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Richard Houlgate

Speed Series Competitor
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    137
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13 In Build

About Richard Houlgate

  • Rank
    Learner Driver

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  • My Location
    Shrewsbury

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  1. These are the straps that are currently used to hold the tank down. And the tank holds about 7 gallons so is big I'm sure that the thin aluminium isn't strong enough to hold the tank so need to replace it with something. My first idea was steel straps (I have some 1.5mm thick by 30mm wide steel) but a friend suggested using ratchet straps. I think that this sounds a good idea, if I buy a pair of good quality straps they should be just as strong as steel and would be much easier to fit. But is there something I haven't thought of or don't understand?
  2. Still for sale, in excellent condition and ready to be towed anywhere. I used to pull it easily with my 2 litre Ford Mondeo diesel, with the Audi A6 Allroad you don't know you have it behind you.
  3. Thanks, but the water radiator fills up all the space in the nose cone. It seems I have two options: Mount the cooler in front of the radiator at the top. This is the best place for it, but I would be reluctant to suspend the extra weight on the radiator so some complex brackerty would be involved to suspend the cooler from the chassis. Much easier, mount it low down behind the radiator just in front of the engine with a small air scoop to encourage the air to flow through. I'm tempted to try the latter as it would be much easier to do and see if it kept the oil temperature at the correct level. PS very smart floor, what is it?
  4. My car has a 2.3 Duratec. Apart from the Speed series I plan to do some track days and am told that it's important to keep the oil of the Duratec cooled - around 100-110 deg C. As it can reach this temperature during sprints I plan to fit a 13 row oil cooler and have fitted a thermostatic take off plate behind the oil filter. But where is the best place to fit the cooler? It would be easiest behind the radiator low down. This would avoid complicated brackery and any tendency for the oil to drain back to the sump. Would it be effective there? Should I be concerned that the cooler may drain back to the sump?
  5. The new boot GIR64673398 is available from Burton and Demon Tweeks
  6. Thanks for all your replies. I should have been more specific when I talked of side panels. I mean carbon fibre panels which cover the space frame where you sit. I take it the adhesive referred to is this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362420965935 I have taken the body off the chassis and split it by the rear wings with the idea of having removable sides and rear panels. I now have to work out how to attach the side and rear panels - how do you guys do it please?
  7. I need a new clutch boot for the clutch master cylinder but ebay searches find nothing, the cylinder photo is below Can this battery be used horizontally? I have taken the side panels off the car for ease of access and now need to put them back. Is the quality of the pop rivets I use important? The panels were previously riveted and glued, i would like to do the same. Any thoughts on what sort of glue to use?
  8. Thanks Simon. Do the AR1s explain why you were faster than me?(!!) Plenty of info here http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre-Type/Passenger-Car-Summer-Trackday-and-Competition-Tyres/
  9. I will be competing with my 2.3 Duratec H pattern gearbox road going (taxed and insured) Westfield in class B. The car has worn Toyo Proxes R888 185/60 R13 80V at the front and 205/60 R13 86V at the rear, these need replacing. I understand that I have to take a tyre from list 1B, but it's a long list! Which is the best option please? And where is the best place to buy them?
  10. I have entered and am looking forward to it providing I get the car back together!
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