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TableLeg

WSCC Member
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TableLeg last won the day on April 6

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About TableLeg

  • Rank
    I need a time machine this is going to take me ages!
  • Birthday 10/01/1973

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Building a SEiGHT w/ a GenIII L33 5.3V8
  • My Location
    Suffolk

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  1. And on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-AMP-TYCO-2-Way-Pin-Junior-Power-Timer-Terminals-Boot-and-Cable-Seals/141054539749?hash=item20d78177e5:g:ZiUAAOSwvlJZ5M7j
  2. Here's some more Gary, http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wdfiles.com/local--files/engine-plumbing/RV8cools.JPG https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8600&sid=58f513456472a798863bc55a1fc01d8f
  3. Glad you're sorted. Sorry I should have spotted you had it connected to Pin 7, as you rightly say NB sensor only. Be sure to update after the RR session.
  4. In summary, you have it connected correctly
  5. TableLeg

    Geo...

    Whereabouts are you located? I'm sure somebody will be able to suggest someone.
  6. Thanks for the pointers. In hindsight I wonder if it could have had something to do with me removing the filament before I started that print. I had an annoying overlap on the spool and removed it and then fed it back in. I read that I needed to heat the nozzle up to do this. Once I had reinserted it it kept weeping plastic from the nozzle for a short while. Then I tried the print. Maybe I did something wrong? As stated in previous posts I have had excellent adhesion and even this part took some persuasion to get of the plate. I'll try it again on the new Polycarbonate once I've worked out how to change the speed of the first few layers.
  7. Pin 18 is the ground for the sensor from the ECU. This ground can be different from that when connected to a chassis ground (which can float). The ECU ground for the sensor is kept stable by the ECU so the readings won't vary with fluctuations on the ground circuit. Pin 30 is the same, supplying clean grounds to the other sensors. The heater ground is just that, a normal ground (pin 29) to switch on the sensor to heat up and it doesn't matter so much if this ground varies. Hope that helps.
  8. Thanks @corsechris And @nice_guy For the replies. I hadn't realised the new marlin firmware has a function for levels the bed which is really useful. However it does show my bed is lower in the centre. I guess I'd need to buy a new bed or convert to the use of a bed leveling sensor. This is still the same spool I've had from the start although I did remove it then refit it prior to that last print. I now have some polycarbonate so will try another print this week. And if I can change Cura to print the first few layers slower that would help I'm sure.
  9. That's a good point Mike I'll look into that. Thanks.
  10. With the battery master switch left (but presumably ignition still switched off) what circuits have flattened the battery? Could it be that something relating to the circuit for the fuel pump and tacho are in some way connected e.g. an Ecu? or maybe a ground point? I would say that the fuel pump should be running at all as soon as you turn on the master switch so that sounds a bit odd. But in doing this it must be getting power from somewhere via the master switch. Maybe check whether you have voltage at the pump with the just the master switch on and if so how much.
  11. Thanks all, I'll check the bed level and try again. Only other change was I increased speed to 60mm/s where as previously I had run it at 40mm/s.
  12. I'm having a small issue I hope somebody can shed some light. My guess is adhesion to the plate at the start of the print. Can anyone confirm my suspicions? These faces are printed face down onto the bed plate. I'm currently waiting for some polycarbonate to be delivered.
  13. PowerMaster 8162 Mini Denso alternator This is the smallest 93mm body. This was bought brand new, fitted and ran at idle but unfortunately 55amps is not enough amps for my V8 engine setup. I'm running Motorsport fuel pump, high power Electric water pump, high power rad fan, 8x coils, 8x injectors etc etc. It is black in colour, has machined mounting faces to give the best contact for the ground wire. Comes complete in box with test label. Max rpm of this alternator is 20k. This is a one wire setup. Only the main power cable needs connecting. The alternator senses rotation and starts out putting voltage straight away. It does have the 3way plug (blanked) but I don't actually know if this is internally connected. Any questions feel free to ask. Cost £175 but I'll accept £125 plus postage. On here before going on Ebay.
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