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Dav1d

Duratec 2.0 with KMS ecu probably runs too rich

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Dav1d

Last week I bought a Westfield with a 2.0 Duratec engine. This car was factory build in 2009.

The previous owner barely drove it and currenlty it has 14300 km (8885 miles) and always stored it inside. So I can say that it's an almost new car.

 

But I have the feeling that it is running way too rich: I have a very high fuel consumption, the car easily stalls and when I'm driving it doesn't feel like a

2.0 Duratec. There is also a lot of backfire in the exhaust, even in the lower rpm-band 2000-3500

 

I searched here on the forum and it seems that I'm not the only one with this problem:

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/75321-duratec-owners/

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/86191-anyone-with-kms-duratec/

 

OP's of the above topics also have a KMS ecu which was mapped in the Westfield factory and our cars are from the same period (2008-2010).

There is nothing wrong with KMS. Those are solid ecu's but I think something went wrong with the map.

 

 

Here are a few pictures:

 

I removed the sparks; Current brand is Champion S9YCC but I'm going to replace them with Autolite XP104

As you can see, sparks are very back/oily.

 

24805150176_f03521ec9f_c.jpg

 

I also found the location of the ECU (above the passenger's feet) 

It's a KMS MP25 http://kms.vankronenburg.nl/nl/producten/kms-ecus/mp25-management-ecu/

 

24805087116_68a3957fa1_c.jpg

 

I was already able to connect my laptop with the ecu and download the map. The software can be donwloaded for free from the manufacturer's website.

On the left of the ecu there is serial connection (you can hardly see it on the picture) and with a serial to USB cable I was able to make a connection. 

 

Gonna take a look at the map. I'm not an expert so I don't know if I can see something.

I'm def. not going to change anything

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stephenh

Be careful, I had a factory built duratec engined car, built in early 2008. When I wanted to have the ecu re-mapped I found that the ecu map was factory password protected. I had a bit of an arguement with the factory over this, because it meant that when I came to upgrade the engine the ecu would be unuseable. In the end. when the car came out of warranty, they re-set the password by effectively removing it, so we could then re-map it. That would have been in Feb/March of 2009, possibly before your car was built?

I'd be checking with the factory to see if your ecu is password protected.

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Kit Car Electronics

Hi David,

that looks more like the result of misfiring on all cylinders to me (more oily than just sooty) which could be ignition related. Once you have the new plugs fitted, let the engine warm up once and when cooled, remove the new plugs for a fresh look. Check all of your ground connections are clean, especially the ECU ones. Good luck

 

To add, exhaust backfiring is often due to exhaust air leaks, which can also cause rich running if you have a lambda sensor fitted, so check for that too.

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Dav1d

Hi David,

that looks more like the result of misfiring on all cylinders to me (more oily than just sooty) which could be ignition related. Once you have the new plugs fitted, let the engine warm up once and when cooled, remove the new plugs for a fresh look. Check all of your ground connections are clean, especially the ECU ones. Good luck

 

To add, exhaust backfiring is often due to exhaust air leaks, which can also cause rich running if you have a lambda sensor fitted, so check for that too.

 

Hey, thanks for the info.

I'll try what you suggest when the sparks arrive. Will be somewhere next week.

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Dav1d

Be careful, I had a factory built duratec engined car, built in early 2008. When I wanted to have the ecu re-mapped I found that the ecu map was factory password protected. I had a bit of an arguement with the factory over this, because it meant that when I came to upgrade the engine the ecu would be unuseable. In the end. when the car came out of warranty, they re-set the password by effectively removing it, so we could then re-map it. That would have been in Feb/March of 2009, possibly before your car was built?

I'd be checking with the factory to see if your ecu is password protected.

Indeed, I've read the topic where you mention about the pwd protected ecu.

My Westfield was ordered somewhere December 2008 and ready in April 2009.

 

In the mean time I was able to connect to the ecu and transfer the map to my laptop. Don't know if it is in read-only mode and that writing requires a pwd? 

Were you able to read the map, do you remember that?

 

There are a few example maps on the KMS website and one of them is called Ford Duratec Std. I took this map to compare with the one from my Westfield. I am fully aware that I can't use this map but

it can be a good starting reference.

 

One thing I noticed is the Fuel-Air ratio that can be controlled: Left is the Standard Duratec, right the Westfield

On normal load this should be around 14.5, on full load, full throttle 12.5

To read the diagram: The vertical lines (columns) represent the engine load over a range from 0-15. The horizontal lines (rows) contains the engine speed in rpm from 500 to 7500

 

As from engine load 6 all Fuel/Air-ratio fields have a value of zero! (I marked it with a red square)   :o

This might be a good starting point...

 

24741919091_ddaa6d07ca_h.jpg

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Kit Car Electronics

Very bizarre! Maybe the ECU memory has become corrupted?

 

Does it idle and drive ok at light pedal?

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Dav1d

Very bizarre! Maybe the ECU memory has become corrupted?

 

Does it idle and drive ok at light pedal?

 

 

I don't think the memory got corrupted. There are 2 other spreadsheets: Ignition and injection and they contain values that look somewhat simular as the Standard Duratec. map

Edit: In order to be sure it would be good to compare with another 2.0 Duratec with KMS ecu.

 

Once the engine is warm, the car stalls very easily but I think the throttle-sensor also isn't calibrated correctly. I have the feeling that I have to press the pedal like half an inch or so before it reacts.

Calibrating that sensor can also be done through the KMS ecu and should be very easy to do.( step 1: don't though the pedal and click OK to set it's inital position; Step 2: press pedal as far as you can, hold and click OK to set WOT)

 

At light pedal the car drives OK. I picked up the car last Sunday and because it was raining (and I'm new to this kind of car) I drove it very carefully; I nearly pressed the pedal and all went well.

Fuel consumption was also OK.

At some rare moments I pressed the pedal harder & deeper and then I heard the exhaust backfire a lot.

Last Tuesday it wasn't raining anymore so I took the car out to do some better 'testing', pressed the pedal a lot deeper and then I noticed a lot of backfire and an engine that didn't behave like a 2.0 Duratec.

 

When I look at the Fuel/Air-ratio map now then it makes sense because that's exactly how the car behaved.

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stephenh

I don't know how to re-map an ecu, mine was done by Troy at Northampton Motorsport.

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Dav1d
My plan is to give those zero A/F-values the same values as the standard Duratec map so that the car is driveable again. Then contact a tuning company with a rolling road and

get a decent tune.

I live in Belgium, that's a neighbour of the Netherlands where KMS is located so quite  a lot of tuning companies here support KMS ecu's.

 

I probably will go to MB Motorsport in the Netherlands. I think they used to be official Westfield reseller and they have a very good reputation.

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XTR2Turbo

presumably the target values are only important if you are running closed loop with a lambda boss at those sites.

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Dav1d

presumably the target values are only important if you are running closed loop with a lambda boss at those sites.

 

It has a Lambda sensor which is connected to the ECU.

I'm quite sure it's a Boss, I'll check tomorrow to be 100% sure.

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XTR2Turbo

Yes but is closed loop enabled?  If it is what %adjustment does the ecu allow?  Is there a table of closed loop compensation values?

 

As others have said don't tinker with ecu settings if not sure what you are doing.

 

Check obvious things first

 

throttle bodies balanced and all opening correctly

oil breather not blocked

new spark plugs

earth leads

fuel pressure

not over filled with oil

charging / battery voltage.

if sat for a while fresh fuel

all ecu plugs including temp connected properly. 

check all values look sensible on ecu (temp, throttle, rpm, volts) with engine running in live mode

 

ECUs don't tend to just change themselves

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Dav1d

Yes, in the application it's called 'Lambda Control On' and that is checked. Next to that is a button to open the table where those AF values can be entered.

There is also a checkbox 'Use Fault Detection' but that is unchecked. In here you can enter compensation values. 

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Ferry Ritstier

Hi Dav1d,

I had mine maped at kms in Geldrop. Best thing i ever did. Great service too. My advice is go to them.

I live in the Netherlands.

Ferry

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petzzii

Hi David,

I've had a simular issue with my 1.8 Zetec with MBE ecu when I've bought the car, also black smoke, and 5% CO at idle, it was a faulty oxygen sensor...the car had also 11000 miles when this happened...so maybe

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