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Found 7 results

  1. Mark (smokey mow)

    Spot the Difference – Bodywork

    How to tell the difference between a Narrow Body and a Wide Body If you don’t have a tape measure to hand then the two most visual differences between a narrow and wide body car are around the rear lights and also the shoulder panel next to the seat. Starting with the shoulder panel, a narrow car will have a flat, vertical internal panel next to your shoulder. On a wide body car the GRP tub is extended into the cockpit to create a scalloped or chamfered panel to give more shoulder room. These first two pictures show an example of the shoulder panel on a narrow bodied car. Whilst on a Wide body car, the first of these pictures shows the chamfered tub used with ZK bodywork, whist the second shows the scallop of the earlier “kit” wide bodywork. The second method of telling the difference between a wide an narrow is the shape of the bdy tub around the rear lights. The wide body chassis was available with either fixed or detachable rear arches; whist the narrow was only available with fixed rear aches. Therefore if the car has detachable arches, which can be seen with a join line between the tub and arch as in the picture below then it will be a wide body car. If the car has fixed arches then it could be either a wide or a narrow. These first two pictures show examples of wide body Westfield’s. Note how the rear lights are partially recessed into the tub on their inside edge in a square recess. On a narrow however the arches are slightly wider and the arch has a smooth contour into the main body with no recess for the lamp. Note: I am aware that there is also some wide body tubs they may have rear arches similar to the narrow and therefore it is wise to also check the shape of the shoulder panel also to help with identification.
  2. hu7ch

    Xtr2 spare bracket

    Hi so I bought the xtr2 in the picture below just after Christmas, it came needing a lot of putting back together and it's about ready to go for its MOT I have 1 bracket left and can't figure out where it goes, it looks like it could be a bodywork support from somewhere. Does anyone have a idea ?
  3. Looking for V8 bonnet and nosecone in red if possible but not too important.
  4. gary marsh

    Dooh - chassis straightening

    Following an overenthusiastic exit from Gerrards at Mallory Park on Friday I have an embarrassingly bent front nearside. Putting aside the replaceable bits, my main issue is a slightly bent chassis; the nearside top rail is bent a couple of centimetres out of true between about half way along the engine bay (it is a 1991 SEiW which has a diagonal brace running forward to that point) and the front rail. The top front rail accordingly has a slight bow in it but the offside looks fine. No sign of any cracks in tubes or welds. Does anyone have experience of getting a chassis straightened rather than going back to the factory for a new front frame? I am in the Birmingham area. Regards Gary
  5. chrisando

    Westfield decals

    Anyone have any links / contacts for obtaining Westfield decals? I'm sure I've seen something posted sometime ago but the link had expired. Thinking in particular about the one that goes at the back where the spare wheel normally is. Ta.
  6. Soon for Ebay but may be open to sensible offers Damaged but usable bodywork, all genuine Westfield ZK baodywork in black gel coat Black ZK style bodywork, (does not include fron Arches or Scuttle so not a full set) - this bodywork was on my car for 8 years, and has taken the odd knock - some trackdays, and some silly nkocks getting it on the traler etc, as a track focused car my intention was to live with it and then replace if I ever sold the car, which I did earlier in the year Nosecone - heavy crazing to the front (some may recall my nkock on the tryewall during the spped series at 3 sisters back in 2006, as a Ducted nose type this originally had the grill system moulded into the design 9rather than mesh) but the timing strut punched through these so they got cut out with the dremel and converted to mesh front. The star crazing / cracks are pretty heavy - still got good structural strentgh and the crazing is only really seen once your within a few feet. Front Splitter - inc on the nosecone - this suffered damage when I did a bit of grass cutting at the ESCC trackday at Mallory, the engine / nose area had a flat floor plat system wich had quck release fixings into the splitter, this caught on the grass and ripped the fixings out along the splitter Main Tub - no structurla damage or shunts but has the odd scuff and some pebble dashing where where it curls out to meet the rear arch, this is low down so does not really stand out. The side pods were neatly cut and flared out, this cut is in line with the bonnet - scuttle line so looks right. The rear valance has holes for air vents (stops the old parachute effect of trapped air. doulble sided stickyback needs removing from old reg plate area. rear Arch- nearside - got it caughts on the edge of the trailer which reulted in it cracking mid way along, needs some fibreglass matting at the back to re-strengthen and could then be painted Rear arch - off side - dmaged to front / low down area where some road debbris hit it expsoing the internal fibreglass, no loss in overall structural strentgh,may gel coat repair or fill & paint Bonnett - unmarked & good condition (not splitting at the moment) Photo's are in the WSCC Gallery and I can email higher res copies for any one interested Thanks for looking
  7. For sale S/H body tub as removed from my car, due to some minor damage. Red - ZK Wide Body - Removeable rear arches. Damage:- 1. Has exhaust burn to NS front - following over zealous rolling road session ! 2. Accident damage to rear bodywork - cracked fibreglass round rear foglight area. Not severe & you can hardly notice unless you look for it. Ideal for a race car or if someone wants to spend the time to fix it up. £100 Buyer collects. No comments about my conservatory please
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