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NigelO last won the day on August 5 2018

NigelO had the most liked content!

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149 Very Good

About NigelO

  • Rank
    Learner Driver

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  • Car Details
    2004 SeiW Zetec Silvertop on Jenveys
  • My Location
    Rugeley, Staffs

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  1. NigelO


    Any news? Shall we just call it £30? - I'm pretty sure you'll be able to post it for under a fiver
  2. NigelO

    Peak District Winter Sun Run, Sunday 17th Feb

    Sadly not - car is in bits with no prospect of getting it running any time soon
  3. NigelO

    Consequences of overcooling?

    If the ECU detects the engine running cool, it may richen the mixture (effectively a cold-start map in the ECU) At the very least , this will cause hefty fuel consumption. Its more likely to cause problems with sooting up the plugs and exhaust valves At worst, it can lead to bore-wash, where the excess fuel washes the oil from the cylinder walls, leading to premature wear 50 degrees is very cool - I suspect that the thermostat isn't closing properly. Although I haven't taken my Zetec Westy on track yet, its had some fairly spirited drives and temps are generally around 75 - 90, depending on the ambient temperature
  4. NigelO

    Fire extinguisher brand new

    This was my thought too - judging by the wall its in front of, its the equivalent of five courses of bricks, so about 18" at a guess Edit https://www.westwalesrallyspares.co.uk/lifeline-afff-1-75l-hand-held-fire-extinguisher So - 372mm or just under 15"
  5. NigelO

    Help! - Electrics

    Superb - thanks! - do you have the same for the sidelight / headlamp wiring as well? I can see that these are linked, so that the headlamp won't work without the sidelight. I've calmed down a bit now, so I'm a bit less annoyed than I was yesterday. My normal approach is to keep going until I get it sorted, but it was clear yesterday, that all I was doing was getting more and more irritated, so walking away from the car was probably for the best. I'm now agreeing with Mike - taking the wiring back to the OE harness and re-making (or fixing) the additional wiring is probably the right thing to do. I'll end up with soldered connectors, coloured (or at least labelled) wiring AND I'll have the satisfaction of understanding the wiring a lot more, which will help when I get round to splicing in the FreeWheel receiver.
  6. NigelO

    Help! - Electrics

    Thanks - battery was already disconnected and it won't be re-connected until I've sorted things out I'm pretty sure, all the switches were permanently live, which always bothered me - I would much prefer them to be switched live with the ignition - perhaps now is the time to sort it. I have the Westfield chassis harness diagram and I have the list of colour codes for the wiring, so I have pretty much what I need, apart from time and inclination.... To be fair, I was getting pretty grumpy with everything earlier, so I've done the smart thing and put all the tools away. Perhaps when I go back to it next weekend, it will be a little less daunting.
  7. NigelO

    Help! - Electrics

    You know when you start what should be a simple job and it all gets out of hand?..... My original aluminium scuttle cover panel was very shabby, so I decided to replace it with a carbon jobbie from Carbon NV. At the same time, I needed to get at the wiring behind the dash in order to splice in the FreeWheel receiver wiring That's when it started to go a bit awry.... The OE Westfield wiring has been "supplemented" with extra wiring to feed to Savage dash switches. None of this wiring is colour-coded - many, many red wires, a few grey and a handful of black. Sadly, the connectors are just crimped on and when I moved the dash, several connectors came free from the switches and a couple of wires pulled free from the connectors. I'm now left with a bundle of wires that I really don't feel comfortable investigating any further. One of the switches is the hazard switch, which has seven connections - to my mind, that makes 49 different wiring combinations, any one of which could cause damage to other stuff on the car. As I see it, I have two options: 1) Pull out all the extra wiring back to the OE harness and re-make my own, with labels and soldered joints 2) Pay someone who is very familiar with the Westfield chassis harness to sort it for me I know that 1) is the right way , but I really don't want to cause any damage by shorting stuff out, so I'm more inclined to go down the route of 2) and throw a few quid at someone that really know what they're doing Any suggestions of someone that might be able to help?
  8. NigelO


    I'll take this please I'm miles away from Sheffield, so could you please let me know the cost of postage Thanks
  9. NigelO

    A degree of steering 'self centring'

    When I first drove my Westie, I was staggered at the almost complete lac of self-centring on the steering. Its all down to caster (or lack of) - mine was less than 2 degrees, so I got ProComp to make up some caster-adjustable top wishbones - its now at about 5 degrees and much better, but its still not enough for my liking - time for a bit of adjustment Don't forget that faffing with caster will radically alter the tracking, so always get the tracking set when you've played with wishbones
  10. NigelO

    what the devil!

    I call fake - too much repetition of the image further forward
  11. NigelO

    Steering wheel buttons build - photo-heavy

    superb - thanks
  12. NigelO

    Steering wheel buttons build - photo-heavy

    Great minds think alike! What did you use for the spacer between the front and back panels?
  13. NigelO

    Steering wheel buttons build - photo-heavy

    Yes, I know about the double-indicator press for the hazards, but I still wanted a button (for the MOT) and also because I wanted the steering wheel to be symmetrical - seven buttons would have made me implode..... I have the original build manual, but I haven't read it - I assume it includes the wiring diagram?
  14. NigelO

    Steering wheel buttons build - photo-heavy

    Indicators (obvs) Side, dip, main hazard, fog, horn Simples..... ;) I still have to do all the wiring at the car end - dashboard off, find the right wiring, splice in new relays etc - should be fun...
  15. I bought an 8-channel Freewheel setup from @Kit Car Electronics earlier this year - for the last few weekends I've been tinkering with ideas for the steering wheel. My quest for neatness meant that I wanted everything to be neat, so I was looking at doing all sorts of things with the wiring behind the button panel. Because I have a small-ish steering wheel, I also wanted to hide the transmitter box as well as possible. Then I hit on an idea (I'm sure its not unique, but I couldn't find anything when I searched) Normal facing panel cut out and buttons trial-installed Test fit onto the steering wheel, with screw mountings for a back-plate and a mounting pad for the transmitter. Note the revised fixing for the lower bolt so that the transmitter could be placed nearer the centre of the wheel Back-plate roughed out with "plinth" made from aluminium strip - the cut-out is to go round the steering wheel extension boss Plinth Araldited to the back-plate - (just as well my neatness drive doesn't extend to the bits I can't see...) switches installed into the front panel and wiring soldered on I also covered the aluminium with some fake carbon vinyl, then mounted the back-plate The customisation involved changing the orientation and wiring exit point of the small project box that Mike supplies with the kit - I needed the wiring to exit the box at the other end and much lower down so that it stayed behind the back-plate. I also didn't want the transmitter LED hidden behind the steering wheel boss. Job done It's not quite perfect - if I did another one, I'd certainly be able to make it a lot neater, as a lot of this was trial and error. Still, I'm fairly happy with this first effort.

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