Jump to content

Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

Area Organiser
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO last won the day on May 22 2018

Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

201 Very Good

About Simon Marks - North Oxfordshire AO

  • Rank
    Learner Driver
  • Birthday 22/03/1958

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield XI - All Done and On The Road!
  • My Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,701 profile views
  1. Might be worth checking the earth strap from the engine / gearbox to the chassis - or even doubling it up. With this done, it may be better able to cope when the hot engine makes unreasonable demands. A lot more years ago than I care to remember I had a similar issue with my BMW 2002Tii rally car. Cleaning the existing earth strap and fitting an extra one sorted the problem - a lot easier than going 24 volt starting that was all the rage in those days! Simon
  2. I've taken my Eleven to work this morning - running in a rebuilt engine. 35 miles each way from west of Oxford, via Wantage and over the Berkshire Downs to south of Newbury. A lovely drive in the morning sun - making a pleasant change from pounding along the A34 in the company VW Passat! Simon
  3. Hi, Give Paul at VS Welding a try - he's at North Leigh, near Witney, in Oxfordshire. He's a Jaguar man but, despite that, did a really good job of extending a silencer for my Westfield Eleven. Great quality of work and at a reasonable price. His website http://www.vswelding.co.uk says that he manufactures alloy fuel tanks. Tel: (07817) 109589 or email: info@vswelding.co.uk Simon
  4. Hi, Morris, I'd forgotten that you had a lathe! With a thermoplastic such as you describe, I think that you have a good plan, there. A cable tie or two (or suitably large diameter heatshrink) would give peace of mind that they were never going to be forced open. You will find many pictures of Elevens fitted with 14" and even 15" wheels (to look more "period"). These will need the spacers to limit the lock or the wheels will strike the bodywork - IVA fail. Simon
  5. Hi, Morris, I did not like the idea of the factory supplied steel spacers bashing into, and damaging, the aluminium body of the steering rack. A friend turned me up replacement spacers out of nylon - 6mm wall thickness. My car was presented to IVA with these in place. The turning circle with these in place is truly abysmal - 18m (58 feet) in my case - even worse than my Renault Clio V6! I have since removed the long spacer and placed the short spacer on that side and have no issues with wheels clashing with bodywork using 13" wheels and 165/70 tyres. It would be an issue with larger diameter wheels and tyres, I am sure. Simon
  6. Hi, All, As mentioned in a recent thread, I will have my noise meter with me should anyone like me to carry out a sound test on their cat. Simon - (07880) 405148
  7. +1 for taking it to Stoneleigh (on the Sunday) even if you had to hire a trailer. Simon
  8. Hi, Overthehill, These are the ones I ordered in the end - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201922428418 - £1.50 for 2 Simon
  9. I've just ordered a couple of 10 litre Jerry Cans - and some stickers to put on them! Simon
  10. I've never had a problem with lack of labels on either plastic fuel cans, nor metal Jerry cans. If you have a need for a sticker like that, I've just looked on eBay and 45x45mm ones come in at 99p each. I was, however, tannoyed last Saturday when I tried to fill up one of my cars with the boot open. When I queried the forecourt operative, he said it was "in case I was going to fill something I shouldn't - Health and Safety" Simon
  11. Hi, Again, The 0.5 metre test is a very repeatable test because, as long as you have 3m clear around you, reflection from objects is ruled out. I once tested a Metro 6R4 in a garage courtyard before a rally.Once at the venue, the 0.5 metre test was repeated and yielded identical results. You are also testing to a level way above the ambient noise level (typically 50-70dB(A)) so that also has a negligible effect when testing to 100dB(A). The ground surface can introduce more variables, however. I assisted at a rally last weekend and we were testing on wartime, tamped concrete. The Senior Official (who has carried out tests there at many events said that we were to test to a limit of 102dB(A) as, from his experience of that venue, he has to make that adjustment. The testing on the day found that to work with a good few of the front running cars reading between 100-102, rather than the usual 98-100. We sent four cars (from 67) away to check over their exhausts befre resubmitting. My feeling is that it may be due to the corrugations, Mike thinks it may be something to do with vibrations in the slabs of concrete. Though an Environmental Scrutineer will have a calibrated meter, and will perform calibration checks during the period of a test, local variations will not be ignored and if I were to start a test and the first few cars were all to fail, I would very much be looking at my equipment / procedures rather than send every competitor away. If the odd cars fail, I tell the drivers that "Exhausts are not like dogs, they are just for Christmas" that can, and do, wear out, or become damaged - or even show the signs of a badly adjusted / about to fail engine. I am old enough to have suffered the large radius tests, and was threatened with exclusion when my standard (engine and exhaust) BMW 2002Tii recorded a higher reading than the MG Metro 6R4 in the queue before me! There were gusty winds pushing sound towards the meter and guess who was tested during a gust? Particularly with rear engined cars, I see various techniques employed by drivers to quieten down their cars at sound tests. Some hold the clutch down, some will hold the car on the handbrake and bring the clutch up almost to biting point. These are all possible if people have found them to work. One technique we don't like is people who have switches to alter the reading of their rev counters. Once you have done a few tests on a morning, you get used to the amount of mechanical mayhem for 4,500 rpm and can soon spot a cheating tacho. For those without rev counters, I normally take a Snap-On timing light to events and clipping that onto a plug lead gives me a number to work with. I'm with Archibald Meatpants in that a standardish Zetec should not be problemattical. One last point - it is possible to over pack a re-packable silencer. Follow your manufacturer's instructions and don't be tempted to use up the rest of the roll (or whatever) just because there appears to be room for it in the can! Simon
  12. The distance is half a metre (based on Motorsport UK - MSA before that - regulations). An extra half a meter between the pipe and the meter would make a hell of a difference. Warming cars also makes a substantial difference. My experience of testing rally cars (mainly) over the last twenty years or so is that up to 3dB(A) can be found. Mind you, to warm a car thoroughly can take more time than you think. I have oil temperature gauges on two of my cars and they take fifteen miles for the oil to warm up fully! Other clearances also settle down (transmission, alternator etc). Obviously, more of an issue for cars that have been trailered to events. Simon
  13. Hi Bedford seem to work on drive by tests. From my experience, Abingdon has static tests (100dB(A) at 4,500rpm. I am a Motorsport UK registered Environmental Scrutineer and have a noise meter. If you fancy a run over to Oxford at some point, I could do a test for you. Alternatively, I will be at the National Kit Car Show at Stoneleigh at the start of May and will have my meter there should anyone want a test doing. Simon
  14. Hi, again, Having (briefly) slept on my suggestion, I would use 10A fused relays to feed each seat cover. Take the power for the switches from a switched supply so that, as Bug Man has said, the seat heaters are switched off automatically when you turn your engine off. When I have taken any supplies in my cars off the battery, I have always fused them at the battery terminal so that the supply wire is protected in the event of it coming to harm. If you prefer a shorter feed, it may be possible to come from the starter solenoid but, if this is on the side of the starter itself, it may be in a hotter, more hostile environment (and the fuse less accessible) than connecting in the nose of the car. When I built my Eleven, I also fitted an extra fuse box with both permanent live and switched feeds to cover additional lighting, power sockets that I fitted to the car. Simon
  15. Rather than surcharge the existing loom, I would take a wire straight off the battery +ve with an immediate 15A fuse (to protect the supply wire). Run through the engine bay to a split to two 10A fuses and suitably rated switches on/beneath the dash, one for each seat heater. An alternative would be to have the dash switches controlling relays covering the 10A fused supplies. More complication, and (slightly more) weight, but these are high current items. Simon
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.