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About Morris

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    Borehamwood, Herts.

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  1. Hi, I'm looking for either an SU HIF44 (manual choke) or a Weber 45 dcoe carb for my XI build which uses a 1293cc A-Series engine. I don't mind a bit of 'refurbing' so if you have one that is surplus to requirements I'd be interested for the right price. Many thanks. Cheers. Morris.
  2. It’s been a frustrating couple of weeks following on from my problem with the lower wishbones not fitting. I spoke with the factory who said it might have resulted from stress relaxation following the welding of the wishbones, and that I should send them back for trial fitting on the jig. I noticed during my own little investigation that both suspension assembly sides went together very nicely if I swapped over the lower wishbones to their opposite sides and so mounted them upside down (i.e. damper bracket protruding from the top of the wishbone – a novel solution but quite incorrect! More interestingly I saw that the metallastic bush eyes were welded differently on each wishbone, one was axial to the tube and the other was clearly not! I can’t think that this is normal unless to compensate for miswelded brackets on the chassis. Anyway, following a week for the DPD standard delivery to arrive at the factory, the wishbones were finally received towards the end of last week, so hopefully I’ll get some answers early this week. What it means though is that I feel like I have gone backwards, having disassembled the front end and so delaying the steering and anti-roll bar etc. Anyway, ignorance is sometimes bliss and my young apprentice certainly enjoyed assembling it the first time around! I have though received back my axle casing and modified lower steering part, so I attacked the axle casing with a wire rotary brush in my electric drill. Amazingly I managed to remove most of the rusty scales (and none of my digits or eyes!), but it’s not really the finish I am after so I’ve asked a local company to quote for grit blasting all my ‘to be refurbished’ metalwork to give a good surface to paint on to. Annoyingly when I was wire brushing the axle casing I noticed that the (left hand) thread at one end of the casing has been damaged, whether by me or not I have no way of determining, but what it will mean is a session with needle files etc. to get it back into shape. I cannot remember but hopefully the 15/16” nut will tighten past this point so all should be good… In one of my earlier posts I said that I would be ‘growlerizing’ my half shafts. Change of plan following a quote for machining and shot peening from a local company – only a little less than a new pair made from a stronger alloy. That got me thinking though as the new geometry seems overly complex to me (spline length is not marked on the sketch but is 1"): If the object of the exercise is to reduce the stress concentration at the point where the half shaft exits the diff splines, then why not simply machine a small ‘u’ profile into the splines at this point (with a large radius at the full spline diameter) so the contact cannot them be made – job done. You can see the witness mark on my splines where the diff has made its mark – I’m going to give it a go. Worst case scenario is that they are going to snap – I don’t think that they will! Looking at the standard step in the shaft diameter on the right hand side of the photo, my small ‘u’ section will not be the weak point in the shaft under any flexural loading. An interesting and informative article showing the 'growlerizing' process is shown in the link below: http://mgparts.co.nz/uprating-midget-rear-axles/ I’ve made some headway on my instruments. There is a good article describing the refurbishment of TR6 instruments. It takes you through disassembly, cleaning, refurbishment and re-assembly with good photos - a very good source of information: http://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm So far I’ve taken all the instryments apart, cleaned the glass with ‘Windowlene’; the chrome bezles with ‘silvo’ metal polish and the faces with ‘pledge multisurface cleaner’, and they have all come up a treat! I haven’t tackled the metal cases yet, but once I have done this I’ll post some photos of the finished articles. For anyone who is interested as Moss don’t sell the rubber that goes between the chrome bezel and the glass (apparently used to be hot poured), they are sold on Ebay. The 2” (half v) bezels take 3 mm sponge rubber cord, and the 4” (half v) bezels the 4 mm sponge rubber cord: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bezel-to-Glass-Seal-for-Smiths-and-British-Jaeger-Instruments-3mm-and-4mm/131978674215?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 This is the mess the old hot poured rubber seal makes following 47 years - very hard and brittle, but relatively easy to clean out from the bezel with a screwdriver (carefully!): The same vendor also sells the rubber ‘under-glass’ O-rings that are fitted to the 4” instruments only. Btw, thank you ‘cc’ for the advice on how different types of suspension bush work. I’ve found an article on this forum that is a very good tutorial on the subject: Anyway, hopefully I’ll have some answers this week re my front suspension, and my metalwork will be on their way to be grit blasted. Last but not least, sale of the old MG parts is still going strong with 91% of my original (four figure) purchase price recouped so far. The shell was collected last Friday with two of us man-handling it into the back of a Luton box van. I'm very glad it is going to a good home and will be used as a replacement for a rotten beyond repair shell.
  3. Yes, hopefully it won't come to sending the chassis off for rework, i.e. manhandling it back through our side gate...!
  4. Yes I agree totally, they'll be some highly loaded components outside of the design load cases (which currently manifests itself as stiff king pin rotation) which could lead to premature wear or even failure. Looks like a call to Westfield will be in order... Thank you for the other info also. I have the standard metallastic type that came already fitted to the wishbone.
  5. Thank you Simon, I have now had marginal success in as much as all the bolts are now in. I tried swapping around the top wishbones but I had the same issues (and laying one over the other showed them to be identical). In the end I managed to get all the bolts in, with the final bolt being that of the top wishbone front bolt (that also takes the anti-roll bar bracket) although it did need 'screwing' in and forceful alignment in order to align the chassis bracket with the mounting hole of the wishbone. So a success in one way, although there is significant resistance in rotating the king pin - probably not so noticeable once the wheel is on and driving on the road, but obviously not quite right and a source of wear in the future. The king pin of the near side assembly rotates very nicely despite having to 'screw in' the lower king pin bolt. Btw, the eagle-eyed will notice that at the bottom of the photo there is a washer missing between the lower wishbone bush and the chassis - looks like I'll be disassembling again...! Having said that, I've looked at photos of other builds and I don't see a washer there either - not even the standard diameter one. I'd say there should be a washer as the bush will otherwise rotate against the chassis. Last but not least - what's with the powder coated masking tape on the anti-roll bar roughly where it passes through the clamping bracket (seen in above photo)? I've removed the tape and of course I'm left with exposed steel...
  6. I have now started the build proper and I'll add more words about it next week when I get more time. (My 'apprentice' was off school yesterday with a cold so my 'golden time with no interruptions' in the garage didn't happen this week). I had an interesting couple turn up though to collect my MG windscreen who's transport was a Triumph Rocket 3 motorbike with a sidecar - 2300 cc three cylinder engine that sounded divine. The bike and sidecar combo weighed in at about 600 kg, and with 160 odd bhp on tap he said it went like a rocket. Given me an idea... Anyway, the real reason for my post this evening is my front suspension which has gone together well up to a point.... Looking at the photo below you will see that my off side top king pin trunnion doesn't line up with the chassis mount! I've slackened off all the nuts including the wishbone camber nut (they of course were not tight anyway), but there is still a 10 mm or so misalignment. If I fit the 1/2" bolt through the top trunnion first, then the 7/16" bolt will part fit through the lower chassis mount and the phosphor bronze bush but of course not through the other side of the chassis mount due to the misalignment. The near side king pin fitted ok although the lower 7/16" bolt did need winding though the mount which I wasn't too happy about. Is there something fundamental that I have missed or done wrong here (general suspension assembly shown below)? I've wobbled all the components, but there is no forwards/ backwards adjustment on the wishbones, and the chassis mounting lugs are all straight. I could try to off-set the wishbone bushes a little but it wouldn't be enough to solve the issue. All ideas and suggestions gratefully received as I hope that I am doing something dumb rather than having mis-welded lugs (it would all be jig welded anyway). Whilst I think of it, the lower wishbones are of course handed, but not the upper wishbones as far as I can see - or am I wrong? Btw, some good news to end on - my axle and steering parts are now ready (7 weeks!) and will be sent down to me ! Many thanks.
  7. Oh I did wonder about what constituted a late type Midget (rubber bumper model I guess). I like Simon's solution so I'll try something along those lines. The hand brake lever itself is showing a small amount of corrosion under the chrome in some limited areas so that'll need addressing when the time comes. Btw, I now have my eBay engine stand which I reckon is £25 very well spent. I could never have made one for that price.
  8. Ok thank you Simon, that's quite an elegant solution.
  9. I’ve been pretty busy the past couple of weeks getting everything ready to start assembly. Most of my time has been spent raising cash from the sale of the MG parts. I paid almost £1,300 for the car and have so far clawed back 50% of my outlay from the sale of parts, so I’m very pleased. It hasn’t been without effort though, what with fending off silly questions and inappropriate offers on the auction site, arranging for people to collect items from my home, packaging up parts and printing off postage labels, taking them to the post office and/ or drop off points etc. I have still some of the larger ticket items remaining to sell such as the gearbox/ doors etc. but they have plenty of watchers to I’m not too worried that they are taking a little more time to sell. It’s been an interesting exercise and I’ve met some interesting characters talking about the projects that they are working on! What I am pleased about is that the parts I have sold so far are being used to keep other MGs on the road. Re the XI, I’ve drilled out the countersunk rivets attaching the door hinges to the chassis and removed the wraparound wind shield from the scuttle moulding in preparation for the IVA test (and cunningly ‘hidden’ them in the spare bedroom! ). I cannot fathom though why the door hinges aren’t attached to the chassis using rivnuts, especially as they are removed anyway pre IVA as a matter of course. Post IVA (in the dim and distant future) I’ll put this right and make sure that they are removable. I’ve tidied up the garage to make the XI accessible all the way around the chassis by removing the bodywork. Access is now excellent despite the bikes, part finished go-cart and old MG parts littered around. I’ve just bought a second hand Sealey engine stand (from an auction site) which I’ll be collecting on Wednesday after work. It was very cheap (£25), un-used and local so that will help me no end when I come to disassembling/ re-building the engine. Time has been spent separating the many many parts I’ve bought from Moss into ‘component’ piles, to save time hunting for the correct fasteners when the time comes to fit something. That does though bring me onto a shortfall in the XI ‘build guide’. There is a bag supplied in the kit (for the front and rear suspension) containing three sizes of bolts, two sizes of washers and of course nuts. It is self-explanatory where the long bolts are used, but in a couple of areas it is questionable whether to use a medium or a short length bolt, and whether to use a small or large diameter washer. I understand the logic of using e.g. a large diameter washer against a metallastic bush, but I reckon there are a few extra washers (and nuts) in the bag to confuse the issue somewhat. The instructions for this should be very be spelt out with close up photos to ensure no deviations are made from the intended assembly procedure. Once I am sure I’ve fathomed it out I’ll post some photos in this thread for comment as it might be useful to fellow builders who are scratching their head over this, if only to save some time on the build. I’ve dry fitted the wishbones/ dampers to make sure that the brackets are all in the right place and that the lugs have the correct separation (for the lower damper attachment especially as I’ve read the stories!). Of course it all fits together correctly (with the lower wishbones on the correct side of the car – I’ve read about that one also…! ). The upper wishbones don’t slide smoothly into the mounting lugs so a small amount of tweaking was required, which is very easy to do with a wooden block and a gentle tap with a mallet as we are only talking a couple of mm or so. Initially I thought that it was due to the powder coating that has pushed the apparent location out of tolerance, but it is more likely to be upper or lower tolerances being reached for more than one dimension which sum together making for a very fit tight. The bushes are centralised in the wishbone eyes, but I might even be able to nudge them by a couple of mm although I'll need to be careful for the wishbone eye itself not to rub up against the chassis mounting lug. I'll let you know once I've done the deed as to the most appropriate solution. Feels like I’m moaning a bit here, but my axle and steering have been at the factory’s sub-con supplier for more than five weeks now. In my eyes this is pushing the boundaries of a timely lead time somewhat! Customer service is everything in my eyes and it has been very good up until this point. For this sub-con job though, my phone calls have not always been returned, and no definitive date has been given on when the parts will be ready for my collection. Having said all this, the parts manager did phone me today to say that the wait should be no more than a couple more days. This is a hobby so I shouldn’t really get too worked up over it, but two to three weeks I would have thought to be appropriate for a small welding job such as this? I’ve also found time for some chassis prep. The aluminium sides have slots/ holes in them for the suspension and steering parts. Some edges of these openings were nice and smooth, but others were a little sharp and rough. No big deal to tidy up with a de-burring tool and some fine emery cloth. An odd feature in the driver’s side foot well is that silicone sealant has been used in some areas (i.e. where the chassis tubes pass through a panels) but not in others (e.g. where two aluminium panels come together) where water is sure to get though the gap between the panels ! Again, no big deal really and a quick squirt of sealant in the area will put it right (to be completed once I am on the pedal assembly!). I must say at this point (as I am getting to know the chassis better) that the quality of welding looks to be very neat and tidy. Whether or not this is also an indication of structural soundness I cannot say as I (unfortunately) have no welding experience at all, but it has impressed me as has the overall finish of the powder coating which is very uniform and unmarked. I am though experienced in structural adhesive bonding so I’m happy to pass judgement or advise if anyone needs assistance ! I’m scratching my head a bit over the handbrake dash light switch. The MG handbrake back plate didn’t have a switch fitted, but I can see from the Moss catalogue where it should have been. Looking at the diagram below, is this the later style bracket you would expect to see with an incorporated switch, which is more suitable to use than the switch included in the XI kit (which I haven’t yet found!)? A new switch costs £15 or so from Moss so I don’t want to buy one and not need it (Items 97 and 82 in the Moss diagram below). To follow up on the garage leaky roof, I appear to have stemmed the drip with silicone sealant, so all is well in that department!
  10. Morris

    XI seen for sale

    And I must try to stay focused as I have only just started to build mine!
  11. Morris

    Building my Eleven

    Thank you Rob. Looks like you have plenty of experience in adapting engines to make them fit by understanding what mods work without causing detrimental consequences. I've clearly a lot to learn in that department and will have to stick to keeping installations basic for a while!
  12. Morris

    Building my Eleven

    Ah I wondered how you were getting on with this installation - I'm following with interest.
  13. Thank you Tj, I'll give them a call. My Google search only came up with shot blasting...!
  14. I am considering getting my standard MG half shafts 'Growlerized' (!), i.e. machined in the area at which the splines exit the diff. The machining part of course is no problem, but finding a company who offers shot-peening to improve the fatigue resistance is proving to be difficult to an extreme. I though that shot-peening is quite a common process for crank shafts and con rods etc., but has it been replaced by an alternative method? Does anyone know of any local (to Herts.) or further afield companies who offer this service? Many thanks.
  15. Morris

    XI seen for sale

    And a real hotch potch of parts also (i.e. not very Midget based!). By the looks of the size of that engine surely the weight distribution of the car will bias more towards the front end now? A nice solid project though in the right hands. Is there a formal register held somewhere of all XIs manufactured? Would be very interesting to know how many of these cars have actually been sold since its conception.
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