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ScooterTwo's Sport 250 build

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Well, I didn't get a chance to take the dash off over the weekend to have a look. Hopefully this weekend! We did however manage to run the car up to temp, with no leaks etc, and the fan kicks in at about the right temperature.

IVA paperwork is progressing, so we should be able to book in for the test soon.

One thing we have noticed: the car appears to be draining it's battery slightly sitting there in the garage. It struggled a little to start (leaving us swearing again..) until we plugged in a charger and left it for half an hour. No issues then. Anyone else noticed this? we're considering getting a battery disconnect, just to ensure that the battery isn't draining away between uses.

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Mines fine(famous last words!), usually connect a conditioner, but left it for a couple of weeks, and still had 12.6v present. Didn't try to start though!

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Yep, I'm in the same camp of the bat sitting on a conditioner, and would be keen to see the results Exitus?

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Hmn. Well, I'll see if it starts when I'm back on Sunday, and keep an eye on it!

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Thinking about it, I needed a slave battery to spin mine over initially. It soon freed off and started ok on its own battery. Don't know how many starts you've done, just a thought.

Its worth the effort though, took mine out for a run on Sunday with a mate in his Triking. Cars got plastered, but still induces big smiles :t-up:

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I know it might be a scary thing to suggest, but if you have a multi-meter and disconnected the POSITIVE from the battery and then put the meter in AMPS's mode and connected it in series (assuming your meter has a current connection for the leads)  that would show if there is a leak, probably in the milliamp range, but start with the meter in a high amp setting.

Did a quick google for a pic, and this is the closet I found, showing how to test a bulb, but I hope you get the idea?

I would not expect there to be any draw with a car in the off position, but TBH I've never tried it, I guess if you have a car alarm or something hard wired, this would influence it, for gods sake through don't try to start the car with a meter in circuit or there would be a big bang as a starter draws a hell of a current.

This might give you a clue if there is a current drain, or it could just be the battery.  I assume that the batter size in all WF's is just about big enough to start the car, with not much capacity to spare as that would be more weight

Just my 2p worth

2018-02-13_09-16-33.jpg

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Yea I did think that it very much depended on the battery. 

I had a similar problem with a conventional battery in a Renault Laguna that after having a  car phone kit commercially fitted lost its mind as it f-ucked with its computer brain, finally fixed with a new battery under warrintee, after being back to Renault 4 times.

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I have 'tested' my Westie on the standard Banner battery with the immobiliser ticking away for 3 weeks and started on the button. I do leave it on my Oxford optimiser usually, but wanted to test its longevity away from it.

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4 hours ago, AdgeC said:

Thinking about it, I needed a slave battery

That's a good point Adge. We've only turned it on a few times, and I suppose it's probably run no more than an hour in total. Last time I turned it on, it initially turned over slightly then stopped. I turned the ignition back off, then tried again and that time it did start. Almost as if the engine was a bit stiff; the initial attempt freed it slightly so it then started properly on the second attempt.

Bugman, good idea. Dad has a multimeter, so I'll give it a go. I've got the AIM dash to show the battery voltage too, so that should now show if it does drop off.

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One of my friends has a Monaro which doesn't always get driven very regularly and sometimes needs a boost to get started. He uses one of these, which amazingly is enough to kick-start a 6.0L V8 :t-up:

Obviously not needed here in the long run but in the meantime while the engine is still being run-in, I'd just get the car on charge before each start

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3 hours ago, Exitus said:

 I've got the AIM dash to show the battery voltage too, so that should now show if it does drop off.

Wow, that's impressive. Might be looking to pick your brains on that one. I've got it working, but far from understand it, me and computers rarely see eye to eye :p

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No problems, I'll certainly try to help! I've got a bit more fiddling with it to be sure it all works the way I want, but hopefully I'm nearly there. Got to say that I'm not all that fond of the race studio software - it's not all that easy to use!

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Had another play with the car over the weekend, looking at the battery etc.

Once again, the car refused to start first time, but looking at the dash, battery voltage was over 12 volts. There doesn't seem to be any sign of the battery draining itself. Once we connected it to a charger, it fired up happily. We then had another go up and down the close, as my brother was home and wanted a go, then left it running for an hour or so.

Happily, the fan kicks in at about 88 degrees, and has no problems keeping it at 90 overall. We had a few minor coolant leaks around the heater pipework, but managed to tighten up the joints without any trouble.

Overall we suspect that we've been having the same issue you did @AdgeC, and that it has been struggling to turn over due to the engine being a bit stiff. Running it for a few hours over the weekend seems to have helped, as Dad has now tried it a few times this week, and it's now starting first time. Fingers crossed it has now loosened up enough, as it would be embarrassing for it not to start during the IVA! 

The paperwork is now sorted, so we're looking to book a test in early march.

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