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Ste H's Mega S2000 build thread


SteH
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Wot Stu said!

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I'm sorry for the thread hi-jack. I searched for the older dedicated ITB thread but can't find it.........

 

Where did people end up locating the fuel pressure regulator? I assume it can be some distance away from the fuel rail without causing an issue?

 

 

dave

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You can either reshape and use the original bracket or fabricate your own.

Everyone mounts it here.

 

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Cool - it looks like you must be having the fuel enter the rail at the front and exit at the rear then. Is that right?

 

dave

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Cool - it looks like you must be having the fuel enter the rail at the front and exit at the rear then. Is that right?

 

dave

Correct.

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  • 2 weeks later...

S2000 Vehicle Speed Sensor with the Race Technology Dash2

 

I've been pondering for a while whether I could use the S2000 gearbox mounted speed sensor with the Dash2 rather than the supplied hub mount sensor. Given the reports of variable results from the hub sensor I decided to give it a go.

 

This is the sensor

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The S2000 sensor reads from a 40 tooth gear in the gearbox and gives a pulse out from every tooth. This gear is itself geared by 1.16 to the output of the gearbox, so for one complete rotation of the output/prop shaft the sensor will give 40 x 1.16=46.4 pulses.

I found this information by Googling, but I've physically confirmed that it is correct by removing the sensor and counting the teeth while I rotated the output through one complete rotation.

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For the Dash2 speedo to work you need to tell it how many pulses per mile to expect, so for my car I have calculated this as follows…

 

Tyres are 205/50/15, so have a circumference of 184.097cm

 

1 mile = 160934cm, so the wheel will rotate 160934 / 184.097 = 874.179 times per mile

 

My diff ratio (if I ever get to fit it) is 3.727, so the prop shaft will rotate 874.179 x 3.727 =  3258.065 times per mile

 

Therefore the sensor will produce 46.4 x 3258.065 = 151,174.2 pulses per mile.

 

Here lies a problem. The Dash2 can only handle a maximum of 12,000 pulses per mile, so I need a way of reducing the figure produced by the sensor. Enter the RaceTechnology VRS signal conditioner / pulse divider! A bargain at just £96 delivered!

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This is designed for conditioning noisy signals from the likes of ABS sensors, but can also just divide the number of pulses. The info says that they can set it to divide by anything from 2-255, but when I ordered it it turned out that the maximum they could set it to is 32.

So 151,174.2 / 32 = 4724 pulses per mile which should be fine for the Dash2.

 

From an electrical point of view, the Honda sensor has 3 connection pins. I found the connector for it amongst the remains of the engine wiring loom from the S2000.

 

This is the connector required

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The three wires are

 

Yellow/blue – 5v Supply

Blue/White – Signal

Yellow/Brown – 0v

 

The 5v supply could come from the 5v reference output on the Dash2, but to be sure I’m not overloading that, I’m going to fit a separate 12v to 5v converter. Reading the S2000 service manual it suggests that the signal output is also 5v, and it may well end up as that when connected to the rest of the S2000 electronics, however I’ve found that the signal I get is about 2.3v. This isn’t a problem as the pulse divider will work with a signal input as low as 1.8v. The pulse divider requires a 12v supply and then gives 5v pulses out. This output connects straight to the wheel speed input of the Dash2.

 

I’ve now wired all this up and it seems to work quite well. I can’t test it at proper speeds yet as I’m not in a position to be able to run the engine. What I have done is assume that the starter turns the engine over at about 250rpm. This is obviously 10 times slower than if the engine was running at 2500 rpm. So I’ve entered the pulses per mile figure into the Dash2 at 4724 / 10 = 472. Then I’ve turn the engine over on the starter with different gears engaged and found that the speed displayed on the display is approximately what I would expect in each gear at 2500 rpm - magic!

 

Here’s a quick video of the test on the starter in 1st, 3rd and 6th.

 

 

 

The sensor itself is mounted in the gearbox about 4" above the drain plug.

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Fantastic work!

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This is NOT a mirage! The Mazda diff brackets have finally arrived!

 

These are the brackets, bottom one on the left top one on the right.

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I've just had a dry fit of them to check that they fit - and thankfully they do.

 

Installation is a case of bolt the bottom bracket to the chassis, lower the diff down from above onto the bottom bracket and bolt it on loosely from below. Put the bolts in the front mounts of the top bracket then bolt the bracket down loosely onto the diff. Then put the bolts in the rear mounts of the top bracket. This needed a little bit of levering to get the bolts in, but they do go in. Finally tighten everything up. Not got any torque settings for this so will have to make an educated guess.

 

One point to note is the the diff as delivered has studs in all of the mounting holes which need to be removed as bolts are provided with the brackets to fix it all together.

 

Here's some more pics....

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  • 1 month later...

No updates for a while, work, holidays, kids all getting in the way. I have managed to do a few bits so will try and get them updated here….

 

Further to the dry fit of the diff, I consulted with Mark Walker re torque settings for all of the relevant bolts. Mark also advised that thread lock is required on all of the bolts that go into the diff case. His advice was…

Upper allen bolts to diff casing x 4 - 40 ft/lbs with locktight applied to threads

Lower mounting bolts to diff casing x 2 45 ft/lbs with locktight applied

7/16" mounting bolts and nyloc nuts, upper frame rear to chassis and lower frame to chassis x 4 30 ft/lbs

M12 upper forward clevis mount x 2 35 ft/lbs”

 

I found it best to get all of the bolts in and done up tight, then remove one at a time to apply thread lock and torque up. Because you have to wrestle the diff into the mounts, it would be a nightmare to try and apply thread lock / torque up as you go.

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Next I fitted the half shafts. First the “stub/adaptor” shafts need to be pushed into the diff. I found an MX5 manual on the web which includes some detail on this. It’s available here http://www.mellens.net/mazda/Mazda-Miata-2008-2009/index.html choosing the Differential link. Page 13 shows that there is a clip required on each adaptor, with a clever part number of “CLIP”! These clips were supplied in a bag with the diff. With the clips in place it took a reasonable shove with a rubber mallet to get them to engage in the diff. The clip basically just stops the shaft pulling out and breaking the oil seal. 

 

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Next bolted the half shafts on to the adapters, thread locked and torqued up as per the Westfield manual.

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Then on with fitting the wishbones and fuel tank mounting frame. All nuts and bolts left relatively loose ready for torquing up once it’s on the ground.

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Looking good Ste.

It still amazes me that the factory just dont update files with the torque settings etc as they go along. It would make their lives so much easier than everyone calling them up, listening to some drivel on buying a Westfield , answering the phones, finding the paperwork and advising on what to do. Very strange how they are not doing this. It must waste so much time that could be spent much wiser on other things. 

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Then the rear uprights and dampers went on. Nothing difficult and quite satisfying just bolting things together! Just had to consult various sources to figure out where each of the different size washers need to go. Also eventually realised that with the Protech shocks, washers are not fitted within the upper mounts.

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Just one slight mishap with the adjustable height bar stool from the kitchen I used to take the weight of the upright where one of the wheel studs punctured a hole in the vinyl cushion – ooops! When the wife discovered the hole, she suggested one of the kids must have done it – who am I to argue :t-up:  So I now have a permanent holder-uperer for the garage!

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