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Quinten

WSCC Member
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Everything posted by Quinten

  1. You may be onto something there @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary. @windy recommended "a straight ep80 gl4 oil" first when I reported the issue (I had it filled with Comma SXGL4 75W90 GL4 initially after the rebuild) and then went on to say that "Fuchs silkolene silktrans syn 5 75w90 is the stuff I normally use". I then bought Castrol Manual EP 80W but never used that as the bottom end of my engine failed not long after I met up with windy at Stoneleigh where he tried to help diagnose the issue. As the engine went out, so did the gearbox and I had it checked over by windy and it came back as being ok. Once again he empasised that I should be filling it up with "Fuchs silcolene syn 5 75w90". When my engine was rebuild I had since found a for sale post from @JulianE who had 5L of Fuchs Titan Race SYN5 as per the link I posted, and used that to fill it up with. It may well be that what windy has recommended and what I have bought are not the same after all looking at those two products...
  2. It's been filled with https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68901-fuchs-titan-race-syn-5-75w-90-fully-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx as per the recommendation from @windy the gearbox rebuilder. When stationary, you can get the car in all gears, it is only when you slow down when driving that you can't. Of course I can try to do this whilst driving, but that may have to wait till I'm no longer SORN so I can find an empty road in an industrial site for testing...
  3. That's what I've done today. I started off with a lot of slack and then reduced it each time until we reached the point where you could hear the release bearing against the clutch plate. And each time we made a small adjustment (tightened the nut 1/3rd turn) I also did a small test run to see if it changed. I have no pedal stop.
  4. Have given it a go today, but it has made no difference with regards to 1st gear. When stationary, you can easily select 1st, but if you're slowing down, you have to be almost stopped before you can get it into 1st. The additional pedal travel has resolved nothing and all I've gained is a floppy clutch pedal for the 1st cm or so.
  5. Nice, you want to add those to https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/129180-the-big-show-us-your-alloysteel-wheels-thread/
  6. The only time you will have the issue is when changing down in gears as you slow down for a traffic light, etc. And then only 1st and 2nd gear. Until the revs drop to a low range, you won't be able to stick it in gear.
  7. This was recommended on the forums before: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SELF-ADHESIVE-STRIP-5MTR-10MTR-3MM-6MM-8MM-10MM-THICK/121388027214?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=420327339438&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I got the 32mm wide/6mm thick version and it's good stuff, much better than the previous foam (which although single sided, appeared to be as sticky on top as on the bottom)
  8. I re-used fork and bellhousing, but all the other parts where newly supplied and fitted, including spigot bearing. Clutch cable (inner and outer) are seated correctly. I'll start off with more pedal travel before it hits the finger plate and take it from there.
  9. Ah, the problem is not that I can't select the gears when stationary. It's only when driving... Guess I'll just have to adjust, drive, stop, adjust, rinse repeat until it works then...
  10. @Martin Rice (Sparkymart) - Cornwall AO did you do this on the road each time? Or up in the air? @DamperMan so in neutral adjust the cable so that the release bearing is not touching the clutch plate fingers... It should already be like that as I only gained more travel, but I have to start somewhere... I can select all gears btw, although when I briefly tried it today (still SORN so no real road testing) it felt as if I was pushing the release bearing further than needed to get it into 1st. Almost as if I now have too much travel...
  11. Long story short: swapped from Crossflow+T9 to Zetec+T9 and ever since the swap I'm having trouble engaging 1st or 2nd gear when coming to a stop. Accelerating up the gears is no issue. The T9 was rebuild in between the swap and at first I thought it was due to that, but I've had the gearbox re-checked by the builder and it came back with a clean bill of health. Last year someone on here mentioned that he had the same issue with a top mounted pedal box and he discovered that the clutch pedal was coming to a premature stop against the steering column mount, and by slightly bending the clutch pedal he gained more pedal travel. I checked, and sure enough, the same issue. I finally modified the pedal in the same way and gained about a cm of more travel, but unfortunately I still have the same issue. I've never set the clutch cable up myself as there was always someone more knowledgable than me for that. So, I'm looking for advice on how to set the clutch cable up. Is it advisable to put the car on axle stands and then keep the car on there for testing?
  12. I've never heard of these self tinning splices, but they look mighty useful! Having redone my complete wiring 2 years ago, it's already turning into a mess again, just by replacing components here and there. Keeping these in mind for the future
  13. Not Hampshire, but Northamptonshire... Northampton Motorsport still has the laptop and skills to map the MBE 956. They did mine last year. Not sure you can rectify the emissions much with a new map though... Is yours a Q plate? Or normal plate? Cat or no cat?
  14. Bacon pancakes... yum!
  15. The Xflow is highly praised for its sound, earning its nickname 'mighty Xflow'. And it has a penchant to leave a breadcrumb trail of oil everywhere... but they all do that Sir!
  16. You'll be bored to death by the time you hit another 10K miles I personally have not heard anything bad about them; on the contrary, they are supposed to be bomb proof... Mine certainly was, but I would never go back, no matter how much 'charisma' it had
  17. Just to close the thread, I've just bought an Air Hawk Max (has a longer air hose than the Pro). Thanks Ian for the suggestion!
  18. February 21st, 2019 Spend: £0.00 The sun is out and the urge to go out in the Westfield again is growing. Time to start cracking! Agreed to borrow @Marto303's sliding hammer so that I could remove the half shafts. What a difference the right tool makes to a job . They were out in 5 minutes, although I could not remove the OS without also removing the brake drum back plate. And that means replacing the brake fluid as I've had to disconnect the lines. Oh well, just another job to do... February 23rd, 2019 Spend: £0.00 Sometimes all you need is a second pair of eyes. @dombanks had kindly offered to machine down the half shafts at his place of work and when I popped round to hand them over he had a good look at them and said that it looked like there were some kind of collars fitted on the hub. And you know what? He's only bl**** right! Spend 10 minutes with an angle grinder and off they came. Aarghhh! February 24th, 2019 Spend: £0.00 Whilst waiting for parts to refit the half shafts I focussed my attention on the fuel tank, and the non-working gauge. Emptied as much as the pump would into my sons Mini Cooper S and removed the half bodged VDO arm that I tie-wrapped onto the V8 pump. After thinking long and hard I've decided to fit a VDO compatible (so the sales blurb says) reed/pole sender most commonly used in boats. Does mean I need to drill another hole in the top of the tank... Also removed the front cycle wings so I can re-fit my DRL/indicators in the new cycle wings after my little accident last year. Last month: £ 8749.45This month: £ 0.00 ----------+Total: £ 8749.45
  19. Cheers Ian, that's a left field suggestion I hadn't considered yet.
  20. Yes, I've seen the Kismet (there's this huge thread on PH about restoring these old pumps). That's the sort of build quality I'm looking for, although I will draw the line at £50 for a pump
  21. I've got a 12V pump and I find it cumbersome to operate, what with a cable length that can only reach one side of the car (just). And inflating the Westfields tyres is impossible without having another car near... And as much as I would love an air compressor with the associate tools that can be used with it, it's pretty useless if I need to bring each car around to a socket near the garage (most cars are parked on the road, quite a distance away from the garage) just to inflate the tyres. Guess I must be the only one who prefers an analogue tool
  22. With 4 cars in the family to look after and I seem to be buying a foot pump each year as the quality of them is shocking. Used to buy from Halfords, but my last pump (Michelin double barrel) lasted not even 6 months before a barrel blew up. Shame, cos the previous Halfords pump (can't remember what brand) lasted years before the frame ultimately gave way. So I'm looking for a proper decent solid foot pump... anyone has a recommendation? I did consider a bike pump, but the gauges are geared towards the higher PSI that bike tyres use, so it's not so good for determining the car tyre pressures with...
  23. But as I was browsing ebay, came across these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-H4-3-Pin-Headlight-Replacement-Repair-Bulb-Holder-Connector-Plug-Wire-Socket/263014921815?epid=1437932605&hash=item3d3ce93657:g:lwoAAOSwB-1Yx91n:rk:3:pf:0 They look mighty similar...
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