Jump to content

Greg 1

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 In Build

About Greg 1

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Greg 1

    Speedo Drive

    Not sure about the speedo you are suggesting but a lot of the electronic speedos can be calibrated by calculating a pulse code number. The VDO one that I have has a formula that you work out that includes the rolling diameter of your tyres and the final drive ratio. This gives you a number that you can enter into the speedo. The speedo is then set to read a given number of pulses from the drive or sender unit for a given distance or speed. In my case the Nissan gearbox I am using already had an electronic drive unit so I converted this to read to the speedo. Once calibrated they are suprisingly accurate. The good thing is if you change tyre size or diff ratio, it is a simple job to recalibrate the speedo. I would think that there would be a way of doing similar with the one you are thinking of using. Have you looked on the manufacturers web site as often they have instructions on this? As far as IVA is concerned, I will have to leave this to someone from your side of the pond as our registration requirements are some what different here in Australia.
  2. Biggest problem is sneaking it all into the shed and getting it on the car before the war office see's it I'm always in it but try hard not to get to snorkel depth too often.
  3. 7's are quite strong little cars and once this is stripped down may well be not as bad as it looks. If you can convince your insurance company for new then all good, but if not then you may find a repair is not to difficult. Here in Australia, whilst we can source chassis's, we do not have the luxury of the factory down the road and so have become adept at repairing the space frames. From the photo this looks like a readily repairable frame. Cut the damaged bits out and replace. It would have to be much worse than what it appears in the photo for us to write the frame off.
  4. Don't I know It! I have been sliding down that one for quite awhile now.
  5. My thoughts are that the more cavities that you can cover the smoother the air flow. If you see the computer modelling of air flow over our cars the air appears to hit a high pressure area in front of the rear guards and a lot of the flow then turns almost 90 deg into the cockpit before turning 90 again and exiting across the boot area. I would say a cover would clean that up quite a bit.
  6. Greg 1


    Westfields are built on a jig and many that I have seen here including mine have a difference in the position of the wishbone brackets right to left. They have all been pretty much the same, which makes me think that the jig is slightly out. Other than castor it can be compensated for by the adjustments in the geometry, although I am close to running out of camber adjustment on the left wheel. For castor, mine is about half a degree difference right to left which is not ideal but doesn't seem to affect the handling that I can notice. The only way to correct this short of correcting the bracket position is, as previously mentioned, new wishbones with rose joints.
  7. Thanks for that. Have been thinking of fitting one in my car. They look as though they have some other good stuff as well.
  8. FWIW I don't run an ARB at all. Use soft shock settings and wide track. Car is very neutral goes where you point it. As stated above there have been a number of cars with cracked upper chassis rails here. All had the factory ARB fitted. Mines been on the road and track for 10 years now and no sign of any chassis cracks.
  9. I made my own from polycarbonate. First made a card template and then cut and bent the polycarbonate. Mounted them on door hinges I purchased off Westfield. They have been on now for 10 years and are becoming a little crazed around the area of the bend so could do with renewal. Cost was minimal as I got some offcuts from a plastics supplier for next to nothing. Definitely worthwhile as they cut down spray and wind into the cockpit.
  10. Hate to see cars needing the ambulance but at least it's not because you bent it which has to be a plus. Nice looking car by the way.
  11. Aluminum radiator or expansion tank? If so could be a fatigue crack somewhere. Often hard to see. Try getting hold of a pressure test kit. Gives you time to properly examine it
  12. Looks a pretty reasonable job particularly considering the obvious damage that was done.
  13. A couple of things that I gained from hard experience with Escort diffs (English axle) 1. Pinion seals usually leak primarily for two reasons. A. the crush tube has collapsed slightly and released the preload and the pinion is now floating back and forth. This maybe very slight but is there. This is particularly prevalent if the car is subjected to lots of on and off the power as in motorsport. English diffs are renown for this fault. The solid spacer fixes that issue. Very worthwhile mod. B. the drive flange, which on Westfields is usually a MK 1, as it is smaller in diameter and fits in the tunnel, is worn on the seal face and the tolerance is such that oil can seep past. I have tried speedy sleeves to no avail. Still leaked oil. Solution was to purchase a new drive flange from Burton Power which fixed that issue. Haven't had a leak since. 2. Removal of the diff centre from the car is the best way to ensure that the diff remains in adjustment as you can then do it all on the bench and check backlash which you cannot do in the car. I have changed a pinion seal insitu and gotten away with it by just resetting the pinion preload and it is often done this way, but on the bench is better.To remove the centre, drop the panhard bar off the axle tube and disconnect one end of the lower trailing arms. With the prop shaft removed the whole axle can now rotate nose down so that the nuts holding the centre into the axle tube can be removed and the centre extracted from the axle tube casing. (There is no removable rear cover plate on an English axle as it is what is known as a banjo axle and the centre is removed from the front) The centre is not particularly light and I ended up after half a dozen times of having it sitting on my chest getting the thing in or out went and bought a Tracsport alloy housing to replace the cast iron one, not because I was reducing unsprung weight, but the alloy one is 5kgs less sitting on my chest and lifting it back into the car. 3. The diff can be set up in the home workshop but does have some traps and you need a few things such as a dial gauge, bearing blue, feeler gauges and a lash adjuster spanner. (made my own of those) You also need to have some type of spring balance to set the pinion preload. This can be done in a few different ways. There was a very good video on you tube showing how to set one of these up and I have been trying to find it again to post a link but haven't come across it yet. It was from a guy in Ireland who's into Escorts and was the best video that I have come across on the subject. If I find it I will post it up. As a couple of previous posts have indicated, whilst plenty of people do set up these at home and do a good job of it, if you haven't had any exposure to diffs before then there are a number of traps for young players and you can destroy a perfectly good crown wheel and pinion in short order if you get it wrong. Not saying you can't do it and do a good job, but if you have any doubts as to your abilities it maybe far cheaper in the long run to get a professional diff place to do the job. Get on the local Escort forums and see who they recommend in your area as five will get you ten, most Escort owners will have had to do it at least once.
  14. I have had an Odessey on mine for the past 8 years and still going strong. Can't remember the model. Absolutely endorse the above comment on keeping it on a maintenance charger. Have done so since building the car. Cannot comment on the red tops as have never tried themm but would buy another Odessey in a flash.
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.