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BCF

WSCC Member
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BCF last won the day on February 23 2017

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About BCF

  • Rank
    2016 WSCC Speed Series Novice Champion
  • Birthday 16/08/1982

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield-less hanger-on
  • My Location
    MK

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  1. Look on the BPS website, find a registered Clinical Psychologist in your local area and reach out to them. Be prepared as they are expensive - but like all things, you get what you pay for. Counsellors/therapists are someone to talk to, Clinical Psychologists will help you understand why you are where you are and how to break the cycle. Invest more in your mind and I promise you, it will be the best money you've ever spent. For reference, to qualify as a Clinical Psychologist takes 7 years of academia and at least 3 years of professional experience. A counsellor or therapist can set up tomorrow. So you really do get what you pay for, but in the best possible way, and from personal experience, if you commit to it, it can change your life.
  2. In which case, even better driving!! Bet you were glad to get back past!
  3. Good driving sir! That was a great watch. Hearing the engine and gear changes of the red car through your camera from @13mins onwards was nuts.
  4. There is indeed another element to this story - the other tyre blew out on my way home I hadn't had an opportunity to replace the spare, so it left me stranded in an emergency layby on the M6. Took 2 hours and 20 mins for the recovery to get to me, and I negotiated for them to take the trailer in to secure overnight storage. Booked myself in to a Premier Inn and went to bed confident of finding a replacement set of tyres in the morning. Next day, after an hour of calls, not a single place had either a trailer tyre, or a 13" road tyre in stock. Fortunately, the absolute legend @maurici stepped in, gave me a pair of 13" continental road tyres and managed to fit them using his own tyre machine. What a hero! I'd still be in Crewe without him! I wasn't convinced they'd make it home. My gross trailer weight was about 100kgs over the tyre rating, but with no other choice, I tensed up and set off for home. Clearly, I made it back fine with no drama, and also found the trailer was much more stable on 185 profile tyres than the 165 that were on there. But they will be coming off immediately and proper tyres going back on. Next question - tyre pressure. Brian James manual says 35psi for 165/13 profile tyres, but they always had an unhealthy looking bulge in the sidewall above the tyre/road contact point. I've recently been increasing pressure and on Saturday put them up to 45psi - I wonder if this caused them to overheat and contribute to the failure (if you overlook the fact that the tyres were 17 years old - date stamps were on the inside and not visible 🤦‍♂️)? Any thoughts on trailer tyre pressures on 13" rims?
  5. That's why I specifically mentioned they're not suitable for a single axle trailer. A typical load rating of a standard road tyre is around 550kgs, particularly on 13" or smaller tyres. For most purposes and for twin axle trailers, that's more than enough, but for a single axle trailer with a gross capacity of 1300kgs, it's not suitable.
  6. Normal car tyres are 4 ply. Trailer tyres must be a minimum of 6 ply and rated to the towing weight capacity of your trailer. You definitely must not put normal road tyres on a single axle trailer!
  7. Is the diff a torsen? Any idea on diff ratio? Cheers pal.
  8. What size wheels and tyres are you running now @Andrew? I'm thinking a slight raise in trailer height will help the hitch angle...
  9. Spoiler alert - there's no drama! 😆 Just thought I would round out and answer once and for all a common myth - that a tyre puncture or blowout on a single axle trailer would be devastating, scary, dangerous or in any way concerning. Despite reassurances from @John previously, others seem to hold a belief it would be some kind of issue. Well I can now confirm - it's no problem. Just had a tyre blowout in spectacular style on my single axle Brian James trailer. It was on the M6 heading north for the three sisters sprint. There was a slightly unusual noise, then a feeling of braking resistance from the trailer - looked in the mirrors to see a rather spectacular and somewhat beautiful display of tyre carcass showering down the hard shoulder! 😄 Pulled over to the hard shoulder easily, jumped out the van, chuckled at what remained of the tyre, then set to replacing it with the spare. 10 minutes later I was back on the road, all ok. The only scary bit was keeping half an eye on the oncoming traffic to make sure there were no errant lorries careening down the hard shoulder 😳 So, for anyone that holds this as a concern or is choosing a trailer and avoiding a single axle I say to you, fear not! It's all good! 😊
  10. Ps. I might not have explained that very well, I'm sure @AdamR can do a better job!!
  11. Hi Tim, sure, it's because of the camber. The amount of tyre in contact with the ground, particularly in braking, was the same, because the camber limits the amount of tyre that can physically make contact with the ground. If you're running any front camber, you'll probably notice that only a certain amount of your front tyres is wearing from the inside toward the centre. Provided a smaller width tyre isn't less than this overall contact patch, the amount of tyre touching the ground is the same. Plus lighter! That was sprinting and hill climbing, however I've transitioned the theory over to our trackday car. Running 175 width tyres both Adam and I put in very competitive times, beating some much "quicker" machinery, at a recent Cadwell sprint to win the class in a very basic car. That's vs the 195 profile I typically run on the car (and the 205+ size tyres other people seem to think are necessary). Hope that helps.
  12. Lots of reasons - weight, overall grip needed at the front, ride height rake front to rear etc etc. I used to run 215 all round, then moved to 215 rear and 185 front and went quicker. Had to change ride height to suit, lost no tyre contact patch size but lost a couple of kilos. Went quicker everywhere on that set up.
  13. Good bit of small progress today. Thanks to @Marto303 for providing some wire, I have produced the connections to run the IAT sensor (enabling me to delete the factory MAF set up) and the electronic boost control. Below is a photo of my first ever attempt at wiring a connector! I could have just hacked the wires into the car, but I want it all to stay "factory clean" so am using connectors that enable me to connect into the car's loom. It means a lot more wire, but I will run it neatly around the back of the engine bay so hopefully it'll still look pretty clean. I have two separate "looms" at the moment, but will combine them for the install. I have wrapped them individually in loom tape, and will then wrap them again to get them into one loom. Quite satisfying doing it this way, I must say. Any issue with my plans that those far more experienced than I can see? @Kit Car Electronics? I also pulled the broken downpipe off the turbo. It's a total mess. A great representation of why you shouldn't use exhaust wrap if you can avoid it. I'm not certain this can be fixed, will take it all to Martin for his prognosis, but I don't have much confidence. I think this is going to be a bigger set back than I'd like, as the availability of t25 downpipes seems incredibly scarce. I really, really don't want to invest in a new manifold, turbo and downpipe, as that's a waaaay bigger cost than I have budgeted for, so I'll keep looking. I also pulled the intake pipe off closest to the inlet manifold, so all round superstar @AdamR can very kindly turn down an IAT boss and weld it into the pipe for me. Hero!
  14. Perfect colour that Gary! Looks like a mega lobster!!
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