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Paul T (tr3m5)

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Paul T (tr3m5) last won the day on October 6 2018

Paul T (tr3m5) had the most liked content!

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About Paul T (tr3m5)

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    Learner Driver

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    1999 SEiW 1800 Zetec on 45s
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  1. Loctite 5970 is the stuff to get, it’s not cheap but if you want the best and don’t mind splashing out...
  2. make sure to leave for 24hrs to properly go off too
  3. I’d use a good quality RTV sealant that’s rated for engine temps mate. I’ve just put my Zetec back together and used an engine-specific RTV around the dipstick, only done 100 miles so far but I expect it will be fine, just make sure surfaces are completely clean, dry and de-greased before applying, and try to make sure there is a visible bead sticking out as this helps stabilise the seal.
  4. Last step done...dipstick calibration. Used a Swiss file to add a small notch, it’s ~9mm above the original max mark:
  5. Where did you get yours Geoff? I wa sun able to find a suppler - hence the work with Mark
  6. Looking good Geoff - am I right that your tub is the fixed arch type? if so you may be interested - I’m working with Mark at Carbon NV to get a proper moulded, Carbon arch protector set made, if you’re keen let me know and I’ll keep you informed on when they’ll be ready
  7. Lots more done this last couple of weeks ready for spring/summer. Fitted the Raceline sump, this turned out to be a big job (full details here for anyone looking to do the same), I gave it a new set of bolts, seals and o-rings...and I’m really happy I invested, not only is it a proper, baffled RWD sump for piece of mind on track - it’s also ~60mm shallower than the FWD sump fitted before. This did mean I had to trim the bellhousing which was a horrible job under the car with a hack saw but now the lowest point of the car by far is the chassis hoop which is much more preferable! While I was under there I noticed one of the trans mounts was perished and as well as the clutch arm boot, so I replaced this and will order a replacement rubber mount also (anyone advise part no/suppler?) I also stripped and repainted the exhaust bracket and replaced the rubber mount. The more I go over the car I realise that after 20 years most rubber/plastic parts are damaged/perished and need replacement. Anything I replace I try to either paint, swap out for stainless and/or give a good coat of copperslip to try and avoid future corrosion. I also got my new battery cables (custom made by Electrical Car Services) I was extremely impressed by these guys, they were really helpful on advising cable type via email, provide soldering and crimping service with plastic conduit option, and the cables arrived 48hrs after ordering!...if only all suppliers were that efficient A small upgrade but worth a mention - I tarted up my new steering wheel with a custom badge made by Go To Graphics I pulled apart the unused horn mechanism and bonded a piece of G10 plastic in place, Simon is able to supply any size badge so I ordered 39mm which fits perfectly, very happy with this little mod. Last but not least I stripped back all the ally cooling pipes, re-jigged the heater circuit a little to be closer to the exhaust (to aid warm up), painted satin black and ordered a load of black silicone hosing with stainless clips to finish...all plumbed in and so far working great. The engine bay looks loads cleaner now and the silicone hose is a nice finishing touch. just need to give everything a good clean, polish and fit some new foam tape now before I get in to cutting the bonnet for the ITG filter fit. It’s back on the road now and still have plenty of jobs to do but I’m looking forward to finally going to a club meet in an actual Westy this week... and am booked in to Stoneleigh and a couple of track days too...roll on summer! Made a little video to celebrate:
  8. Very happy to say it’s back on the road after a long winter of work in the garage, looking forward to a run out to the Falcon on Thursday with the Warwickshire lot...
  9. Plug: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183298757222 Bonded washers: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132585478534
  10. Yeah, 18tpi for ally...absolute b****r of a job lying on your back though!
  11. I forgot to mention I swapped out the standard alloy sump plug with a magnetic plug. Because it’s 1/2” BSP these are easily available and cheap as many hydraulic machines etc use BSP. I also used a bonded (dowty) washer rather than the aluminium washer that comes with the sump as these can be reused and virtually leakproof if the machined face is good
  12. Sump now fully fitted... - used 4x50mm studding in the end, any longer and can’t get the gearbox end in behind the flywheel - had to cut the bottom of the bell housing away as it sticks out considerably and wanted the lowest point to be the chassis hoop. -didn’t need to trim the sump at all but starter is really tight to get back in, no issues, just tricky. -doesn’t seem to be a need for the removed spacer/cover as far as I can see, as the sump covers the bellhousing opening completely, although there is a small opening below the starter which I’ll either make a small cover for or make a larger ‘gasket’ for the starter mounting face which does the job. Overall I’d give it a 5 spanner rating, really tricky to do in the car and you need to get the whole car up high on axle stands ideally. Ground clearance is loads better now though, and I like the idea of a perfect 5 litre fill Just finishing some other jobs in the car and then I’ll get it filled and dipstick calibrated before firing up and checking pressure - fingers crossed! Rear offside bolt access is restricted so need to use a socket head rather than standard ford hex.
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