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johnm100

WSCC Member
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9 In Build

About johnm100

  • Rank
    Pedestrian

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield SEiW, C20XE
  • My Location
    Milton Keynes

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  1. Thanks for the advice and I will check the rose joints carefully.
  2. That may be in a couple of months but I will definitely report back once I have had a drive. I have to drive it 100 miles to get it home when I eventually get the space sorted out so that will give some idea.
  3. Vauxhall Redtop - 2 litre C20XE.. The 1993 Race Kit had lightweight bodywork as well.
  4. Don't know if these will help.
  5. Thanks for the input. By chance I was uploading a poor photo of the mounting block as your reply came in. I hope that might be helpful. As to how the car drives, I haven't got to that yet, I was asking out of curiosity to know what I had got. The car is off road in a garage some way from me until I have cleared enough space to bring it up to my home/garage. So I have only moved it from the trailer that delivered it into a garage. The car was originally built as a hill climb car and then was used as a circuit racer before being laid up (albeit regularly maintained). It has never really been on the road, although it is road registered.
  6. Thanks. It is possible it is something that Westfield produced back in 1993, I guess. I have added a photo of the mounting in case that help the identification, although they may all be broadly the same. Sorry the photo is rather blurred but I think the mounting is understandable. It is just located by one wishbone bolt passing through the rod end (not a bush in this case) and through the aluminium mounting block.
  7. Hi, I see a lot of discussion on ARBs and the fact that Westfield items may be too stiff - for some uses anyway. I have seen reference to inboard and outboard factory items, adjustable and non adjustable, welded/not welded and wide track or not. Although a lot of posts have photos I haven't yet found anything that confirms what my front ARB is. Would anyone be able to identify from the photo? Clearly non adjustable but beyond that I am not sure. Car is built on a 1993 SEIW race kit.
  8. Yes, the effect on things like bump steer and scrub radius was what I had in mind when asking the question . Altering the offset and contact patch width with a wider rim will have an effect on scrub radius. It would seem that it is a suck it and see situation to determine if the effect is positive or not and indeed influenced by the car's use since negative scrub radius is usually preferred for road cars whereas track cars may prefer neutral to positive scrub radius. But a good point to make and one it seems I will just have to try to see.
  9. Great set of photos and very helpful on the set up. Will be useful for the re-plumb which I feel will be the route I go. Thanks.
  10. Thanks for both replies. Essentially, it sounds as if offset isn't critical except in relation to what will fit,, As I have the spare rims, I can trial fit to see if any clearance issues. Visually, it looks fine but a trial fit will confirm.
  11. Another question, I am afraid. Just trying to sort the car out to be on the road next month. I know Westfield seem to use ET23 wheels on the front (and back, I think?). Has anyone tried other offsets? The reason I ask is I have 2 13 x 7 inch rims that would take 205 tyres for the front nicely but they are from quick investigation about ET5 - nothing marked on the rim but the mount face is pretty much in the centre of the rim. I am aware ET can effect things like bump steer, hence the question. Any reason these couldn't be used on the front? Are there restrictions on ET for the rear wheels? Obviously, clearance of discs, suspension arms, body are issues but in general are there any ET to be avoided?
  12. Thanks David. If I end up fabricating, the plan would be to tap into the connection from water pump to rad bottom with a couple of aluminium T's. My only connections are the cylinder head bypass and the header tank (no heater) so 2 ts will do it. Pretty much as per Scootysport above but I won't have any of the subsidiary hoses joined together but have them (both) tied into discrete ports on the bottom hose, which is what SBD seem to recommend.
  13. Thanks, this is really helpful. Your system does away with the Vauxhall 3 way rubber hose entirely which is probably a good idea. If I can't find the "correct" Vauxhall 3 way hose to just drop into mine, I will be re-plumbing and your photos will be very useful as a guide..
  14. Thanks for the photo. Yours looks to be a Vauxhall rubber 3 way of the Astra type (I think). It isn't too far from what mine looks like but it is different. In mine, the 3 way hose is in the horizontal plane between the water pump and the feed from the radiator bottom, then the header tank plumbs into the 3rd port which is vertical and somewhat smaller than the header tank feed you have. I suspect I have a Cavalier hose. I think I am going to pick up a good 2nd hand Cavalier item and see if that does the job. If it isn't correct, I will fabricate from bends and aluminium tube. Thanks again for the help.
  15. Is that ZK widebody or kit widebody? I am told the dash panel is different between the 2. I would have it if kit but I am guessing it will be ZK as kit is now very last century.
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