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the stoat

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the stoat last won the day on August 24 2013

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About the stoat

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    Advanced Motorist

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  • Car Details
    Swindon's low powered orange one

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  1. You probably need 2 one for 10nm to sensible torque levels and a higher range one for hub nuts etc. I have found the Halfords Advanced range to be very good value if you know someone with a trade card.
  2. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    Thanks, you learn something every day
  3. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    Can I ask why you would consider running larger tolerances? I have done a few engine rebuilds now and have always gone for the clearance recommended by the manufacturer.
  4. To stop Dommo getting a big head I will point out the speed data is in km/h
  5. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    Great minds, I was going to use the everything through the Dash2 approach (I even bought a Dash2 compatible oil pressure sensor from you) and changed my mind. I was concerned that a low fuel warning could clash with a low oil pressure as both could occur with vigorous cornering. I then went for a standalone oil monitoring gauge that does flash red on impending doom but also illuminates a very bright red light right in my field of vision.
  6. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    One thing I forgot to say, but have said many times in the past, is fit the biggest brightest warning lamp you can find and connect it to a pressure switch with a sensible trigger point, for example 21psi. This will let you see if you have a pressure issue, hopefully before damage occurs. It is all to easy to miss a pressure decrease as most gauges are damped so you can miss it, especially when you may be hard on the brakes when a decrease occurs. My belief is controlling temperatures and pressures, and monitoring, is critical to on track longevity. Also treat your car as individual as weird stuff occurs. For example another member has many more BHP than me, has an intercooler infront of the radiator, that is the same radiator I have, and has no cooling issues. I had to duct mine to get it to cool effectively yet he did not.
  7. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    My unscientific test of a dry sump pump is that they flow a lot. You check the oil level with the engine running, never ever blip the throttle when you have forgotten to put the tank cap back on. The surge of oil goes remarkably high!
  8. the stoat

    Duratec woes!

    I agree with this, having played with my IR thermometer, as temperature drop between inlet and outlet of the dry sump. Also without a Laminova to add heat in I was getting oil 30 degrees less than the coolant when on the motorway.
  9. Yes no covers. You already just purchased the SBD tensioner, it is called a water pump You need to purchase another belt pulley the same as the current pulley without the tensioner mechanism. Using the new pulley in place of the tensioner one. You then tension by rotating the water pump, the easy way is to buy a water pump spanner which are about £10.
  10. I will have a rummage and see if I have any tensioner bolts left. I no longer use them as I have SBDs tensioner triangulation kit as I operate a little bit more revs than the standard engine.
  11. For the water pump purchase give Autovaux a call and ask for their higher quality pump and a gasket. No need for any sealant. Remember that the crank pulley bolt is single use so you will need a new one, as is the tensioner one. Other advice above is spot on, but as it is single use do not torque and angle tighten the tensioner bolt until you are happy with the belt tension. For the front seal also check the sleeve that goes over the crank nose and forms the inner sealing surface is not worn, this was causing a leak on my previous engine. To replace it is a simple pull out then tap the new one home with an appropriately sized socket after oiling up the seal.
  12. It is a case of wheels off, caliper off, dust cover prised off and then undo the hub nut and pull off the disc and bearing. Count how many turns it takes to remove the hub nut as that will get you into the rough place for putting it back on. You then need to check the float on the bearing with a DTI gauge, from memory I think you need between 1 and 3 thou, but please check this. By float I mean backwards and forwards motion of the disc assembly, which you adjust by tightening or slackening the hub nut. I know it is strange not making the hub nuts tight, but if you do the bearings will not last long. Obviously grease up the new bearing before installation. The but I cannot remember is if the bearings are press fit or not. I hope this sets you off in the right direction.
  13. Hand them over I will fix that in less than a day!
  14. Nope no stuck caliper, even wear across all 4 pads. My theory is they do not like getting too hot and if they do wear rate goes very high. I only have solid discs. As I only have meagre power I have to maximise time on throttle, so do brake hard. I too was amazed how quickly I went through DS2500s. To give a comparison I get 3 to 4 track days from Wilwood polyAs.
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