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jonjh1964

WSCC Member
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jonjh1964 last won the day on March 14 2018

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About jonjh1964

  • Rank
    Advanced Motorist
  • Birthday 03/11/1964

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  • Website URL
    http://2js-westfield-build.blogspot.co.uk/

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    FW Zetec 2.0L and Eleven
  • My Location
    Yeovil, Somerset

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  1. The bit with the wiper spindles bolted through
  2. This is how the standard Westfield chassis loom side, low and high beam are wired. For the venom I put a wire link from the feed to the low beam output and wired the high beam to the shield solenoid. As Quinten states this can all be switched through relays - this is what I did to allow me to have a ‘flash’ when I fitted the freewheel.
  3. Rob, The fact that high beam also illumates the low beam may mean you don’t need to rewire the high/low switch. However, the LED units can have their own internal switching so this can’t be guaranteed. My approach would be to setup a bench test with a battery and a couple of switches and work out exactly how they work and then replicate this with the car wiring. Having done a venom to LED conversion recently it was not difficult to reinstate the original chassis loom and then replace the 2 connectors (head light & indicator) with a single 6 pin ecoseal one to tidy everything up. I’m currently running the DRLs from the sidelight switch rather that having them powered from the ignition which may cause me a problem at MOT time so I’m investigating a controller that dims the DRLs, all this will be under the dash. Jon
  4. Worth checking that your fuel sender is working and moving freely now - before the bodywork goes on. Also make sure all the connections to the fuel tank are good with plenty of plumbers PTFE tape. I found out the hard way on first full fuel fill at a pre-IVA MOT leaving me a lot of rework in very little time.
  5. I fitted about 5 years ago and can't remember whether it was because of the IAT heat transfer or the S2000 TB sticking but there was lots of posts about the benefits of such a gasket back then I probably bought the cheapest I could find; the Burton Power one (Pt No FZ710A) now fitted looks like the one you describe
  6. TJ - the old motto ‘Buy cheap buy twice’, quality brands from known suppliers from now on.
  7. After 6 years of ownership I decided that I needed some more power without breaking the bank. The engine is a standard Zetec Blacktop, Jenvey TBs, ARP bolts, TTV lightweight flywheel and had been mapped by NMS which included a ‘swing’ to get the best out of the standard camshafts. After discussions with Troy at NMS and my local area members I decided upgraded camshafts was the way ahead. I didn’t want to have to do any further work on the internals and also wanted usable power for day to day driving so choose Newman Phase 2 camshafts. The final decision was largely because at around £600 with vernier pulleys, they were a fair bit cheaper than other makes. Fitting them was straight forward as they are timed to the standard pin and bar Ford timings. I checked and reshimmed the lifters, removing the camshafts rather than getting hold of the special tool and also replaced the camshaft seals, cambelt, pulley and tensioner. Newman’s installation instructions states that it’s not necessary to do any set ‘run-in’ but I decided that the standard 2k/20 mins was easy enough to do and took advice that it was good practice. The next step was a trip to NMS which was quite disappointing, a modest increase in power below 4K but then a significant drop in power. After lots of head scratching, adjustments and testing to rule out other potential causes I decided to call it a day and retired to contemplate. The following weekend I removed the TBs, the only thing left after all the diagnostics at NMS, and found that the gasket had melted and been sucked into the manifold and was significantly restricting cylinders 1&4. After discussions with Malcolm (Dorset’s motor engineering guru) I replaced the gasket with on from Burton Power. After a run out it was obvious that the engine was now producing more power so I booked another visit to NMS. After a month’s wait the second visit to NMS was yesterday. Once the car was warmed up Troy started with a power run that confirmed that all was well. After an hour or so of fettling of the fuel and ignition maps he declared all was good and printed out a comparison of pre and post camshafts (also a new non-cat exhaust) Very pleased with the results, Troy’s verdict was that Piper 285s would have given a few more bhp at the top end but not as much torque at the bottom. All in all an enjoyable upgrade to fit, expanding my engineering experience and a reasonable increase in performance for the ~£1200 ‘investment’. However, the original ‘trigger’ was a feeling that I needed some more power was more to losing 15-20 horses due to the inlet restrictions so if I’d found that first I might have got away with only spending £35 on a new gasket. When it comes to bragging rights with a car that weighs in at 615kgs It’s now over the magic 300bhp/ton.
  8. The top/bottom bleed nipples are only because the callipers can be fitted to different cars, you should use the top ones.
  9. Chris, thread on the block is 1/4 NPT
  10. Chris, my approach to track days: Give the car a good check over - fluids, pads, tyres etc before you go - if you’ve got standard pads and do long fast runs you could do a year+ of normal wear in a day. Check the organisers rules usually full face helmet, long sleeved shirt & trousers take your Driving Licence etc, think about getting some instruction. Make yourself a tool kit and some spares - if you’re going as a group agree who’s taking what - not unusual to see people changing wheels, pads, discs, repacking exhausts etc on the day and the paddocks are mostly friendly so if you need a tool or spare ask. Take a seat and umbrella - ideally if in a group a gazebo between you. Fit up with fuel just before you get to the track and have 20-40litres in fuel cans or be prepared to drive off at lunchtime to refuel - expect mpg to be <3rd of what you get normally. Build up on runs - I aim for a warm up lap (or 2) followed by ~8 hot laps and then a cool down lap (or 2) and then stop for 20 mins to check the car over and let things cool down (including me). Monitor temps and pressures throughout better to stop and let the car recover then be towed off. If you don’t have a trailer remember you have to drive home at the end especially later in the day when everyone and their cars are starting to get tired. Above all enjoy yourself... Jon
  11. March meeting to be held at the usual venue "The Crown Inn" Bridport 20:00 hrs Thursday 7th. Hope to see you there
  12. Daughter got the same forward vison impaired for a jelly bean air freshener. You can buy self adhesive heat shield sheets on next day delivery from Amazon in various sizes. Self adhesive heat shield
  13. I got picked up for the headlight mounting bolts (that the wires go through) projecting outside of the spats - inspector allowed me to fit a plastic bolts cover - split and with the top cut off like the upper wishbone locking nut. Nice looking car - good luck with the IVA
  14. First the water pump on a zetec is not driven by cambelt you can discount the need to change the cambelt from fear of a water pump failure. Changing the cambelt on a zetec is straight forward - lock TDC with a pin and bar across the back of the cams - loosen the main cam pulleys and remove the idler and adjustable pulleys. Replace the cambelt, fit new idler and adjustable pulleys, and set the adjustable pulley, remove the bar and pin - job done.
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