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Building my Eleven


robhume

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  • Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

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The next stage of my Eleven build is to swap the engine for a crossflow which will fit under the bonnet and I can lose the bulge. I have bought Mr T's 1700cc engine and will run it with the Weber

After what seems like ages, the car has gone off today to have the carbs set up and connect  the Nodiz. It's amazing how small the car is without the bodywork and the engine fits nicely unde

Another stage forward in the build. I have managed to retain the pivot action of the rear clam with a bit of modification and all the bodywork clears the roll over structure. The throttle bo

Posted Images

As expected a small parcel arrived with some nice bits to keep me busy.

DSC_0071.JPG

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"deep dish minilight" , sounds like something you would order at Pizza Express.

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Engine is back out to have the gearbox fitted with the new flywheel, clutch, hydraulics and bellhousing.

New wheels and tyres now fitted.

 

DSC_0075.JPG

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Scott Young
11 minutes ago, robhume said:

Engine is back out to have the gearbox fitted with the new flywheel, clutch, hydraulics and bellhousing.

New wheels and tyres now fitted.

 

DSC_0075.JPG

That is looking great, I love the look of the Minilights on that and the colour too, well smart. :t-up:

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Thanks for the kind comments, problem is, I'm almost frightened to touch at this stage and there is still a lot of work to do.

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Just a small update today .

I have assembled the concentric clutch release bearing onto the gearbox and attached

the hoses for the remote feed and bleed.

The bellhousing does not have an access, so I will have to form one for the hoses to go through.

I'm thinking it may be an idea to make the access large enough, so I can see if there are any leaks

and to allow the use of a small spanner.

DSC_0076.JPG

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Paul Aspden

It makes sense to have a large access hole in the bellhousing, just make sure you fit a cover as it's too easy to drop things in there when working on the car.....Take it from someone with experience.........

Car looks great and will be something different on the hills.

 

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18 hours ago, Paul Aspden said:

It makes sense to have a large access hole in the bellhousing, just make sure you fit a cover as it's too easy to drop things in there when working on the car.....Take it from someone with experience.........

Car looks great and will be something different on the hills.

 

or have an equally large hole at the bottom for things to drop out again :d

 

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robhume

After a bit of a struggle I finally managed to mate the engine and gearbox. Please excuse the

surrounding rubbish.

One slight problem that is apparent, providing the correct speedometer cable

for Midget speedo to the  gearbox, which is basically Quaife four speed type E 'box.

I believe that Speedograph-Richfield Ltd may be able to help.

The main problem is where does the drive comes from the gearbox.

There Is, what looks like a blanking plug on the left side of the 'box near the mounting

and if that is it, maybe some kind person could confirm please.

Next big job is to position the engine and make some mountings

DSC_0078.JPG

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I belive the speedo drive is blanked off on a Quaife dog box. An electronic speed is your best bet which means easy calibration as well

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stephenh

If the gearbox uses the same geared drive for the speedo cable as the type 9, which may be possible, then to fit it in an XI you would need a right angle drive adaptor and you would need a suitable speedo cable. Speedy Cables supplied the right angle drive for my type 9, and modified the end of my (Midget fittings) speedo cable. Cost with vat and postage was IIRC about £150.00, so you might be well advised to do as John suggests, and go electronic, with the signal taken either from a sensor nesr the front hub or from one end of the propshaft.

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robhume

John, Stephen, thanks for your replies.

Electronic speedo, that's the way to go.

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Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Hi, Rob,

I put a small bracket for a wheel sensor on the front offside hub of my Eleven (to allow me to run an electronic tripmeter).  I'll take a detail photograph this weekend and post it.  Not a difficult job and works fine.

Simon

 

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robhume

Thanks Simon for posting the photographs of your solution to the bonnet flutter.

Initially I would like to have had a completely closed floor in the engine compartment going as far forward as the

round tube used to hinge the bonnet but I think that is not going to be possible.

Even with a dry sump, the sump pan will still be below the bottom of the chassis rail.

It would be possible if I was prepared to mould a hump, (maybe not the best way to describe it), in the bonnet, similar

to the Lotus 15? Doing that, would allow a flat floor and provide an opening to vent any air build up in the engine compartment.

Is it worth it, probably not, but I think a couple of vents carefully let into the bonnet would be good and also let some heat out.

Also another slight problem with the bonnet is the fact that if it is opened too much, it pops off the round tube the brackets pivot on,

so will either have to limit the amount the bonnet opens or put something round the bracket and the tube to keep it in place.

Just read you post about wheel sensor, thank you.

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