Nick Mace
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It's a work of art. You must be chuffed to bits!
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For that price you'd expect them to get it closer to being round Seriously though, I've heard that non-round wheels can take a bit of getting used to, especially when maneuvering because you go to grab the wheel and get a handful of nothing. It does look cool though...
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Fingers crossed. I'm confident you'll be fine.
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Great news. Did you need the speedo certificate?
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I fitted the hinge to the underside of that cross member. That made it easy to mark the holes, but I did have to “crank” the hinge to get it to fit properly to the bonnet.
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If necessary you could call the factory from the test centre and they may be able to email or fax (remember that?) a certificate through.
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Hello - Please help! I’m at my wits end with my project!
Nick Mace replied to Jamie.Frost's topic in The Start Line
Do you have the standard ford intake? In a westfield set up the vacuum hoses aren't used and a number of the hose connectors are blocked off with silicone/rubber caps. I had a cap fall off (may have been a backfire which popped it off) and it wouldn't run at all well. You should check that all of the vacuum hoses are on properly, not split etc. I'm not sure what the purge valve is, but if not using it means there is a source of air for the intake which shouldn't be there, then I would say that it should be blocked off. -
I fancy doing a classic car restoration one day (likely to be as a retirement project). Wouldn't need to be anything fast or exotic (in fact I'd probably want to go for something where parts are reasonably easy to get hold of) - it would be for the challenge of doing it. Possibilities might include an early(ish) land rover or even a morris minor (I had one as a teenager so some sentimental reasons). I enjoyed building a kit with new parts, but taking something apart, renewing and restoring parts, and rebuilding would be a whole different challenge. I'd like to rebuild the engine too...
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I think it’s looking pretty good.
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My inspector didn't much like the look of the boot locks. He suggested that we remove the lid and continue the test like that...
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The only advice I can give is to make sure that you will have room to put the bolt in from underneath. I had measured the fore/aft distance but when the bodywork was on my measurements did not tranate well and I ended up with the roll bar a bit too far forward. That meant that the bolt head was VERY close to the chassis bulk head. I just got away with it. Side to side, I very much had to do what looked best - a bit of a compromise between the bar being central, and the gaps to the seatbelt harnesses looking OK.
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I did this too. The other problem with doing it off the car (I did that and fitted it one piece), is that you can’t be certain where the side panels will sit on the car - ie what the gap would be between them at various points along the chassis, and whether the rear tub is square across the car or whether one side panel needs to sit slightly further forward than the other. It’s a tricky business but I’m sure you’ll get an acceptable fit in the end.
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I don’t have a digital dash so can’t say whether that’s a calibration issue. I hope someone else can offer better help!
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You should see oil pressure whilst cranking with plugs out (speaking for my engine - a zetec - though). It can take a little while to appear. How long have you tried for? Try repeated short bursts of cranking rather than keeping it going for too long at once. I managed to validate that my oil pressure sensor worked by blowing compressed air into it (whilst earthing it to the block). Not sure if that is good practice though...
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Everyone making egg jokes at the chairman's expense needs to get ova themselves.
