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Kent Westfield

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About Kent Westfield

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    Learner Driver
  • Birthday 04/09/1978

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  1. I have only exchanged a Ford 1.8L Silvertop with a 2.0L Blacktop. Certainly no changes in the mounting angle of the carburrettors. However, in the process I did partially strip down the carburretors and regasketted, which involved removing the floats. For this reason - my suspicion was with the float settings. But clearly this was not the cause, as these have been checked and readjusted but problem persists.
  2. I plan to do just that. You are right, it is a simple way to rule in or out the fuel tank.
  3. Gents, Having got my new engine fully commissioned (Zetec blacktop), the car is back on the road after 2 years. One observation is that when cornering right, the engine is misfiring. This problem is directional in that sense and only occurs above a certain g-force threshold - ie gentle cornering = no problem. Fast cornering = misfire. For me, it seems to be a classic fuel starvation issue as it is directly linked to the centripetal force acting on the fuel, fuel slosh etc. I am a little stuck as : - Problem was not present before the engine changed. - Main tank has not been tampered with. It is a standard stainless steel tank which I assume is baffled. If not baffled, well the problem was not present before hand anyway? - I have had the float levels checked and re-adjusted on the carburettors (weber 45s) but problem persists. What's left? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter? Any other similar experiences? Thanks
  4. That would certainly be preferred at least to avoid having to mess around cutting and shaping the panel.
  5. Gents, Can you guys recommend a source for carbon fibre dash for an SEW? I know there are multiple threads on this, but being lazy - I was hoping this would be a quicker route. I am after the fully profiled versions with the ears profiling down to the outer side panels?
  6. This must also be impeding air flow to the forward most carburretor as you are reducing the surface area of the filter. I have the same on mine. The only robust solution in my view is to cut a hole and allow the filter to breath correctly and also avoid this chaffing issue.
  7. Diagnosis complete. As stated, It is simply the additional 3rd 12v wire. I mocked this up with a direct wire from then battery +ve to one of the alternator terminals and it works. Trouble now... I need to find a permanent fix and link to the ignition switch. Dashboard is out. A real ball ache I could have done without...
  8. Is it possible to combine the low charge light on the same circuit as the switched live instead if having two separate wires as shown in the wiring diagram ?
  9. Thanks for the advice. I will change !
  10. This is the wiring diagram. Infact - reading the above, I am unsure if I have correctly wired up the alternator. Currently I am only using Terminals 1 & 3. Infact - Ignition light is not even coming on....so I am not even sure this part is wired correctly. Looks like I need to time out a little. Not sure I fully understand the 'switched' live part of the circuit?
  11. Should also consider changing the diode bridge?
  12. Thanks a lot. That is helpful. Is the voltage regulator the only potentially victim to such a short ? Any other components that could have been fried in the process ( diodes etc ) ?
  13. Thanks. Is the Voltage Regulator soldered on to the PCB or is it on a removable connection?
  14. Any idea on cost ? I will call them tomorrow anyway..,
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