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About Deanspoors

  • Rank
  • Birthday 03/01/1987

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  • Car Details
    Westy Supabusa
    Audi S4 Avant
  • My Location
    County Durham

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  1. The Westfield anti roll bars are in my opinion, too stiff for road driving. I've also seen two Westfields with cracked chassis' at the front end, both were fitted with front ARB's. I run Playskool anti-roll bars on my Megabusa, these are softer and you lose a lot of the darting you get with the westfield ARB, but still can get a bit movement on a bumpy road. A lot of people actually disconnect one side of the ARB when using their cars on the road and only connect them when on track.
  2. Not going to get easier than an ETB digidash Lite https://www.etbinstruments.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=106_108&product_id=171
  3. I will have to rebuild the setup once I have a replacement pulley to check for runout on the pulley, but the bearing collar is supposed to be setup to zero the runout at the end of the bolt, so although the pulley may be out of align the collar stays aligned and run smoothly inside the bearing support. Obviously if the pulley isn't true this maybe causing vibration which won't be helping matters!
  4. ok, thanks, this bolt is on the starter motor side. I don't think it's actually used for anything as standard, but I see what you're saying, i'll definitely try and tighten it up to 40 or so ft/lbs.
  5. I wasn't given a torque by TTS, just tight! given that it's loctited in place, I just tightened it hand tight with a allen key.
  6. Hi, yes it's threadlocked and it had to be drilled and easy-outed to get the remaining bolt out of the crank, so definitely didn't come loose on either occasion.
  7. I can't say for certain what material the bolt is as it was supplied by TTS. The bolt is shearing where it exits the crankshaft. TTS explained there has previously been an issue with slightly out of true cranks due to them bending from starter kickback. This makes the pulley run slightly out of true and the supporting bearing disintegrates in minutes. To get over this they fit a bearing collar which fits under the bolt head and has a larger hole to allow it to be adjusted under the bolt head, adjusting and DTI'ing until it is true, this collar then runs in a bearing. So although the pulley is not true the bearing collar is, so yes it is supported, but not the most ideal solution. TTS have not been very helpful at all to be honest. Charged £100 for the replacement parts the first time and £180 the second time, when it seems to me that its a poor design. As can maybe be seen the pulley is connected to the drive spigot by only two small drive pins, which also shear once there is a failure of the main bolt (or possibly vice-versa). I'm thinking of drilling an additional two holes so there are 4 drive pins and trying to find a better bolt, so a 12.9 self coloured bolt possibly?
  8. Hi, To all the engineers out there, I've had a bit of trouble with my supercharged hayabusa setup recently, one of the issues being the supercharger crank pulley bolt shearing on two separate occasions, and destroying the pulley along with it. The supplied bolt was a M10x1 12.9 zinc type I believe. What type of bolt is available which will resist shearing more than the original?
  9. Sorry Colin, it is now provisionally sold. Will get back to you if the sale falls through. Dean
  10. heres a before and after (not mine)
  11. Colin, i'm not 100% sure, I think it's an 750 SRAD, but must be injection, not carbs. The air box has a pie slice cut out of the middle to remove the original air inlets and then plastic welded back together. The outlet is then changed to the hole on the top. It quietens the induction noise significantly. I do actually still have this box and now the car is supercharged I don't need it. I paid £65 I think for it, would sell for £50 if you're interested in one already made up.
  12. Now on eBay, 5 day auction; https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Race-Technology-DL1-Data-Logger-Mk2-/113071719950
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