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  1. SamM

    iva bodywork

    well, we originally started to sand away the notches to reduce the bowing, so the side panels would sit in a bit more, but soon stopped when we realised that they would no longer match the outside curve and mate with the wheel arch. I'm pretty sure I've seen this step in photos of some Westfields, so I just thought it was a common issue.
  2. yeah, as you've said, i think it just needed to vibrate about and free itself... We've had the same on the brake fluid level sensor - when removed it wasn't tripping the warning, even with a good shake, so pulled it apart, clean the contacts and even tweaked them up to be more sensitive - now it's too sensitive and flashing when the car bounces about... guess I'll bend them back a bit...
  3. SamM

    iva bodywork

    We have the IVA approaching and thus trying to think about what might catch us out. When we fitted the body panels to the chassis, it was almost as if the rear part was 5-10mm wider than the chassis (we could even measure it as being wider), and thus it's very slightly bowed between the rear wings. But, this has left a step in the bodywork both sides, right above the rear wheels - see the attached image. Is this something to worry about for the IVA, as the edge could be argued as not being rounded? If so, I can only think we will need to use some filler/black-sealant to try to blend it together and hide the step, but fear it might look pretty bad... Any ideas?
  4. all standard mega s2000 parts, with poverty-spec dashboard. It gets weirder... was reporting 3/4 tank when full until last night, when it suddenly went to full after a small shake-down drive. oh well, guess we assume it's ok now... (as long as it can read empty correctly...)
  5. We're just getting ready for IVA (in a couple weeks) and filled the tank with fuel, but the gauge only reads 3/4 full. is this an IVA fail (if they think it's not fully laden) and how can we correct this?
  6. great news & well done. Out of interest, how long was your wait between applying for the IVA and getting a date? We're just about to send in the paperwork for Chadderton... While not wanting to hijack the thread - I've seen the plastic tea tray is required for the rear numberplate location, how did you temporarily mount it without drilling holes in the rear shell? and what did you do for a front numberplate mount?
  7. lol, and I thought g would be for ground and w for, erm, something other than ground... cheers guys, I'll give it a swap and cross fingers
  8. hi, after a quick demo drive around nearing the end of the build, I noticed the oil pressure gauge just creeping up to the max and staying there - I'm guessing this isn't correct? The oil sensor is mounted to the side of the block, above the oil filter, but the loom only has 1 wire despite the sensor having a signal and ground terminal. Due to it being mounted to be block with ptfe tape, I'm assuming there isn't a reliable ground through the screw fitting, and thus the ground terminal. Should it work as is, or do we need to link the free terminal to ground to get a correct signal? I think the closest gnd wire is part of the offside lights, so it will look a bit strange having a single wire going away from the engine (and I can't remember seeing this in any photo?), but if it works it works. Or, should it work without this, and thus have we got a different problem? ps, i know the aux belt is off, before someone comments about that
  9. SamM

    exhaust mount

    Cheers, I just had a quick look and removed the silencer. Mine is the same as yours - there is a bend, but as you suggested, the silencer was pushed on too far, beyond it. When I get a chance next week, I'll try to wiggle bits about to align them all better. But, first the rubber mount is pretty much useless at present, with it 90% peeled apart, so I'll have to do something there - I'm guessing the easiest/safest way is to drill through and use a M8 bolt, which will increase the part's strength but also the vibrations.
  10. SamM

    exhaust mount

    Cheers m8 - should that be in the kit, or something we will need to find ourselves? (any recommendations if it's the latter?)
  11. SamM

    exhaust mount

    I did wonder if the large jubliee clips could be for the air intake, as we're missing one there, but they're too large. Oh well, more random parts to be left in the box... I've just taken some more photos. Here's the mount pealing apart, not good... It should all line up ok with a solid bolt through, but I'm amazed if this is the quality of the part Westfield expect to be used: This is the loop on the cat part of the manifold I was trying to explain. There's a similar loop on the exhaust manifold. Should there be a spring or strap keeping them attached? This shows how much misalignment there is between the cat and the silencer. I think there should be a bend in the cat's pipework to accommodate, but it's WAY too large for our pipe-bender and almost think it needs to be formed before welding onto the cat? At the moment I've nipped up the jubilee clip in the photo, but I don't think it will hold well, given the angle-change, so I'm concerned about tightening it more and more... Finally... Does this look like a correct distance from the body? As far as I can see it's v similar to all the online photos I've seen, but I'm slightly concerned that the tip of the exhaust could be argued it's outside of the car's bodywork (as I think that's an IVA fail?), as it's potentially a little bit proud of the rear wheel arch. I need to check this, but it looks v v close to being proud.
  12. SamM

    exhaust mount

    I'm having great problems with my exhaust mounting, so I thought I'd ask for advice... the cat has slotted into the headers fine and it feels quite secure, so I've slotted the silencer onto the cat with a clip and then mounted the end to the bodywork with the rubber bushing. it felt ok-ish, but overnight the rubber part has started to pull itself apart, so I fear the exhaust will fall off the car over the weekend, let alone when it hits a bump in a road... see the attached photo - this is after I moved it roughly back into place, so it looks a lot better than it did - the rubber bushing is peeling apart, as I've tried to draw to the side. The upper metal insert has nearly completely come away from the rubber, and thus the entire rear portion of the exhaust would just be left unsupported... Is this a common issue, or have we done something wrong? Should we just drill through the rubber bushing and put a solid M8 bolt through, thus physically connecting the upper and lower plates, at the expense of removing a lot of the anti-vibration benefits? I can't see how else there's the strength in the system. Other questions for the exhaust-mounting: 1) should there be a spring or something connecting the 2 welded loops between the exhaust manifold and the 2 pipes going towards the cat? They both have a loop, so looks like something should be linking the two, but I can't see a spring or something like that in the remaining bag of bits. 2) the cat tube/section is not in line with the silencer, so how can they seal nicely? Looking at the S2000 promo shots from Westfield (https://westfield-sportscars.co.uk/showroom-brochures/sport-kits-range/mega-s2000-kit/) - it looks the same, with a distinct angle-change between the cat and the silencer, and I feel that just cranking down on a jubilee clips isn't good enough. Should the cat's tubing be slightly bent at the end for this direction-change (our's is just straight)? 3) Realistically, is that 1 mount at the end of the exhaust good enough? I just feel that it's quite unsupported around the cat/silencer junction and someone accidentally knocking that area when getting in/out of the car/etc could easily bend it? 4) the exhaust bag of bits has 2 quite large jubilee clips (roughly the diameter of the silencer) - where do they go? Cheers (again) for any help.
  13. Cheers guys. Hopefully we can find a way without needing to remove the nose-cone again, but it's only a 5min job if it comes to it. And, yes, that's an, erm, nice collection of tartan... Is it calibrated and vital for the correct hole positioning, as I'm now concerned about a wonky bonnet due to a lack of tartan?
  14. Cheers for the answers guys. I spotted a couple bullet-shaped nuts, which I guess are the location pins - I thought they were possibly to go onto the end of some screw-threads to round of the ends for IVA... hmm, without the engine in, i guess it would have been easy to sit in the cavity and pilot drill from the inside of the bonnet into the rear of the nose-cone, for these location pins... So, back to masking tape and measuring 5 times...
  15. hi again, and sorry for more stupid questions... How is the bonnet meant to be secured? As far as we can tell, we have 2 latches which we can see in photos should be mounted near the scuttle - but what's holding the front of the cover on? Should there be 4 latches, or is the front clipped into the back of the nose-cone? Somehow I feel 4 latches is more secure? Also, how do people secure/lock the bonnet? Also, while we're thinking about the IVA compliance. If everything needs to have smooth edges with radii over 2.5mm, aren't the Westfield latches sharper than this?
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