Jump to content


WSCC Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


jim_l last won the day on October 4 2015

jim_l had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

48 In Build

About jim_l

  • Rank
    Average Joe Driver

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    1992 SEiW C20XE
  • My Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. jim_l

    Rear springs and dampers

    I guess, if , at the ride height your damper is mid way in that 11" to 14" travel , then you have the right length damper. If not you may be short on bump or rebound travel. My rear springs, as set-up by Pro-Comp, are 175 too. Jim
  2. jim_l

    Rear springs and dampers

    Before I sent them off to be rebuilt I would check you have the right length damper. My Protech on an (earlier) SEiW are 15" fully extended and a little below 14" at ride height. I am surprised yours can bottom out , it would seem more likely they would 'top out' i.e. hit full extension on the rebound, if they were too short. Spring length can be more flexible than damper length, give the range of adjustment, but damper length has to be reasonably close. If I understand correctly - You measure what your damper length needs to be at ride height, then you buy a damper that extends to an inch and half longer than this (for rebound) and compresses to a minimum a inch and half shorter, for bump travel. I am sure someone will come along and sanity check that, Jim
  3. jim_l

    Windscreen uprights

    Welcome back! I have, but it would be difficult for me to get it to you in the next 6 weeks, I will put a pic up just in case nothing else comes up. It has no mirrors now, the ones on the pic had rusted badly. Jim
  4. I have done it, albeit a couple of decades ago, and if I'm honest we took too many risks , on Ben Nevis in a whiteout (in May!) suddenly realising you are two meters from a big drop! Only really finding the summit due to a fortunate but short lived clearing in the weather. Be prepared to turn back and/or wait for the weather. Forget about doing it at your own pace, you want 3 ideally that want to stick together, top of Ben Nevis in April, and sometimes Snowdon too, not places I'd recommend you go on your own (maybe Alfascozzesi will do Ben Nevis with you as a guide!) Easy routes or not, map reading skills and some practise runs essential, you can get very lost on any of the three. Jim
  5. jim_l

    Lower front wishbone

    I have a pair, not much point in leaving myself with one. Jim Nothing wrong with the ball joints either when I removed them, one needs a dust cover. Lots of people gone wide track though so you should be able to get one that matches your current/top ones. Surprised you haven't had more responses.
  6. jim_l

    New Member in the North West

    and Tom (original poster) … a) Joining here , ideally before you buy, and after you have bought, best money you will ever spend! b) Get around and meet some owners and see some cars - a great investment of your time. Jim
  7. jim_l

    New Member in the North West

    Rare for me to head into North Liverpool but it might have been me, quite a bright blue, aeroscreen and silver minilights. I did join the Wirral lads on their 'first Tuesday of the month' gathering a couple of years ago, good bunch, keep meaning to go again but haven't got around to it. I have had it 11 years and done 8000 miles , so always contemplating selling it. Have to make a call in April, do more with it, or sell. Edited to add - spent a pound on it for every mile I have done in it too! Jim
  8. jim_l

    Width passenger seat - wide body

    Just to confirm , for my 1991 supplied SEiW with type 9, drivers and passenger side are 43cm, not narrowing significantly within the area the seat moves, but that is WITHOUT CARPETS, A 42cm JK seat would be a very tight fit!
  9. jim_l

    Width passenger seat - wide body

    I can physically check later but I think these are the dimensions of the seat area - same both sides.
  10. jim_l

    New Member in the North West

    There are a bunch from the Wirral there tomorrow, am assuming you have seen that thread?
  11. jim_l

    New Member in the North West

    Welcome from Liverpool, there are a few on the Wirral (active member group there, meetings and days out) but not aware of any others actually in Liverpool. Let me know if you want a good look around one, or a passenger ride. Jim
  12. jim_l

    Rear shocks

    I Think I have some AVO's that are 13.75, let me check the dimensions and get some pics today. Jim.
  13. jim_l

    Early SEiW clutch cable operation

    You are probably right, simply use a shorter pin, a bolt might be weaker used that way and it takes a surprising amount of force to operate these clutches. What surprised me is that the SBD clutch (Kevlar plate) operates fully with only 10mm of cable travel, so quite a short pedal action too. Note that there are a lot of similar looking Ford clutch cables but I am on my second wrong one so it may be worth just going for the slightly expensive one Westfield advertise. We need a minimum length but also the difference between inner and outer lengths is important too, the one I have now the inner is too long and I don't have enough adjustment to take it up. Capri 1.6 seems to get mentioned most when you search for 'what clutch cable' Cheers, Jim
  14. jim_l

    Electrical query

    Matthew, the early manuals and (optional) Westfield looms featured a fuse box (8 to 10 fuses covering the basics, including most items that you can switch from the dash) If it isn't obvious it could be under the scuttle. If you can engineer yourself upside down in the seat and look up into the scuttle you should be able to find them , follow the wiring behind the switches. Jim
  15. Had to replace my clutch cable. The mechanism is early SEiW where pedal operation 'pushes' the cable outer rather than pulling the cable inner.. The cable end on these was fixed to the pedal box with a single bracket rather than a clevis I don't like the way the banjo slides to the end up against the split pin when the clutch is operated (pic 2) but I was thinking, given that the mechanism is a straight pull and the cable end doesn't move or rotate, I could just bolt this banjo to the bracket couldn't I? Also there isn't an effective stop mechanism , I am pushing up against the stretched cable, which is just going to go again, what was the stop mechanism on these early models? It may have originally been pedal travel limited but the clutch I have fitted operates over a much shorter pedal travel. Cheers, Jim.

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.