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RandyMcStab

WSCC Member
  • Content count

    48
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12 In Build

About RandyMcStab

  • Rank
    Pedestrian

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield SE
  • My Location
    Somerset

Recent Profile Visitors

407 profile views
  1. RandyMcStab

    Denso 40A Compact Alternator

    Just do a continuity test of the diodes to see if the diode bridge needs replacing. Loads of videos on YouTube of how to test diodes within an alternator.
  2. RandyMcStab

    Denso 40A Compact Alternator

    Take the alternator regulator off takes less than 5mins. Check the part number, should be ARE6028T, About £20 inc p&p. Very easy fix, much easier than sorting your charge light. 3 screws for the rear cover, 4 screws to the rectifier terminals. Job done. Try it, you were only going to bin it!!
  3. RandyMcStab

    Will this be ok at MOT?

    Just order the new one and show the MOT examiner the receipt if he gets funny about it. So long as you show him good intentions it will be fine. At worst you will just get a re-test for free where they will only check the light, if that’s all that failed.
  4. RandyMcStab

    Garage clear out!

    Pm sent for the tacho.
  5. RandyMcStab

    OMEX 600 map for C20XE

    GuyH@omextechnology.com He replied within 24Hrs when I last sent an email.
  6. RandyMcStab

    Breathing heavy

    Need more info. What engine do you have? Does it have a baffled sump? Randy
  7. RandyMcStab

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    When I first got my car it used to pop a lot on the over run! This isn’t normal so I checked my timing and the crank was out by 1 tooth. Check your timing. The pops and crackles also indicates unburnt fuel... Your car is struggling under load and starting so do the very basic test- a compression test of the engine. Then check your fuel pump pressure both pre and post the regulator. Do these three basic checks and then turn to wiring and sensors as they will take a little longer. Good luck! Randy.
  8. RandyMcStab

    bent alloy

    Pro alloys in Wiltshire fixed mine for me a couple of years ago. I hit a big pothole in the dark and bent the rim. I think it was about £30, a single replacement alloy from Audi is about 10 times that! Never had any issues with the wheel since and it’s got another 20k miles on it now.
  9. RandyMcStab

    OMEX 600 map for C20XE

    So OMEX have sent me a map that is close to my engine spec. The ZETEC map limiting factor would of been the timing. The rest is adjustable. Big thumbs up for OMEX customer support! Once fitted the car will get a RR session. Cheers all!
  10. RandyMcStab

    OMEX 600 map for C20XE

    This is why I made the post, to seek help from fellow Westy owners who may have a C20XE base map? The sensors I have are OMEX TPS, air and coolent sensors. The coil pack is wasted spark and can be fittted to both ZETEC and Vx engines. The only difference is the timing pick up. So if anyone could help with a map that would be fantastic! Cheers.
  11. RandyMcStab

    OMEX 600 map for C20XE

    The injectors I have are high impedance, 12.2 Ohms if I remember correctly. I would of thought that a fully programmable ECU could be mapped at any point for a new engine type? Surely It’s the timing that would be the big starting point between different engines??
  12. RandyMcStab

    OMEX 600 map for C20XE

    Hi all! Ive been collecting all the parts I need to convert my car Westy from carbs to injection. I’ve just picked up a used OMEX 600 with a ZETEC map on it. Does anyone have a copy of a C20XE map that I can use to get me going please? A base map would be fine but if anyone has one which is close to my engine spec that would be fantastic! The car will still get a full RR once running but i need to get her running first. My engine spec is: - Early 1988 C20XE (full rebuild 1600miles ago) - 86.5mm flat top pistons - Piper fast road cams - Ported head (std valves) - ARP rod bolts (std balanced rods, ACL bearings) - SBD inlet manifold (0 degree) - Jenvey 45s (Mesh filters) - Innovate wideband - Westfield 4 into 1 exhaust - Cosworth green injectors (adjustable pressure regulator) - SBD lightweight flywheel - SBD Coilpack and leads I’ve built the engine for fast road reliable use as it’s mostly used on the road. Hence, the change to injection for better drive ability. I’m not expecting more power over my Weber 45’s and if I used the car on the track then I would happily of kept the Weber’s fitted. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Randy
  13. RandyMcStab

    dilemma, stick or twist. zetec/crossflow

    Option A: Convert your current engine to injection, circa £2k (including: pumps, filters, swirl pot, injectors, pressure regulator, inlet manifold, bike throttle bodies, ecu, fuel feed and return lines, ECU sensors, bits n bobs and mapping). Option B: All of the above plus an engine, bellhousing, gearbox?, mounts, cooling system, (if you like tuned engines you will no doubt spend another £1k on top). Total circa £5k+1k. Option C: sell your car add £5k to the profits and buy a well spec’d Car with the right engine. Option D: (what I would do) stick with option A and save the £3k for track days, tyres and a suspension setup.
  14. RandyMcStab

    Doors SOLD

    PM for the roll bar sent.
  15. RandyMcStab

    Zetec engine missing

    What’s changed? Did you just go to start it one morning and it no longer ran as it did the day before or is it post disturbing the engine? Make sure your HT leads are connected to the right cylinder as i had similar in the past but a quick swap fixed it.
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