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Greg 1

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  1. Greg 1

    Wind deflectors

    I made my own from polycarbonate. First made a card template and then cut and bent the polycarbonate. Mounted them on door hinges I purchased off Westfield. They have been on now for 10 years and are becoming a little crazed around the area of the bend so could do with renewal. Cost was minimal as I got some offcuts from a plastics supplier for next to nothing. Definitely worthwhile as they cut down spray and wind into the cockpit.
  2. Greg 1

    Just a quick thank you

    Hate to see cars needing the ambulance but at least it's not because you bent it which has to be a plus. Nice looking car by the way.
  3. Greg 1

    Losing Water

    Aluminum radiator or expansion tank? If so could be a fatigue crack somewhere. Often hard to see. Try getting hold of a pressure test kit. Gives you time to properly examine it
  4. Greg 1

    I broke it, again.

    Looks a pretty reasonable job particularly considering the obvious damage that was done.
  5. Greg 1

    Diff pinion oil seal

    A couple of things that I gained from hard experience with Escort diffs (English axle) 1. Pinion seals usually leak primarily for two reasons. A. the crush tube has collapsed slightly and released the preload and the pinion is now floating back and forth. This maybe very slight but is there. This is particularly prevalent if the car is subjected to lots of on and off the power as in motorsport. English diffs are renown for this fault. The solid spacer fixes that issue. Very worthwhile mod. B. the drive flange, which on Westfields is usually a MK 1, as it is smaller in diameter and fits in the tunnel, is worn on the seal face and the tolerance is such that oil can seep past. I have tried speedy sleeves to no avail. Still leaked oil. Solution was to purchase a new drive flange from Burton Power which fixed that issue. Haven't had a leak since. 2. Removal of the diff centre from the car is the best way to ensure that the diff remains in adjustment as you can then do it all on the bench and check backlash which you cannot do in the car. I have changed a pinion seal insitu and gotten away with it by just resetting the pinion preload and it is often done this way, but on the bench is better.To remove the centre, drop the panhard bar off the axle tube and disconnect one end of the lower trailing arms. With the prop shaft removed the whole axle can now rotate nose down so that the nuts holding the centre into the axle tube can be removed and the centre extracted from the axle tube casing. (There is no removable rear cover plate on an English axle as it is what is known as a banjo axle and the centre is removed from the front) The centre is not particularly light and I ended up after half a dozen times of having it sitting on my chest getting the thing in or out went and bought a Tracsport alloy housing to replace the cast iron one, not because I was reducing unsprung weight, but the alloy one is 5kgs less sitting on my chest and lifting it back into the car. 3. The diff can be set up in the home workshop but does have some traps and you need a few things such as a dial gauge, bearing blue, feeler gauges and a lash adjuster spanner. (made my own of those) You also need to have some type of spring balance to set the pinion preload. This can be done in a few different ways. There was a very good video on you tube showing how to set one of these up and I have been trying to find it again to post a link but haven't come across it yet. It was from a guy in Ireland who's into Escorts and was the best video that I have come across on the subject. If I find it I will post it up. As a couple of previous posts have indicated, whilst plenty of people do set up these at home and do a good job of it, if you haven't had any exposure to diffs before then there are a number of traps for young players and you can destroy a perfectly good crown wheel and pinion in short order if you get it wrong. Not saying you can't do it and do a good job, but if you have any doubts as to your abilities it maybe far cheaper in the long run to get a professional diff place to do the job. Get on the local Escort forums and see who they recommend in your area as five will get you ten, most Escort owners will have had to do it at least once.
  6. Greg 1

    Odyssey or Red Top Battery

    I have had an Odessey on mine for the past 8 years and still going strong. Can't remember the model. Absolutely endorse the above comment on keeping it on a maintenance charger. Have done so since building the car. Cannot comment on the red tops as have never tried themm but would buy another Odessey in a flash.
  7. Greg 1

    front wishbones

    Had the RD ones on for 10 years. Very happy with them. I did have to swap the bushes over for their competition grade as their lesser poly bushes were too soft and went out of shape. When I was fitting them initially, I did find that I had to spread the mouth of the brackets slightly to get them started and then gently tap them into position with a soft hammer. After that it has been all good and with these you can keep your original shocks as the mount point stays the same relative to the car.
  8. Greg 1


    If you use poly go for one of the harder grades usually those recommended for competition. Poly can start to squeeze out of shape and become ovalled. (Just ask me how I know) Also go for the best brands, I am not sure who you have over there, but often the cheap ones don't last and you will be replacing them. Nylon is good but will be a bit harsher ride wise similar to rose jointed suspension arms. These can be turned up on a lathe and is my planned next step. I currently am using a hard poly on the front, which seems ok, not like the cheap soft ones I installed originally, and metallastic bushes on the rear other than the panhard bar which I have rose jointed to make it adjustable.
  9. Greg 1

    Heater install

    What have people used to bond the demister ducting to the scuttle? Have you epoxied it on, used fibreglass or something else? And has it been successful?
  10. This may not suit every one or every situation but this is how my car is set up and how I drive it. Car is very neutral and goes where you point it. Set up 1. Wide track fitted . Race poly bushes to wishbones. 2. Toe 0 deg 3. Camber 1.5 deg. 4. Shock settings on front 3 to 4 clicks up from dead soft dependant on circuit. 5. No ARB. 6 22psi cold tyre pressure Driving style. 1. Late braking all done in a straight line and go fairly deep into corner with late turn in 2. Turn in immediately on release of brakes and aim for late apex if possible. 3. Gently back on throttle early before apex if possible. WOT by apex or very soon after. (This works on the principle of the quickest way between two points is a straight line.) There are probably a few professional drivers out there that have a better technique or line but this is how I was taught to drive a 7, rightly or wrongly. I am now getting into the old farts category so there are plenty of young blokes who are quicker than me but I am able to hold up my end of the stick amongst those mates in my age group, so I must be doing a few things right. I have had the most success with soft suspension settings. In your own Locost race series they run very soft springs in those and given that, I still think that I am still a bit stiffly sprung and there is more room for improvement. This setup appears to have dialled out the understeer in the car. The other thing that can induce understeer is an LSD that is locking on over run as well as power, in other words a 2 way LSD. Common in rally Escorts. I fitted one to my car and it was a disaster. Since then I have fitted a TranX which has 45/90 ramps and light preload and only engages on power out of the corner. Fantastic little unit. Has really made the car. Don't know if any of the above will assist you, as often setup has a bit to do with your driving style and technique, but hopefully you may glean something out of it all.
  11. Greg 1

    Widetrack suspension

    Found with mine that it dialled out the last of the understeer on turn in. Car is very neutral now. Would not go back to standard track. Really like the wide track for my driving style.
  12. Greg 1


    Agree. If anything we go up a couple of PSI and soften the suspension.
  13. Greg 1

    I broke it, again.

    yes agree. A sideways step off the clutch at 4000rpm + with that sort of HP isn't going to do an English diff or shafts any good at all. They are probably fairly reliable up to 200hp and even then you need to be a bit kind.
  14. Greg 1

    Heater install

    Thanks Peter That's just the type of info I was looking for. Daves installation is very neat. I will be trying to utilize the heater I currently have but it has given me plenty to work with. Will check out the T7 design web site too.
  15. Greg 1

    Heater install

    I will see if I can get some but being an SR20DE engine that side of it is most likely to be different to most installs you have over there. I should have been a bit more specific. I am looking for info on installing the actual unit and ducting along with what heater tap you have used, bulkhead fittings etc. The plumbing onto the actual cooling system I have more or less got nutted out. Need to know any traps for the unwary too.

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