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Two7

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About Two7

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    Learner Driver

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    Abingdon

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  1. So it sounds like some sort of buffer between GRP panels is a good anti squeak solution, so I am going with a bead of clear silicone as per Chris suggestion. Following all the good feedback on the fuel return attachment I have good for the rubber lined P clips. Screwing in the brass right angle in to the Aluminium tank is very scary it seemed to get very tight right at the end, fingers crossed I haven't over tightened, that will be a very expensive mistake. I will do an engine test before I put the rear bulkhead on, to check all fuel lines for leaks.
  2. Moving n to first fir of bodywork. Looking for advice. Seen a number of posts that seem to take different approaches. QUESTION When fixing the GRP panels together finally, should i A) put a thin bead of silkaflex or similar in the join, B) use a 2mm stickyback foam as a flexible filler between the GRP or C) nothing between the GRP joins , or D) something else I havent considered ? As you can see I have some fairly obvious panel gaps. I assume a bit of Dremmel work is required to get some panels a bit closer. Any advice on getting a better shut line for panels woud be welcome. As you can see there seems to be an issue around the location bulge and hollow, they dont quite line up, do I cut a bit away from the bulge. May have seen there is a small graze on the black side panel near the roll bar plate area ( my bad in transit), Can I polish that out with TCut or do I need something else. All advice appreciated.
  3. While torquing up the back end I have been double checking stuff that is going to be hidden behind panels. Question. I have followed the manual guidance on route for hand brake cable and return fuel line, but I am a bit concerned about where they pass. The Fuel pipe is securely attached to non moving parts of tank frame and chassis. the hand brake is attatched to uper wishbone. The pipe and cable don't touch. Is this a sensible route or should I try to reroute.
  4. Doing the final torque of the wishbones. I have the wf torque settings chart but just wanted to check what the consensus is with respect the bolts going through the rose joints on the rear wishbones. Nothing helpful in the manual . Should I torque them up to 40 Nm or 34Nm or something else/
  5. Another "ODD" job was sorting out the top ball joint washer and IVA cover. I made the schoolboy error of using the washer and nyloc supplied with the upright to attach the upper ball joint. In the picture you can see what happened, the washer gets deformed. So replaced them with the correct harder / thicker black washer and what is called a Stover nut. This nut is very clever it only goes on one way since the hole and thread tighten up towards the bevelled side. You have to use this nut to ensure vibration resistance and enough tread sticking out when tight. Note I also made the IVA nut cover and installed that on the camber adjustment nut. Note the factory assure me that a washer is not to be used under the nut holding the steering tie rod end ball joint.
  6. Two7

    Wiper fuse

    I have the same wiper fuse problem. Along with grease the cable and make the curves of the pipe less extreme it was suggested that my battery may need a good charge as well, since low voltage can cause higher current draw in an electric motor . Normally the back EMF created by the speed of the motor opposes the voltage being applied and limits the amount of current the motor draws and thus it's torque. With a lower applied voltage to the motor it will turn slower, which reduces the back EMF and allows more current to flow. Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/current-draw-of-a-motor-under-different-situations.585336
  7. Been tackling the list of "ODD" jobs. Today it was cut the ends of the steering rack. I went for 3 to 4 threads circa 9mm, when I measured the wheels it brought them toe in by 10mm and they now look correct ( will get them properly aligned and corner weighted post IVA). Found the dremel made short work of the carbon steel of the steering rack. However wasn't plane sailing I couldn't separate the LHS ball joint, so I removed the steering arm that attaches to the LHS upright and took off the ball joint with arm still attached. Only when I came to reattach the steering arm did I realise it isn't a stud on the upright as the allen headed setscrew slid out towards the back of the disk brake. Cold sweat and visions of removing the disk brake. Drama resolved as setscrew at right angles puts enough tension on steering arm to stop offending setscrew behind disk from rotating, phew.
  8. Thanks folks. Hadn't thought about battery low charge being a problem, but it sounds like a possible culprit. Normally the back EMF created by the speed of the motor opposes the voltage being applied and limits the amount of current the motor draws and thus it's torque. With a lower applied voltage to the motor it will turn slower, which reduces the back EMF and allows more current to flow. Reference https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/current-draw-of-a-motor-under-different-situations.585336 Battery on charge, more grease on the cable, curves all gentle and pipe slides off with not too much effort. Once battery at full charge will try again and will run for 10 - 20 mins without blades to get them bedded in.
  9. Just tested the windscreen wiper motor. Splash tested the battery, no spark, good sign. Turned on the ignition heard the fuel pump spin up for 2 secs and the hum of the ecu. Switched on wipers slow speed and you guessed it they park on the passenger side, tried again at slow speed then fast speed then back to slow pop the fuse goes . Disconnect everything, change the curves on the cable pipe, turn the wheelboxes through 180 deg so cable goes over the top of the wheel (didn't fancy taking the wiper motor apart) . Reconnect and change fuse. Bingo they now park on drivers side, changed speed a few times and pop goes the fuse. after examining the switch I find going from fast to slow is somewhat random , half the time the wipers just stop and if you touch the switch they restart in slow. Gently try to switch off and pop goes the fuse. I think I have a flaky switch, unless this is a classic problem you have seen before.
  10. Many thanks Rich, I haven't seen this manual before. a completely different approach to fitting the bodywork compared to the SE manual. This looks a more controlled way of installing everything. After drilling for what seems hours and wrecking 3 cobalt drills I have now got MSA bar in the correct position with new lower mounting holes drilled. This picture shows how the lower mounting ( white tape marks hole) conflicts with rear lights. So you need to make a new pair of mounting holes higher up ( I went 70 mm above other mounting hole), dont forget they go at right angles. All done with the new holes, note I started drilling the lower hole then read the posts about this problem, so I have 1 part finished hole on one one support . Take away message Re-read posts before drilling. How am I going to make the templates. Please shout if this is madness. For the MSA bar plate and seat belt mounts. 1. I get a piece of thick card and mark out the 10 holes along rear bulkhead covering MSA bar and seatbelt mounts. I also mark the center line of the bulkhead and mark that on the car as well. 2. As per the manual above I then position the rear tub in what I hope is it's final position, I then drill pilot holes through the MSA plate holes going from below upwards. Repeat with the seat belt holes ( note in order to do this I won't attach the rear bulkhead panel yet, this means I need to leave an over hang equal to carpet and panel). 3. Put on template aligned with centre line and pilot holes, then drill and chain drill cut out seat belt holes and MSA plate squares. For the MSA diagonals. With MSA bar installed (nip tight bolts). I will torque up the bottom chassis brackets so the bottom bracket is at the correct angle, make wooden chocks to ensure they cant move. Slide MSA bar up and off lower mounting brackets ( needed to debur and apply a little oil). I am getting some plastic drain pipe of same internal diameter ( or as close as possible) of MSA diagonal bar . I will cut drain pipe at an angle so fits "flatish" under rear tub, bolt plastic pipe to rear mounting, put on rear tub resting on plastic pipes. Then mark up on underside of tub. Make pilot holes in 4 corners of marked up shape then carefully open up ellipse holes using plastic pipe as template on underside. If I screw up and ellipse is wrong shape / too big, plan B is to use drain pipe with bigger than outside diameter of diagonal MSA bar and graft it into rear tub so MSA bar passes through black plastic tube / collar.
  11. Thanks for this feedback. All seems a bit chicken and egg with respect to the bodywork. Having looked at the various posts I was going to try the following approach with respect to getting initial positions for the various panels, so I can cut the Rear tub with confidence. Any feedback appreciated, especially if this looks a barking mad way of tackling this batch of work. I can only see accidents and damage if I follow the manuals approach of building the back end pointing it skywards and lowering it on. 1. Given access becomes a pig I was going to torque up wishbones etc now ( I just have bodywork to fit). With roll bar dry fitted, load up the car with seats wife and 75Kg of weight to simulate half a tank of fuel and bodywork, carpet etc. Torque up all round, making sure the ground clearance is appropriate all round. 2. Take off roll bar. Create template for seat belt holes, MSA bar plates, MSA diagonals and fuel filler hole. I will clamp a datem bar near rear bulkhead top beam. 2. Initial assemble side panels, rear tub and rear wings. Get all shut lines looking good "off the car". 3. Take panels apart again. Place rear tub on rear chassis using spacers to get 12mm lift above MSA bar plates ( hope this is enough for fuel filler tube) lolly stick spacers for carpet over rear bulkhead panel. Get even distance above rear wheels. 4. Place side panels on chassis and attach to tub, attach rear wheel arches to tub. 5. Dry fit Scuttle and bonnet. Then if all looks OK, mark up attachment points for rear tub , sides, scuttle and bonnet. Use template to cut the rear tub holes. Slide in roll bar, attach seat belt anchors, fit fuel filler. 6. Attach bodywork What do you think ?
  12. i have made a thick cardboard template to get the elipses for the diagonal bars and I was going to use the msa bar plate holes as datum. How do I know I have the rear tub in the right place when I do the measurements. I was going to go with a) is it centred b) is there 10mm overlap over cross bar of rear bulkhead, c) What about the return at the back end where should that be aligned?
  13. Thanks for the heads up, guess who has drilled two holes, , never mind I can make sure the other side is good. Got some cobalt drills, fingers crossed they do the job.
  14. Decided to dry fit the MSA roll bar before starting to cut rear body panel. First task get the packaging off the roll bar, it is probably the best wrapped item in the entire kit, sharp knife and 20 mins later I have the feet and diagonal tubes free of the plastic. Checked with WSC factory as to fitting since paperwork supplied is for a 6 point cage. Use six short bolts to hold feet of roll bar on to mounting pads behind rear bulkhead above rear shocks. Slide short tubes into diagonal tubes and attach the short tubes to brackets on rear lower chassis with two of the longer bolts. Factory said I should have 6 long bolts 4 M10 and 2 UNF, but it looks like I have 3 M10 and a slightly different 3 M10, dont think it will be a problem (all M10 nuts). Once in place I marked up the 4 holes joining the diagonal to the short bar. Attempted to drill. Followed the strategy of start with a 2 mm drill and go up in 0.5mm increments up to 10.5mm . All going well till 6mm, after that I seem to be eating drill bits. Looks like I need some more beefy drills to get through the hardened steel of the roll bar. Any suggestions on a good set of drills to make it through this tube, I assume coolant is essential, as one bit clearly suffered with the heat.
  15. Thanks for the reassurance, I feared the dash had to sit on them. I will pinch the anti rattle idea, sounds like it is easier to do that no rather than later.
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