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jonjh1964

jonjh1964's XI Build

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stephenh

It is looking good, Jon. Excellent progress.

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jonjh1964
8 hours ago, stephenh said:

It is looking good, Jon. Excellent progress.

Thanks Stephen, helped by constantly going back to your blog to check for tips.

 

Jon

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jonjh1964

Not much progress, today I got a call from Paul Hurley confirming the final build standard of the engine rebuild and that he expects to have it ready by the end of the month.  I've ordered the wheels 5 x 13" silver alloy Minilites  using the WSCC discount at Hamiltonclassics, (not the yellow that I originally wanted due to pressure from SWMBO.......) Malcolm has also called to advise that Type 9 gearbox now has it's long 1st gear kit fitted and been refreshed with new bearings for the main, lay shafts and seals so I'll pick it up on the way to the Dorset monthly meeting on Thursday.

The hand brake and cable are now fitted, I have an MGB hand brake switch on order as the Midget never had one so I will need to fabricate a bracket for it, the hole for the wires is already drilled and has a grommet fitted.

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The radiator is also fitted, rather than use the donor I've bought new, unfortunately I got rid of the old one without removing the filler cap which the new one came without so another £10 later I have a nice shiny brass one with a new o-ring

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I've also bought some labels for the switches, not cheap but I think they look better that the dyno tape suggested by Westfield, hopefully the IVA inspector agrees; they also mask the fact that I needed to elongate the head light switch holes in the dash - same problem that Stephen had with them hitting the top chassis bar.

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I'm away at the Crash Box Classic Car Show at Powderham Castle over the weekend so don't expect to get much done but I do hope to get the battery tray fitted and cable fitted through to the engine bay.

 

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stephenh

Those switch labels look good. Where did you get them from, Jon?

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Jon,

Those labels are the business - a good find.  I might just get a set of those labels to fix the next time I have the scuttle off my car.  The IVA Inspector will appreciate the permanence of the solution, rather than the makeshift application of tape, or even Sharpie felt pen labelling - I was invited to do the latter as an "on-the day" IVA fix. 

Could I suggest that you swap over the headlight and dip beam switch.  Set out as you have them, you will be reaching round the headlamp switch for the dip one and could find yourself flicking off the headlights when you go for high beam.  Much less likely to happen if the high beam switch is the first one you come across in the dark!

The bracket for the handbrake warning light was only fitted to late model MGB or Midget handbrake levers.  It is, however, a simple add-on - you only have to fashion a small tang and weld it on to the handbrake fulchrum plate.

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I also bent up a small aluminium protector to cover the bracket and switch to protect both the assembly and passenger's leg (from possible sharp projections behind the carpet),  Riveted onto the base bracket, all is safe and sound.

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Simon

 

 

 

 

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jonjh1964

I found the labels on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-1-2-2a-2b-3-Metal-Switch-Tab-Decal-Label-Badge-Turn-Signal/272087344592?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 not cheap at £4 each but I'm very pleased with the final appearance.

Thanks for the hand brake photos Simon, I'll also swap the switches over.  Have you had any issues seeing the switches in the dark? I was thinking about fitting a light under the scuttle edge to provide general illumination.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, John,

£4 each for those switch labels is not too bad - and the 1950s script is very evocative.

Once you've driven the car a few times, you will soon remember where the switches are.  I can't see the upper switches when driving as they are shrouded by the overhang of the scuttle so lighting would not be of any use.  In fact, I could not readily see the indicator warning lights so was leaving them on far too much.  I then lowered these to the level of the handbrake warning light, and also lowered the latter to solve this problem (filling the original holes with grommets which, as I cannot see them from the driving seat, does not cause me any offence)!

I have seen one XI with an original Mini indicator stalk (with the green light on the end) to control the indicators.  If that had a headlamp main/dip/flash function, that could well be the best solution of all.

Post IVA, I have fitted longer sprung toggle switches for the horn and an extra one for a headlamp flash - I found driving the XI such a pain without the latter

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The picture was taken before I lowered the turn signal warning lights.

The flasher switch was easy to wire in and, with the longer switches, the two items that are sometimes needed in a hurry fall quickly to hand - or finger!

Simon

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jonjh1964

Simon,

I like the old school ignition key  switch in the middle of the dash.

The labels are brass with the lettering etched then painted. They are also available in a natural finish and black lettering.

Tweeking the dash lay out once the car is on the road is all part of the kit car experience. My SEIW has gone from standard analogue gauges/switches to a digidash and wireless switches on the removable steering wheel since passing the IVA. I'm fitting a BlinkStop to the Eleven as I had it in the garage having upgraded  the SEIW to the FreeWheel.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Jon,

Painted labels for me - to go with the Smiths instruments!

The (three position - no acc. source needed) ignition switch came from Car Builder Solutions and was an easy splice using the plug and a few inches of the wire off the original ignition / steering lock (now removed, of course).  My younger son turned me up a stainless steel spacer for this so that the key sits forward of the dash and my fuel lock key and key fob do not clank against the hazard switch below.  It feels so right to have the starter key in the centre of the dash compared with fishing about below to start the (old style) car.

With my struggle to see the upper limits of the dashboard, I actually did away with the combined oil pressure / water gauge and fitted separate, full scale, instruments (hence the voltmeter to the right of the steering wheel).  Sorting these, the ignition switch, auxiliary power socket and the fire extinguisher added to my post IVA / pre-registration jobs list but, having now lived with the modifications for 1,000 miles, I'm happy that I did them.

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Simon

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jonjh1964

At the Dorset monthly meeting yesterday I picked up the gearbox after an overhaul and long 1st gear fit - many thanks Malcolm/Wessex.  A shiny set of Minilites arrived today by courier

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and I stopped in at Hurley Engine Services to handover a few bits and pieces and the head was being machined after having the new unleaded seats fitted.

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The inlet valves are being replaced with the bigger A+ Series ones from an MG Metro and the head will be given a light port/polish.  The engine block was also in machining being re-bored for the new PowerMax pistons which are 73.5mm so taking the engine out to 1380cc and also reaming the crankshaft bearing mountings.

The SEIW is now semi packed ready for an early start tomorrow down to Powderham Castle for the weekend.

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jonjh1964

After a busy July where there has been little progress on the car due to other commitments I got a call form Paul Hurley and headed off to Bath to pick up the engine. As ever, the specification changed slightly as we went along and it's now a 1380cc with a little more head work, ARP studs, PowerMax pistons etc (I've already hidden the bill from Tricia!)

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Inlet which also has the bigger A+ valves.

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Flywheel and clutch cover all balanced and Type 9 spigot bearing fitted.

And some Elevens from the Silverstone ClassicIMG_1446.thumb.JPG.b8fb1a84b605057a5b50d3f6195d9aef.JPG

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Hopefully this weekend I be able to finish off the battery wiring and get the engine, gearbox and prop shaft installed.

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jonjh1964

Frustrating weekend, I'd hoped to get the engine and gearbox installed but found that the bolts that I'd bought to mate the bell housing to the gearbox weren't long enough so the weekend needed a rethink.

In determining that the bolts were too short I also confirmed that the bigger oil pump fitted to the engine needed the bell housing to be fettled; after a file and the flap wheel I managed to remove enough material for to clear the pump.

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Next was to fit the clutch - straight forward with an alignment tool just making sure that the balancing marks lined up.

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It was at this point that I discovered that the bell housing bolts were too short......

In order to get something done with the time I fitted the timing wheels and bracket for the Megajolt crank sensor - once again this needed some thought as the kit is for a Mini and the Midget timing cover is slightly different.  The timing wheels still needs to be setup with the engine and then drilled for a roll pin to lock it in place and the sensor fitted once the engine is installed.

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The final job of the day was to measure up the alternator and work out the best way to fit it.  Unfortunately neither of the lugs allowed it to be fitted with shims and I decided that the best route was to reduce the thicker lug so after some hack sawing and filing I managed to get everything fitted nicely.  I've ordered an aftermarket adjuster for a 280Z that should be suitable and a new Gates 850mm V Belt.

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stephenh

Jon, if you refer to my build thread you'll see why you needed to grind metal from the bellhousing. It is because the bellhousing most commonly used is from a company which specialise in upgrading Morris 1000s, so their bellhousing is for attaching a type 9 'box to an 1100cc. BMC engine. It doesn't quite fit to the 1275cc. engine because the latter has a larger oil pump.

All part of putting together a kit car, I suppose, although it would be good if the build manual mentioned it!

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jonjh1964
34 minutes ago, stephenh said:

Jon, if you refer to my build thread you'll see why you needed to grind metal from the bellhousing. It is because the bellhousing most commonly used is from a company which specialise in upgrading Morris 1000s, so their bellhousing is for attaching a type 9 'box to an 1100cc. BMC engine. It doesn't quite fit to the 1275cc. engine because the latter has a larger oil pump.

All part of putting together a kit car, I suppose, although it would be good if the build manual mentioned it!

Stephen,

I'd read your blog and the frontline instructions showed the smaller Morris Minor pump - many thanks.

Jon

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jonjh1964

Ran into a problem with the bell housing,where it fits to the engine and the gearbox but not both.  The advice from Mark Walker was to box it up and he'd arrange to pick it up and Westfield will return it to the supplier to check the front to rear face machining - I think it's ~2mm out.

I spent the rest of Friday finishing the alternator mounts and then prepping the SEIW for Poole Quay and the Woolbridge Motor Club run on Sunday, so no further progress.

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