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Valentinik's Duratec Build


Valentinik
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Saw this one Ebay and thought it was yours, good luck with sale. 

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Wow, a surprise indeed! good luck with the sale.

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3 hours ago, Geoffrey (Buttercup) - North Yorkshire AO said:

Wow, that’s come as a surprise.

Car looks brilliant and good luck with the sale.

Yes well done on the completion Mike,

Good luck with the sale.:yes:

 

 

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  • 10 months later...

For those who followed this build thread, I’d like to introduce myself as the lucky one who bought the car last year, the build continues under new ownership!

 

Its fair to say Mike is very skilled and his work was to a very high standard using mostly new parts, but even so, ownership to date has been fairly involved to say the least, which I imagine is fairly typical.

 

So a brief(?!) round up of work to date, starting with shake down issues!

 

The exhaust fell off on the journey home, the joint failed where it was clamped between catalytic converter and the silencer... it bounced along at around head height beside the car (at motorway speeds!) and tore the wiring from the O2 sensor. It turned out the main silencer wasn’t being gripped by the metal strap, so some soldering and a motorbike silicone strap liner and its all now held in place nicely!

 

There have also been some leaks, a fuel leak at the tank joint, sorted by a Caterham specialist by using a banjo joint instead of the Westfield fitting, there was another fairly massive fuel leak when the high pressure hose came off the fuel pressure regulator, that luckily just needed tightening!

 

A heavy oil leak was fixed by a new oil filter as the rubber seal looked like it had been snagged on fitting, I treated her to some fresh oil whilst I was at it.

 

The cooling system was leaking from an additional outlet that had been drilled into the expansion tank, a new tank and revised layout has stopped the leak, whilst I was there I added a slightly deeper coolex radiator to help keep temperatures down.

 

The ride height has been raised slightly as there was evidence there had been contact between rear arches and tyres, I have added some slightly stiffer rear springs together with some bump stops to ensure no contact again.

 

The steering was very heavy and would lock in place around corners with no self-centring of the steering wheel. If you took your hands off on a roundabout it would keep going round! I’ve greased the rubber bushes in the steering column and it has improved massively, but I think there may be further improvement to be made.

 

I’ve also added an oil catch tank and diff breather, however the diff (although bought new when built) still seems to be leaking.

 

Next jobs to do:

 

The front cycle wings contact the body at full lock, they appear to be mounted quite far back and angled towards the body, so I wonder if best to try and fit rack limiters or just try to bend the carriers away?

 

The rear wheels both have play, an identical amount both sides, the hub nuts are tight as hell so don’t think the play could be removed by tightening further (again new hubs and bearings) could something be missing or anything I should be looking for?

 

Finally are there any known weaknesses or likely culprits for the leaky diff? Can’t easily spot where it’s coming from but haven’t fully investigated yet.

 

Other than the issues above (which I’m enjoying solving) I’m absolutely loving Westfield ownership and have just done my first track day at Bedford.

 

Sorry for the long thread and hope it’s okay to continue Mike’s build to keep the development of the build in one place.

 

I hope to get out and meet some fellow members soon!

 

Ben

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:ww:

 

I always thought that was such a lovely looking car. You must be very pleased.

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When you say hub nuts are tight, how tight? They need torqueing to 240 lbs ft. I had slight play right up until final torque and then they were solid. 

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14 minutes ago, Geoffrey Carter (Buttercup) said:

:ww:

 

I always thought that was such a lovely looking car. You must be very pleased.


Thanks for the welcome, I fell for it the second I saw it! I was originally looking at much cheaper / older cars, but it ticked all the boxes!

 

9 minutes ago, Steve (sdh2903) said:

When you say hub nuts are tight, how tight? They need torqueing to 240 lbs ft. I had slight play right up until final torque and then they were solid. 

 

Thanks, I’ve not had the torque wrench on it yet, but the people who did the geo tried to tighten them and the play is still there. I’ve lifted the wheel with a 24” bar pulling upwards and can’t stop it from rolling even in gear and handbrake on when pulling sideways! Will have a go with the impact wrench if no chance of damage?

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Best to try and get a torque wrench and have someone with the foot on the brakes.

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Just to clarify, it's the hub nut which needs 240 rather than the wheel nuts?

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1 hour ago, Nick Mace said:

Just to clarify, it's the hub nut which needs 240 rather than the wheel nuts?

Yes! Wheel nuts are more like 65ftlb 😁

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OK. I was worried the OP was tightening the wheel nuts because of the reference to “lifting the wheel”...

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Thanks all, have got hold of a much bigger torque wrench and will plead with my wife to come and stand on the brakes whilst I try and muster enough strength for the 240 lbs/ft required!

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Aye they’re damn tight the rear hub nuts. 
 

The bearings aren’t the adjustable type like the fronts though, so once up to the correct tightness, if that hasn’t sorted it, tightening further shouldn’t make any difference.

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