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Hayabusa Turbo de/rebuild diary


gee_fin

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Well, you can only stay away so long... I had sold my previous Westfield (R1 engined) many moons ago after a change in the rallying regulations in Barbados rendered it uncompetitive (minimum weight an

The road wheels came back from being painted today. I know coloured bands might not be to everyone's taste, but I just felt it needed it to break up the black a little...       I like 'em, but

Well, finally accomplished what we set out to (initially) do. Fastest 2WD on the island. At the drags yesterday recorded a 7.3s pass (1/8th mile), taking the 2WD record. Not without it's ups and downs

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gee_fin

A long weekend of doing the best to tidy up wiring allowed us to effectively finish it all.

 

late_night_1.jpg

 

wiring_1.jpg

 

It's by no means perfect, but at least now we know the loom and it's a fair bit tidier/neater in the engine bay. Ultimately, as said, I'll still want it redone but it'll do for now.

 

engine_bay_2.jpg

 

engine_bay_1.jpg

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gee_fin

Then that glorious moment, primed oil until pressure, connect wiring for fuel pumps, swing and boom - LIFE!

 

First go.

 

Most happy...

 

For now, I'm only posting the build pics here, keeping them off Facebook and the public eye (over here) until the car is officially launched. So, typically cryptic video of the first start at :-

 

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152694351865823&pnref=story

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Cockpit effectively finished, all gauges/switches mounted, added some small LEDs to the ignition side switches.

 

cockpit_1.jpg

 

cockpit_2.jpg

 

cockpit_3.jpg

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gee_fin

Took the car to get the manifold bent out slightly to accommodate the larger silencer. Ideally I would have liked it a little further from the bodywork (the gap is only about 15mm), but we'll see for now.

silencer_1.jpg

 

Will sort out a mount for that later.

 

First time back on the road and got totally soaked on the tow to and from the muffler centre (it's 5mins) away... cycle wings were off so just coated me and the car.

 

tow_1.jpg

 

tow_2.jpg

 

cat_shade_1.jpg

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gee_fin

Had some clear vinyl paint protection added to the arches, sides and leading cage edges...

 

paint_protect_1.jpg

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Firing up and giving some revs with the silencer now on, getting some fair old aeration/bubbles in the oil.

 

oil_1.jpg

 

Little concerning, the dry sump tank was a little full, I'm wondering if this would do it?

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Oh, and after this mad push (had two 4am morning finishes last week), I'm emailed to be told the drag race (where we were planning on debuting the car) this weekend (8th March) has been cancelled as the timing gear broken by the Race of Champions still hasn't arrived/been replaced! Arhghghghghh....

 

...well, just means we can now relax a little and take our time sorting the remaining 20 or so things on the checklist. Still plan to have it road legal and testing by the weekend...

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

It doesn't look like the D's tank was able to do much of a job de-aerating the oil. It should be entering high up at a tangent, you can see the connection in one of the engine bay pics, then swirl around and around the tank working its way down, usually to a baffle plate about a third of the way down, or so, through which it falls, ready to be drawn out from the bottom of the tank.

 

If the tank's too full to give room for the oil to swirl round at speed, then the oil and air don't get separated very well. To be fair, some engines also seem to need more than the average amount of steppe ration, too.

 

If the action of the tank is all good, then it may be that you've got excessive air getting into the oil in the first place. (Got to say, I don't think I've seen oil that badly aerated before, but then I'm not familiar with bike engines!)

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gee_fin

I think it may have been my bad, overfilling - bit rusty and all. Need to check concretely what level the dry sump tank should be filled to. Above/below which plate with engine off/running. Have emailed Steve for that concrete confirmation! :) I had in my head it should be just above the middle plate with engine off. Now thinking it might be just above the middle plate with engine running...

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

It's usually engine running/oil warm. Typically either top plate - just below, or middle plate - just above, but different tanks need filling to different levels, so it's worth the double check!

 

(For anyone not used to dry sumped systems, when the engines stopped and the pump isn't running, oil in the dry sump tanks can steadily work its way back down through the pump and into the bottom of the engine, until the level in the tank and engine are at the same height! If you fill the tank to a running oil level at this point, you're substantially overfilling it. In which case, not only wont the ds tank be able to do a proper job of de-aeration, but there's a good chance the crank will be thrashing through oil in the bottom of the engine too, which will really whip the air into it!)

 

Its a real easy mistake to  make though, as filling them can be a bit counterintuitive...

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Young Pretender

Looks great Gee.  Have you painted the airbox plenum and if so what sort of paint did you use?

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XTR2Turbo

Make sure you have none of the forged and drilled fittings in the oil lines.  They can add air

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

Make sure you have none of the forged and drilled fittings in the oil lines.  They can add air

 

Worse still, they can cause a big pressure drop across the fitting. You really should use swept fittings only when plumbing a DS system.

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