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Si.Dalziel

WSCC Member
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Si.Dalziel last won the day on May 9

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About Si.Dalziel

  • Rank
    Learner Driver
  • Birthday 16/04/1983

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Mega S2000 (IN BUILD)
  • My Location
    Warrington

Recent Profile Visitors

321 profile views
  1. There is about 20mm to the board with about 40mm to the fan blades
  2. Westfield radiator fan for the V8 radiator brand new never been used. Only had it mounted to the rad for measurements. Westfield have them priced at £130 How’s about £80 Delivered
  3. Time to fit the engine..... Only joking, off on another tangent first. I got a slimline fan for my rad to avoid spacing it off and decided to knock up a shroud to mount it on. I found a piece of honeycomb board just doing nothing so chopped it up a bit. it it was supposed to be a rough template but with a trim down and a bit of a repair to the edges along with a bit of foam this will do the job nicely. Plus it weighs absolutely nothing.
  4. Fly wheel bearing arrived and when compared to the old one it was clear just how badly worn it was. All back together with the new OEM clutch. (Took a while to find the clutch bolts) all honda greased where it should ready for the gearbox at the next opportunity.
  5. Thought I would have a go at tackling a problem that’s been looming for a while. with the Plays kool ARB on even with its clever mount the factory fan has no chance of fitting in the gap. rather than space off the radiator I’m looking for a thinner fan. however as @IanK (Bagpuss) has had issues with cracking radiators I decided to check if the mounts are all even. A little bit of bending to get the holes aligned shows that one of the lower mounts is set around 3mm back from the other 3 when the rad is held to the frame. This is isn’t an issue as I will bend/shim it till there is a nice land on each leg. however I do have one question about the angle the rad should be mounted. I have spaced it off to sit pretty level vertically. is this right or does the bottom end need to come in more towards the chassis? or is it supposed to be mounted with just bobbins at the bottom and the rubbers at the top?
  6. I so wish I had taken more pictures during the strip down. Trying to find all the hoses and where they go hasn’t gone too badly in all fairness. intake going back together too
  7. 240NM required a new torque wrench but it looks good And the alternator spacer is trimmed and in. May need to get hold of a laser to double check but it looks pretty square.
  8. Thanks Rich this picture gives me a good idea of where it’s going to land. I have a feeling that the box will be out again in the future so I’m trying to make it as easy as possible to get in and out.
  9. @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary I saw your pick snapping antics in the build threads lol Hmmm I’m not sure if the bleed is different from them.
  10. I don’t have that problem. I have the older, smaller and more importantly delay valve free clutch slave. It will let me fit full 360. This should give me a bit more tunnel clearance as its shorter and the connections are different.
  11. @IanK (Bagpuss) is this enough P clips for you? its actually missing at least one. And it was a bit of a guesstimate on the length left to hit the master on the supply but I think it’s good. I'm hoping this has enough clearance. May revisit it later on anyway to swap it about a bit. Hopefully the bleed should end up at a bracket on top of the bell housing somewhere a little like this. The pipe ups will be trimmed once it’s fitted and the final bracket sorted.
  12. Speak to @Plays-Kool I’m pretty sure Luke could rebuild a chassis for you
  13. Who doesn’t love a big package. still no flywheel bearing but enough to get going with
  14. Found and fitted the supply banjo (I think it’s the right one) and had a quick play at tidying the pair up. depending on on where the bleed finishes will determine the run of each but this will hold them for now till the trial fit.
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