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Master cylinder replacment


rbrincat

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rbrincat

Hi guys,

 

My standard 0.7" Girling tandem master cylinder decided to go on early retirement. Now I have 3 options.

 

1. Replace it with another new Girling mc which I wouldn't like to do.

2. Replace it with the AP tandem mc but although I've read that it is better than the Girling one, IMO it is still very expensive. 

3. Upgrade to a twin mc with balance bar. Seems to work out cheaper or the same price as as the AP tandem mc. 

 

What do you guys suggest and why?

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Hornet600

I would say it depends on what you use the car for. The balance bar set up allows you to adjusted the braking characteristics of your car to suit it and your driving. If you have no need to do this and were happy with the brakes before, then go the simple and cheapest route.

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Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

The balance bar set up adds complexity, both when it comes to the install, and setup/adjustment. Get either wrong, and things get very interesting, very quickly.

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Option 4 would be to have it refurbished, I’ve just had a quote for my 0.7 Girling MC from pastparts.co.uk

 

 

Your unit we have managed to identify by the pictures

 

To recondition the unit in the picture the price will be £116.73+ vat. The unit will take approx 10 days and carriage back to you will be £8.50+ vat

 

All the best  Julie

 

HTH.

 

R

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SootySport

Might just as well buy a new one for that price.   If you go for the AP version you will loose the feel of the  standard Girling MC, the pedal will feel a lot harder and pedal travel is a lot less.  Maybe that is what you want though.

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Scott Young

Just a quickie here - please bear in mind that our friend rbrincat lives in Malta, and it will therefore be critical to get it right first time to possibly save him wasted money and postal charges! :)

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Terryathome

You don't say what's gone wrong with your MC? Is it that it just needs new seals which are quite easy and cheap to do.

 

Terry

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rbrincat

Hi all,

 

sorry for not answering before but was quite busy with other stuff. Originally I wanted to change the oil because it was 5 years old and since I was changing the oil I decided to go from DOT4 to DOT4 racing. I mostly use it for road driving but even now an again I drive up to Sicily for a time attack weekend. I started by emptying the whole system from the oil and then I refilled it with the new oil. I had preferred not to empty the braking system but that's what a lot of people suggested to do since I has changing oil type.

 

The problems stated when I came to refill the system. After bleeding it, I couldn't get any pressure at all and I had to pump several times until I got some pressure but still the pedal was way down compared to the usual. Also, when pumping, I could see oil being pumped back into the oil reservoir so decided to remove the mc to have a look. Even though the seals didn't look worn out I got a new set of seals locally (with great difficulty). This still didn't work out so got the mc back off the car and did a better inspection of the bore. Then I noticed it had some light pitting so I got a honing tool and managed to remove most of the pitting marks. Now it looks much better and the seals seem to work fine.

 

Now I have to figure out how to remove all the air from the braking system because it seems that after bleeding using an easybleed kit, I still have some air trapped somewhere. On the 1st pump I get no pressure but after a couple the pedal becomes firm and stays there even if I partially reduce the pressure. Leave it stand for a few seconds and there you go again.  

 

And my time attack weekend also goes away with the pressure :(

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Rush Motorsport

I've got a similar problem, changed the master cylinder, bled it all out but the pedal is giving very little pressure so there is still air in there somewhere.

very annoying!

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Hornet600

Guys, the new self bleeders that work with vacuum rather than pressure are more efficient at removing air trapped. They basically sook the fluid through under vacuum. Ideal on a brake bias system as when your press your pedal you can be pressurising the one system and not removing the air in the other. Cheers

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rbrincat

Thanks. I was thinking of buying one of those kits because I saw them on youtube and they seem very easy to use.

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rbrincat

Guys, the new self bleeders that work with vacuum rather than pressure are more efficient at removing air trapped. They basically sook the fluid through under vacuum. Ideal on a brake bias system as when your press your pedal you can be pressurising the one system and not removing the air in the other. Cheers

Are you referring to the one with the hand pump to create vacuum or the ones with the syringes?

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Hornet600

Mines has an air feed from my compressor that blows through a Venturi causing a constant vacuum in the pot. I'm on holiday in Spain so can't send a photo of the box

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rbrincat

OK. Thanks. I know which one you're referring to. I've seen them on YouTube.

 

Enjoy the holiday. 

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