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Kevin Wood

WSCC Member
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About Kevin Wood

  • Rank
    Advanced Motorist

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  • Car Details
    SEiW 2.0 Zetec Megasquirt
  • My Location
    Alton, Hampshire

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  1. Oh, and regarding the pressure relief valve, these usually result in poor pressure when hot if they stick. Normally, when the oil is cold, the higher viscosity means the pressure is good even with the bypass fully open. The fact that yours is worst when cold is strange. Might be worth dropping the sump and checking that the pickup pipe hasn't cracked and that the strainer is clear - once you've verified that the gauge is reading OK.
  2. Gauge sounds OK. Some of them are back to front, i.e. reading maximum when disconnected and zero when grounded. That doesn't mean the sender is OK, though. These can get a bit iffy with age. For peace of mind, I think I would get a cheap oil pressure gauge and use this to double check the readings. Something like this perhaps: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Engine-Pressure-Tester-0-100psi/dp/B01CI2TAV2/ref=sr_1_4/262-0373908-6280729?ie=UTF8&qid=1552735803&sr=8-4&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge
  3. A friend of mine had a close shave when he bought a 2nd hand car and melted a hole in the side of the plastic fuel tank on the way back from collecting it. He thought it had been a little thirsty, then, when filling it up with petrol, he realised it was pouring out all over the forecourt. The exhaust back box had holed and the heatshield was missing. The hot gases had melted a large hole in the side of the tank. The tank might be OK with a sound exhaust system, but it only takes a single failure to cause quite a dangerous scenario.
  4. I too got fed up with modern pumps. They are so fplimsy that they're a waste of time and money. I bought an old Dunlop "Major" from an antique shop. Bit of cooking oil to soften the leather seal on the piston and it works a treat. Won't break that in a hurry! Was only about 20 quid and I probably saved the poor thing from being turned into a table lamp by some hipster. A compressor works OK at home but I often need a pump when out and about as I tend to end up towing things that have been left in a field neglected. Some of the OEM supplied electric pumps from cars without spare wheels are a lot better than those available at motor factors. I have one, again from an antique shop. Not sure what car it came from, but looks Japanese in manufacture. Nice chunky low revving motor and pump abput the size of a wiper motor. A mate of mine has a Porsche one that is a work of art. Might be worth asking at a breakers yard?
  5. Now, that's a nice idea. I tend to buy oil in 20L plastic containers and am forever pouring it all over the garage floor!
  6. My front uprights came from a Hyundai Stellar when I did my build back in 1999/2000. IIRC, they were mostly Cortina since Hyundai used to build the Cortina under licence.
  7. If by starter you mean the starter solenoid feed, then I'd expect it to need syubstantially more than 5A. Car solenoids can typically draw 30A or more. As said, size the fuses according to the wiring.
  8. Welcome. I'm only up the road in Four Marks. If you'd like a 2nd pair of eyes to be cast over a potential purchase I'm sure any of us will oblige.
  9. The only issue you might come across is that the exhaust can't be removed with the engine in-situ without removing the studs anyway.
  10. I thought the followers were all the same on the silver top, but it's been a long time since I had one stripped down. The difference in height may simply be that one is slightly more full of oil than the other.
  11. I'll keep my ear to the ground for anything around this way (Four Marks).
  12. My VDO was playing up at this year's MOT and the tester just entered the mileage as "not legible". Only the speedometer function is actually required to work. I tend to put it in the airing cuboard over the winter and when I need the mileage for my insurance renewal.
  13. I fitted RDX Land Rover LED indicator lights to my front indicator pods. Need a little fettling to fit them in the pods but they might be a preferable option to using LED bulbs in the existing fittings. I actually used them at the rear too, for indicator and brake / sidelights. I'm very pleased with them.
  14. As a first step, I would look for areas on light throttle where the Lambda is significantly lower than 14.7:1 rather than trying to lean everything off until it misfires. Remember that production cars with cats don't generally go above 14.7 as emissions will suffer. I think going much leaner gives you diminishing returns but can easily hurt drivability as, to get throttle response, you have to suddenly richen the mixture a great deal, and often the acceleration enrichment is hit and miss anyway. You can't hurt anything, though, so have a play and get used to it.
  15. Standard Zetec plugs are platinum tipped anyway, so will take a lot of abuse and last well.
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