.  My car has now covered 1750 miles which may also have seen progressive deterioration.  With this in mind, I would suggest that you and current builders leave the cone out of the pipe until just before the IVA, removing it quickly afterwards so that the hot gases pass linearly through the box".

I don't know what the others may think.

Simon

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jonjh1964

Simon,

Thanks for the advice about only fitting just before the IVA, I'd previously advised me to remove the cone after the IVA but I thought that was for performance rather than to prevent damage to the exhaust.

Cheers,

Jon

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MK11

Simon,

I don't know if the exhaust is different now, but I tried drilling out the rivets and dismantling it to repack the silencer, however, no matter what I tried I couldn't get the thing apart.

Hope you have better luck than I.

Matthew

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