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12 In Build

About Martin#30

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    LS2 V8 RoadRunner SR2
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  1. Martin#30

    Generator help

    Chris, I assume you have checked the oil level - most generators including yours won’t start if the oil level is low. I always have starting/running issues on the Honda gx160 engine that powers a lot of mowers/generators, when the petrol is more than 4 or 5 months old too - could that be the case with you? If you can get at the air filter easily, remove it and spray WD40 through the carb when starting to give it a bit more flammable fuel. On my Honda Gx160 engine, no amount of stripping/cleaning of the carb helped, and I simply had to replace with a new carb. My gut feel is stale fuel somehow gums up the jets/idle passages, and even brake cleaner seemed to make no difference. Hope the rambling helps, Martin
  2. Justin, in a rather ironic comparison of my supposedly reliable LS2 vs. your highly strung RV8, mine has ingested all its oil and now also knocks :-) I failed to notice the low oil pressure in time on a drive. Significant part user error as I should have checked oil level more, but it must have used 3l in 600 miles so was obviously hiding a fundamental issue. Anyway, reason for posting is the engine is now down to the block, and I will be taking it out of the car soon. If you (or anyone else) want any measurements/photos of the chassis/sump/bellhousing etc whilst the engine is out, just shout. On the plus side, can see no bore scoring or bearing damage yet. Only possible root cause I can see is the previous owner fitted upgraded cam and rockers, and these rockers have been rubbing against the cylinder head. I am surmising a bit of metal has flaked off, and blocked an oil galley somewhere. Hope you are having better luck with your rebuild. Martin.
  3. Thanks Justin, lots of good stuff there for me to think about. Sounds like we need to arrange to do a track day, compare car notes, and talk all things petrolhead for the day. Maybe we can align on a forthcoming WSCC attended day? Martin.
  4. Martin#30

    lipo car battery

    I have used 3 of these Link Haijiu Lipo batteries on 3 different motorbikes, 600-1400cc, and the oldest has been in place for 4 years now. I dont treat them any differently to a standard lead acid type battery. I charge them occasionally with a normal Optimate charger, and one bike gets left for months off the charger between starts. I even managed to leave the lights on one bike and drained the battery so much that it registered no voltage at all. Another has done many 10s of thousands of miles all year round. The batteries cope with all of this perfectly. What amazes me most, after the obvious weight saving, is how well they start a bike even after being left fitted and unused for months. I have not used one on a car yet, but would have no hesitation using one with enough CCA oomph for a car engine. Not strictly relevant, but hope it helps. These things have built in electronics, and I really don't think they need special protection - I would avoid fast charging them with a high current car battery charger, but then I would do the same on a lead acid too. Martin.
  5. Hi Justin, The fuelling is sorted now on mine, though it did take a fair bit of work. I bought EFILive software so I could alter the stock GM maps, but could never find the root cause settings in the original LS2 map that were causing my flat spots. In the end, I burned an LS3 map onto the ECU and tweaked a little to cover the small LS3-2 changes. Flat spots gone, and it feels like it has another 100bhp. I must say I am absolutely loving the car. It is an absolute weapon. However, by any rational measure, It really is too much engine for the car. It wheelspins in 3rd even in the dry with 10" wide sticky tyres. This is probably good, as it protects the MX5 diff a little. Overall, I am glad I bought it and would do so again. The only downside, and one I still want to fix, is the on the limit handling. It does not have that sublime Westy/Caterham driftability on the limit - I think because the rear grip is so great, and the torque so strong that it is bites at the limit compared to other 7s. It is still huge fun drifting out of 2nd gear corners, but takes a lot more concentration and it is a bit of a liability in the damp/wet. I have only done two 15 minute track sessions so far in it, and temperatures were perfect. You get a fair bit of heat transfer into the cockpit when stationary, but the temps are rock solid road or track, regardless of speed. The worst case scenario was coming back into the paddock after a session, and the rad fan took a couple of minutes to get the temps back down initially. My car has just a water rad, no oil coolers anywhere. Are you anywhere near Wiltshire? You are welcome to take a good look over it, happy to chat on the phone too if you would like. Martin
  6. Martin#30

    Where to source an mx5 engine?

    No problem at all. If you decide to go a different way and you don't want it, please let me know. Another club member has PM'd me saying he would like it, if you don't. We are both completely happy to wait for a few days, so don't worry about taking some time. Martin.
  7. Martin#30

    Where to source an mx5 engine?

    I have a 2003 1.8 VVT engine in my garage, you can have for free if you can collect from Cirencester. 110,000 miles, was turbocharged for the last 8,000. Was running beautifully for the 7 years I owned the car, which was stripped/scrapped in February due to rust. I need to keep the sump, the rocker cover, fuel rail and injectors (all modified for the turbo application) and the clutch. Yours if you want it. Feel free to PM if you need any more info. Martin.
  8. Evening all, I am doing lots of reading and searching, and going round in circles. I am hoping someone can help me out. I have a problem with positive pressure build up in my fuel tank. This reached a peak yesterday - following a great morning hooning the car round Castle Combe for a full tank of fuel, I then opened the fuel cap to re-fuel. Queue a very impressive, and dangerous, 6 foot high fountain of fuel firing out of the filler hole. Examining the tank set-up, I have a vent line and vent on the tank (see arrowed section of attached photo). I have tested the valve, and it allows negative pressure through to cope with the fuel being used, but is sealed to positive pressure. Turning the valve upside down makes no difference. I have dismantled the valve, and it is designed to work like this (simple spring and seal) which has confused me no end. The fuel cap itself is non-vented, so I assume I need a roll-over valve that allows both positive and negative pressure release. Maybe something like this ? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/roll-over-valve-in-line-with-5-16-8mm-push-on-tails-m-trl88 What has puzzled me is that this car has been a hugely professional build by the original owner, and fitting a valve that does not release positive pressure seems a very rookie mistake. Car has a swirl pot, would a swirl pot be used to provide positive pressure venting? Any thoughts, am I missing something? Martin.
  9. Just wanted to come back and post my experiences on this one, perhaps may help someone in the future. Initially, I de-glazed the pads using just a manual wirebrush. This made no real difference. I then had another go with a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder, and took half a mm or so off the pad surface - also had a go at scuffing the disk surfaces with the same angle grinder wire brush. This has helped quite a lot, and braking performance is significantly improved. I still don't think it is as good as it could be, it needs a really firm push to lock the wheels, but much better. I think I shall try a different pad next time to see what difference that makes. Thanks everyone for your advice. Martin.
  10. Martin#30

    Mazda SDV Build Diary

    The MX5 diff in my SR2 is coping admirably with 400bhp/400lb-ft, though it is reinforced like the picture CosKev shared. I also know of many high power MX5 builds which have no diff problems, though they do have the reinforcing power plant frame joining diff to gearbox. I guess that must provide a lot of the strength needed by the diff. Martin.
  11. Yes, it did and no advisory/comment on brakes. I guess the MOT brake force requirement is not too challenging. thanks for the pad recommendation. Martin
  12. Thanks for all the responses. Some great stuff for me to consider. Ref m/cyl sizes and pedal ratio, these will need more time for investigation. Just been out to check, and they are not easily accessible without jacking the car up and getting in with a mirror. Given the quality of components and build by the original builder, I would be surprised if these were undersized. The whole braking system has done 1,300 miles, 800 miles by the first owner over 3 years, 500 miles by me in the month or so I have owned it. The pads really feel glazed to me. You know that feeling where after a certain brake pedal force, there is simply no increase in brake torque? I have that, and have tried to de-glaze the pads to no success. I think I need to try different pads, unless anyone has any good de-glaze tips. Martin.
  13. Hi all, I have a bit of a naive question, hoping some of you can help from your experience. I have never had a servo-less brake setup before. I have pretty poor braking performance in my car. It has all the right components - tilton twin m/cyl pedal box with bias set to ~60/40 front, Hi-spec front calipers, MX5 rear calipers, Mintex 1144 pads. Pedal is lovely and firm, no hint of sponginess/fade. No binding of any of the brakes at all. The braking power is pretty poor. Both of my heavy, non-sporty road cars easily out brake it, and I cannot lock the wheels no matter how much force I put through the pedal. Car brakes perfectly straight and true. Now, my car is a little heavier than a typical 7 at 800kg, but is this normal for a servo-less system? Any ideas? It initially felt like glazed pads, but had them out and cleaned/filed the friction surface - no difference. Seems to be very slightly better with heat in the pads, though still far from great. Thanks for any help, martin
  14. What a great project, looking forward to reading this as you progress. I have 400bhp/400lb-ft in mine, and it is far from unusable. Traction limited for sure, but that will be the fun part to improve that over time. Very keen to hear what you will do diff wise. The big torque diffs all look like a packaging nightmare to me. Martin. Ps: very envious of your 69g. Love a it of gearbox porn.
  15. Martin#30

    Hants & Wilts to Stoneliegh

    Just wanted to say thanks for the warm welcome today gents, and great to meet you all. William and I really enjoyed our first Stoneleigh experience, lots to see and many people to chat with. For those staying on tomorrow, hope you have a great day. Martin.

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