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Ste H's Mega S2000 build thread


SteH
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I'm more impressed with the central heating radiator next to it ! its on my list of things to do in mine.

 

Envious of that too!

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I'm waking up every morning at the moment with a smile on my face knowing I've arrived. I am actually living the dream - central heating in the garage - does it get any better?!! :d

 

If you look closely there's actually 3 fire extinguishers in there - safety first! (My company actually sells them, so they weren't a purchase as such!)

 

Quick question on storing the body work. I've put the smaller pieces in the loft at the moment and the larger pieces are outside in the shed. Am I asking for trouble with it out in the shed? Any tips? 

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Remove all traces of tape/adhesive, don't wrap in plastic, especially bubble wrap. Make sure all panels are well supported and braced - grp sort of "moves"/"creeps" and can distort over time if not held in place. To be fair, it shouldn't be as bad over winter, heat makes it worse. FW bodywork shouldn't be as bad to fit once a bit more cured than ZK, but bear in mind, the longer it's left, the more the grp will cure and the less green it is. It will get a lot less flexible after a few months, if you need to pull and twist to get it fitted. Fortunately, with FW bodywork, there's less bending and twisting!

Try and protect from damp and any frost if you can.

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I'm more impressed with the central heating radiator next to it ! its on my list of things to do in mine.

 

Underfloor heating..............................   :o  :o

 

Now that would be ace

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Where did you get the matting for the garage floor if you don't mind me asking?

 

Looked as various mats but that looks far better than anything I've seen (all seem to look too soft but that looks a bit more durable.

 

Good luck with the build by the way.

 

Dave

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Where did you get the matting for the garage floor if you don't mind me asking?

 

Looked as various mats but that looks far better than anything I've seen (all seem to look too soft but that looks a bit more durable.

 

Good luck with the build by the way.

 

Dave

 

The flooring is this stuff http://shop.ecotileflooring.com/Ecotile/Ecotile-7mm 

 

Really impressed with it. It's softer and warmer than a concrete floor and is happy with trolley jacks, engine stand etc on it. The engine stand does put little indents in it, but they come out again a short time after moving it. It's not cheap though, I dropped on a batch that Screwfix were selling off cheap(er).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I'd just post a few pictures of some parts which might be of interest...,

 

Here's the Mazda LSD. It's a brand new unit not recon, designed for the NC MX-5. 3.727:1 ratio. I'm guessing manufactured in the UK by these guys http://www.ptp-oe.co.uk/shop/1_7/1/mazda_product_information/mazda_lsd__non_lsd_differential.htm?

 

From the website "The LSD is better referred to as a Super-LSD because of its low torque bias ratio (2.0:1), utilising torque-sensing; this style of differential has been adopted to enhance all round performance and improved driving stability."

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and the prop...

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Sport Turbo seats trimmed in white to match the car

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The hubs, uprights, brake calipers, discs and pads are provided fully assembled. I was surprised about this as it strikes me as a reasonably easy and enjoyable item to assemble. These are really nice items though, especially compared to other manufacturers who use old Sierra hubs etc. I believe these items are all from Hi-Spec but branded Westfield. The only thing that could do with sorting on these is to have the front and rear Westfield logos matching!

Here's the front "Race spec"

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And the rears

IMG_4197.thumb.jpg.494935aa10bc72b60bddb0c89b464952.jpg

 

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So here's some pics of the chassis, upside down ready to get started!

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On the pic below you can see two brackets closest to the tunnel. These are for the bottom mount for the Mazda diff.

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On this pic you can see the diff top mount brackets. Exactly how the diff mounts should become clear once the mounting brackets are delivered. These are the only parts missing from the kit as far as I can tell.

IMG_4214.thumb.jpg.0000c51f6539c58a74820b596df9a8e8.jpg

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So over the last week the build has actually started! I've really only managed to grab the odd hour in an evening and most of the day yesterday. I decided to try and drill as many holes in the chassis as possible before actually starting to fit anything, really just to try and get the worst of the swarf out of the way. So I've dry fitted most of the panels and drilled holes for the wiring loom fixing points.

With the chassis upside down I tackled the floor panels first. Just a couple of bits to trim off the corners of the panels so that they fit around the welds and sit nice and flat.

I decided to get some Cleco fastners as others have raved about them, and I have to say that they are great. They really ensure that once you have a couple of holes drilled the panel just doesn't move around at all while you're drilling the remaining holes, like it might just using clamps.

Here's the floor panels in place. These panels only fit one way round.

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Next the battery tray panel. This has a cutout on one side of it but can go on either way up because the cutout is for a different model which has a towing eye fitted.

IMG_4250.thumb.jpg.b150bc9bbbedea95ef639a3864b9f1b2.jpg

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Next I figured out the route for the chassis wiring loom and marked it up with masking tape. Not the easiest thing to do especially with the chassis upside down! It's definitely easier to drill the holes for the fixings with the chassis upside down though.

Remember all of these pics are with the chassis upside down!

Starting at the front, the loom needs a couple of fixings right on the front face of the chassis to keep the loom away from the brake lines.

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While not shown in the manual, it looks to me that it will be wise to have fixings all round the engine bay.

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Then looking into the tunnel the loom goes along the under side of the top tube on the off side. Fixings are also needed in the small rectangular area above where the bell housing will sit. This is to tie some connectors up out of the way.

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The loom then goes the full length of the tunnel on the off side and emerges into the diff area.

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On the pic below I actually have the masking tape in the wrong place on the tube that runs front to back of the car along side the diff. Here the loom should be on the outer edge of the tube, not the under side.

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Across the back of the diff cage...

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And finally out to the rear near side of the car.

IMG_4259.thumb.jpg.a50b5fa04924cb48523d4a145c9382af.jpg

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After drilling the holes for the loom fixings I flipped the chassis over and dry fitted the tunnel side panels. The long panels fitted great requiring no trimming, but both the small passenger side ali panel and the GRP panel with the foot rest needed a bit of trimming.

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Then it was on to the outer side panels which were very straight forward apart from having to cut 4 holes for the full cage mounting points which poke through the panel. I ended up using a 27.5mm bolt-up type hole punch that I happened to have lying around as was about the right size.

 

 

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