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johnm100

WSCC Member
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About johnm100

  • Rank
    Pedestrian

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield SEiW, C20XE
  • My Location
    Milton Keynes

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  1. Thanks, this is really helpful. Your system does away with the Vauxhall 3 way rubber hose entirely which is probably a good idea. If I can't find the "correct" Vauxhall 3 way hose to just drop into mine, I will be re-plumbing and your photos will be very useful as a guide..
  2. Thanks for the photo. Yours looks to be a Vauxhall rubber 3 way of the Astra type (I think). It isn't too far from what mine looks like but it is different. In mine, the 3 way hose is in the horizontal plane between the water pump and the feed from the radiator bottom, then the header tank plumbs into the 3rd port which is vertical and somewhat smaller than the header tank feed you have. I suspect I have a Cavalier hose. I think I am going to pick up a good 2nd hand Cavalier item and see if that does the job. If it isn't correct, I will fabricate from bends and aluminium tube. Thanks again for the help.
  3. Is that ZK widebody or kit widebody? I am told the dash panel is different between the 2. I would have it if kit but I am guessing it will be ZK as kit is now very last century.
  4. Well, that is really the question. There are the silicone hoses you have found, a further version in silicone for the redtop in RWD configuration, which is different and then there are some offers of used hoses either from Astra, Cavalier etc. Unfortunately, they all look slightly different and the angles don't look right, although it difficult to tell from the photos. It doesn't help that my car is stored 100 miles away so I can't pop out to the garage to double check. It isn't a big issue, I might take the plunge on one of the offers and frankly, it is isn't right, it won't be a big job to re-plumb a section. As I mentioned before, really just a case of trying to identify the right hose rather than maybe having to do a bit of re-plumbing but it isn't the most taxing job if I have to do it. Thanks for all your help.
  5. Thanks for the link, Tony. I have the layout SBD suggest. I did speak to SBD today about the 3 way hose and they confirmed it is Vauxhall but no longer available from Vauxhall. They couldn't remember if it was Astra, Cavalier or Calibra hence my question. It isn't absolutely crucial, I can fabricate something that will work, just that it would be easier to just replace the current dodgy 3 way hose.
  6. Does anyone know the correct 3 way water pump hose for the Vauxhall Redtop in an RWD Westfield installation? Mine looks to have an original Vauxhall rubber 3 way hose but I am not sure if it is the 3 way hose that would have been fitted in the FWD Astra (which supplied the engine). That hose (Astra) doesn't seem to be available new (apart from an expensive german supplier) and I don't know if the various silicone variants are angled correctly for RWD, the advertisers photos make it hard to tell. Looking online, I have seen reference to Cavalier hoes and the do look similar. It is the 3 way hose that connects the water pump to the radiator bottom hose circuit and also includes a top outlet which in my case is used for the header tank feed. Any pointers to the right part would be gratefully received.
  7. Ah, got it. Very nice engine. Hope you find a solution.
  8. I hope I haven't misunderstood your problem but assuming you are using a Rover V8, - what gearbox are you using? The reason I ask is because if it is an LT77 (and I think this applies to the later R380), the clutch lever (fork) pivot inside the bell housing is available in various lengths, dependant on the original vehicle the box was used in. For example the LT77 in a Triumph TR7 (4 cylinder) can be mated to the Rover V8 to produce a TR8 clone (as British Leyland did for the few proper TR8s produced) but the pivot length is very different. In that swap, if the pivot isn't changed, the clutch "over throws" which is the opposite to your problem. However, my point is the wrong combination can alter the clutch throw and effect the feel. If the pivot is hardly getting the release bearing to the pressure plate, it will feel light. If it is "over throwing" it will feel heavy. If I am completely off beam, disregard but I just thought I would mention it as it is a rather obscure issue that can be easily missed. In the case of the TR8 clone, there are kits to do that conversion from various specialists but they don't include a different (correct) length pivot even though it is essential, resulting in much head scratching.
  9. I'll happily take it. Let me know postage to Milton Keynes area and how to transfer to you. Regards John
  10. Thank you for your confirmation it should be level. I will make a shim to just lift the nearside mount slightly. Good to know there is some adjustment in position although I am mounted about as far back as you could sensibly go which is probably best for balance. Yes the gearbox must also have a degree of tilt to it but since we are only talking a miniscule amount it doesn't really effect anything. The lever may sit up slightly straighter after the shimming but I doubt it will be noticeable. Worth checking the gearbox mounts after as it maybe one side needs tightening up. Thanks again for your helpful input.
  11. Yes, seems a spacer/shim under the nearside engine mount is the way to go. It will give me just that bit of clearance for the exhaust as well as the general aesthetics. Thanks for the info..
  12. Thanks and the photos are really helpful. From other replies as well it seems that level is the norm. I guessed as much but remembered reading somewhere about an engine (can't remember which engine unfortunately) that was designed to be about 7 Deg off vertical and it was not recommended to set it straight. However, doesn't seem that the engine was a Redtop so a shim under the nearside engine mount should do the trick.
  13. Hi, I have a Redtop mounted in a Westfield. One problem is that the exhaust manifold (early SBD) just fouls the chassis diagonal cross brace as it exists the engine bay side panel. In the early SBD system there are two manifold pipes that exit the engine bay, the lower one is fine, clearing the lower chassis rail easily. The upper one just sits on the diagonal cross brace - not jammed against it but just kissing it enough to have slightly deformed the pipe. It also transmits vibration/noise into the frame/car. Looking at the engine head on, it is ever so slightly canted to the nearside. The engine mounts look identical (height) both sides and the chassis definitely hasn't been damaged to cause any distortion so I am guessing it is either a characteristic of the Redtop or a manufacturing tolerance. I would estimate "lifting" the nearside engine mount by 4-6mm would level it. It would also have the effect of providing a modicum of clearance for the aforementioned manifold pipe. Does anyone know if the Redtop is canted slightly as standard and is there a reason for this or could it be set vertical without harm?
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