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Valentinik's Duratec Build


Valentinik
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I took some of the panels to the powder coaters on thursday and got them back yesterday. I got a couple of hours in the garage this afternoon so got them fitted:

IMG_0811_zpsol4wuqll.jpg

 

I've still got the front to rear brake pipe to attach and the fuel pipes to bend and attach and then i can turn the chassis over for the last time. When i've done that i can get on with bolting some bits on.

 

Mike

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Got some more bits done today, i started with attaching the front to rear brake pipe:

IMG_0812_zpssdytwfuj.jpg

 

The factory mounted the gearbox in the chassis as they do on the sport turbo (they use this gearbox) due to this, clearance for the 2 fuel pipes was very tight, so i wasn't able to mount them as per the manual. I had to fit the gearbox as clearance is quite tight in some places. Here you can see how it mounts:

 

IMG_0813_zpso9ikp8w0.jpg

 

IMG_0816_zpsotdyrh5p.jpg

 

I also secured the 2 front brake pipes

IMG_0815_zpskh9njlt2.jpg

 

Mike

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I wasn't too keen on the way the fuel line route would take around the front of the footwell. I decided to cut them short and finish them just at the front of the tunnel with some -6 AN fittings. I will then mount the adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the footwell panel where the original route for the lines will be, and run a short length of hose to it.

 

Here is where/how i finished them. 
IMG_0822_zps5mcl432x.jpg

 

My wiring loom arrived today so i can make a start on that, i have some loom saddles coming, so i'm hoping to get it in place within the next week or so.

 

Mike

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My fuel line P clips arrived today so, I finished off mounting them tonight.

 

IMG_0825_zpswym4fhwe.jpg

 

IMG_0826_zpsbw1swr9t.jpg

 

Gearbox back in to check clearance, at the closest point there is around 5mm clearance. This is around the middle of the gearbox, so hopefully there won't be too much movement there.

 

IMG_0827_zpsn3xm9dha.jpg

 

Mike

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All the wiring loom saddles are now riveted in, so all being well should be able to fit the wiring loom this week.

 

Question, i started looking at the pedals and what i've been supplied, I've only been supplied one yoke so i need another of those, however the question i have: Is the yoke i've been supplied correct? Do the legs of the pedal need to be compressed inside the yoke, or is one of the parts incorrect?

 

 

IMG_0842_zpsb2j4x1iy.jpg

 

IMG_0843_zpsyitbfuek.jpg

 

Thanks

Mike

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My brake and clutch pedals (both hydraulic) have the pivot point right at the bottom on my floor mounted pedal box

 

The metal above this pivot point is only 1 piece thick And the yoke slides over

 

Is that a cable operated clutch pedal you have as the pivot point would created a pulling action wouldn't it?

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The clevice in the picture is normally supplied for the brake pedal, not the clutch pedal. However, the clutch pedal shown is for a cable operated type, not hydraulic, so doesn't actually use a clevice. That's why it has the fork at the bottom, ready for a cable end plus grub screw to be threaded through.

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Thanks for the reply guys, i was looking at the wrong part of the pedal.  :blush:

 

The clutch pedal is a cable type but should be hydraulic for the mx5 slave cylinder so i will need to get that replaced (along with a few other things) by westfield. I presume the cable and hydraulic pedals mount to the chassis in the same way?

 

Thanks

Mike

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Too slow, Darve got there first!

 

Yes, the pivot point on the clutch above is high, while the hydraulic version has a pivot point at floor level, just like the brake pedal. The (hydraulic) clutches have generally still been using the older style pressed steel clevices, while the factory moved over to the stronger billet type for the more heavily loaded brake pedal. (No reason why you shouldn't use the billet type on the clutch too, though).

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Ish! The arrangement of bolts and sleeves is the same, but as said, the hydraulic pivot is at floor level, while the cable pivot, as shown in your pic is a quarter or so of the way up.

 

its why the clutch has that odd multi drilled mounting point in the car, so both types of pedal will fit.

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I was gonna say about using a billet style clevis on the clutch pedal as well. The pressed steel one has always seemed a bit "flimsy" to me

 

It's when you see the steel one installed on the brake pedal you need to worry  :o

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Thank you for the reply Dave, I should have asked the question differently, i never phrased it very well. Will the hydraulic pedal fit the pedal mount on the chassis, without the chassis mount being modified?

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