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McFrancis

WSCC Member
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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20 In Build

About McFrancis

  • Rank
    Did you see that? ..............No!
  • Birthday 24/11/1971

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield Sport 1.8i ZETEC
  • My Location
    Dunblane

Recent Profile Visitors

572 profile views
  1. When storing timber in garage in the off season, it is possible to squeeze extra timbers between the front wheels and the body. Try that in your tintop!
  2. McFrancis

    Help! - Electrics

    I wish I'd known about these a few weeks ago.
  3. McFrancis

    My Gen 2 Megabusa Build

    +1 for painted tyres.
  4. McFrancis

    Tools to carry

    I've got the OXFORD TOOL KIT Pro, about £25, it sits behind the passenger seat and keeps a can of WD40 and a bundle of cable ties company.
  5. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    Busy weekend, I made up some rear wheel arch fillers to get rid of the gap between the body and the chassis in front of the rear wheels.. I wanted to keep the maximum volume in the arch so I made a flat plate that fits on the chassis cover the gap when the seat back drops down to the chassis top rail. Then I used a 40mm strip that follows the line of the arch at 90 degrees to the plate. The hardest part was getting the CAD shape of the arch, as the arch is not perpendicular to the chassis. Here is the arch filler before fitting. And fitted, I've got some tiger seal to fill in the gap and a few coats of stone chip.
  6. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    Thanks for the ideas, I've got a couple of things I can now try.
  7. McFrancis

    Megablade Turbo

    Very nice and very aggressive at the same time.
  8. McFrancis

    A Winters Tale; a few upgrades and a bit of a re-build.

    That's an awesome lever, I'm amazed that the tools on the engine could take the force. Do your neighbours mind you standing in their front room to operate it?
  9. McFrancis

    Binky, Binky, Binky!

    I've just started watching these from the beginning, following the recommendation on here. What a brilliant build, and all rather humbling, these guys can cut/weld steel more accurately that I could knock up a simple CAD. Pleade, No spoilers I'm only on episode 5.
  10. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    Next up some flush(er) led fog and reverse 80mm square from CBS. I trimed them as much as I could to get them more vertical on the rear panel. They don't need to be completly vertical as I'm not going through IVA. Still has a dusting of the blue dust from enlarging the holes. Finally at the back a high level brake light. Drilling holes in the bar was tricky, but threading the wire trough the bar took forever, started by threading cotton and a small weight from the base to the light location, then pulled a piece of string back, then finally the light wire. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to finish the back of the light against the roll bar, you can see the back of the light and it looks a bit unfinished?
  11. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    I had assumed that location was chosen (N/S/F) as it perfectly offset the weight of the driver (O/S/R). As I'm sure I, along with most Westy drivers, don't weight much more than a small car battery.
  12. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    I spent ages looking for a set of chrome indicators that I could fit beneath the lights. Eventually I found a set of motorbike lights that that sort of match the chrome bowls on the Westy. Like this one but with a clear lens. I also bought some halo headlights from everybody's favourite internet auction, that I had seen on another WSCC member's car. I made a bracket that held the indicators in place, that fits under the headlight connection and reconnected the lights and indicators. I also bought a new indicator relay to cope with the mix of traditional and LED lights. The lights I bought do not have a side light, so I wanted the halos to be bright when being used as DRL and dim when sidelights were required or when the main lights were on. This was a challenge as I'm a civil engineer and "don't do electricity". Anyway I ended up with a solution where the halos are bright when the ignition is live, and switch to a dim setting when the side lights are activated, regards of the position of the ignition. I'm well pleased with the result. Bright Dim Indicator Generally pleased with the front lighting job, especially the wiring which was new to me. As the nose is still not here I moved to the back of the car, I wanted to replace the fog and reserve lights with a flush lights and fit a high level brake light.
  13. McFrancis

    Winter Tidy-up

    I thought I'd drop in a quick note about the jobs I've been doing over the winter. The jobs were brought forward after someone hit the front just at the end of the season, so a new nose is on order from Westfield. As I was going to be fitting a new nose, I decided that there where a few other jobs I'd like to do. First up was taking the body off as I wanted to check the outer chassis by the seats, as I could see the the aluminium was corroded. Turns out the chassis was fine which was a big relief, so I cleaned it up and gave it all a few coats of POR15 and fitted new outer aluminium panels. Sorry there are no photos of this stage. It's a shame there are no pictures of the kids and me lifting the body around the garage. Next up was new LED headlights and indicators fitted beneath.
  14. McFrancis

    Is there another way?

    The cars are all a bit different, I think I used the interior heater circuit, as it was not critical to the operation of the car.
  15. McFrancis

    Is there another way?

    I'm guessing you have one of the small DRL controllers that uses the voltage at the battery to identify if the car is running. The simplist way is to connect the DRL positive feed which is currently attached to the battery to a positive feed that is controlled by the ignition. One of these is ideal, just hook it into the required ignition fuse. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/mini-add-a-circuit-blade-fuse-holder
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