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  1. Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary

    Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary


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  2. Thrustyjust


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  3. Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO

    Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO


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  4. Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO

    Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/01/12 in Posts

  1. 18 points
    Today has been a good day, I now have a car that's ready to go on track Jobs today were fit the rear part of the tub, including some DIY arch extensions (the classic Mini ones I bought just didn't look / fit right), make a screen, fit seat and harness, make spacers for cage and fit it, flash the tweaked map into the ECU, fit the Minilite wheels ready for track day. Extensions - cut a big chunk off the standard arches to leave an angled edge, then riveted some 1mm HDPE in position, located in slots at the front and rear. Plenty of clearance now! Headrest made up from an old bicycle handlebar stem, a lump of plastic I found in a skip, and some foam I found in a parcel that arrived at work. View from the drivers seat... better than I anticipated, the airbox isn't obtrusive really and with the lowline bonnet it drops away nicely. Fixed cycle wing benefit - always in view and perfect 'corner markers' for assisting with apex-hunting Russ kept banging on about speed holes so I devoted one to you mate And I saved the best for last... this is with my 73kg in the drivers seat, 18-19kg of fuel on board, all other fluids, and wheels that are 8kg a set heavier than the slicks / OZ ones... (corner weights not set). So I make that, for the car alone on the slicks with a bit of fuel, under 385kg ready to rock So chuffed all the hard work seems to have paid off! Rear weight looks around 55-56% depending on fuel level which is exactly what I'd estimated, so hopefully the brake bias calculations will be bob on too bl**** can't wait for Saturday
  2. 17 points
    Well today was planned to be a visit during the Xmas break. But a combination of rubbish weather , a re-occurring cold which I felt I would be more than embarrassed if I passed it on , young family duties ( not me anymore hurrah !) , eventually I got to meet half of my area organiser Tim. He is a whole person and glad to say I managed to get there today. Sadly , although the weather looked promising , I chickened out and took the family wagon. Which actually was wise, with the heavy rain, snow and hail that would have caught me out on the way home. So, today , may I introduce Tim Reid After a brew and what seemed like an assault course that anyone with feet bigger than a 10, you would not find a standing place in the garage . Tim is on his way through his engine change from a 2 ltr Zetec black top to a ecoboost 1600. Some might think this as a bit of a loss of capacity being wrong to do, but the ecoboost is the new toy on the (engine) block. The transplant is far from straight forward, with more sensors and fly by wire controls than you could shake a stick at. Really not for the feint hearted and I take my hat of to him of basically starting again with this, the Mk3 incarnation of the car. So Tim, as the usual way , I have some jotted down questions and this time I had more than 30 seconds to think them up. Occupation ? I am a telecoms Project Manager Why did you buy a Westfield ? Its a long story , but I actually started looking at Tiger cars . They seemed a sensible car to buy , but looking into it they were pretty agricultural with their car designs and finish, so I dismissed them. I then saw Caterhams and Westfields and knowing that both cars had been crash tested ( including local members doing it without factory knowledge !) gave me a sense of design and construction safety being put into the cars. Caterhams were out of the financial league, so a Westfield soon appeared. What came first , the car or the club membership ? The car came first and the club soon after How long have you been in the club ? I have been in the club now for 11 years How long have you been an area organiser? I have been here with Steve Thorne for 10 years after we took the reins from Adam Reeves ( remember him ?) Why change a perfectly good Zetec engine ? Well, I have had the car for 11 years now and after blowing one engine and always enjoying the tinkering, I thought about a big change. This is the Mk3 version of this car , from being a factory built car (Mk1) , to buying from it first owner as a standard car. Blowing it up and replacing the engine and suspension and loosing weight (mk2) it was time to make it a bit more sprightly . With doing various driver training days I found a level that was only going to get better/ more enjoyable to look into a major engine transplant. Carbon Fibre ? Oh yes, see over there, that shelf, is full of carbon parts ready to go onto the car when the time is right . I also have diffusers and actually skin my own parts in carbon , which looks very smart. Was the engine change in budget? After hysterical laughter and picking himself off the floor, Tim said. No, its not !! But actually its not too far away from where I financially expected it to be. What helped me out , getting round the financial controller ( wont say too much, incase Ruth does read this !! ) but selling all the parts first from the strip down , sort of built up the bank balance before I started buying things. It seemed to work pretty well but I am now in negative , as that monies gone and now wait for paydays ( like us all !!) Time frame for Completion ? I was planning a year to get the car finished and with all the chassis work taking longer to modify than expected and actually deciding to do all the electrics and electronics myself than farming that bit out , I am 18 months in so far and want to really finish before Stoneleigh , or the Thames Valley Orienteering event or ............well, the summer ............maybe. I do miss driving the car, but I really enjoy just spending time in the garage just tinkering and making progress with something. Whether its mechanical or electrical. the electrics in the beginning daunted me , but I know every wire colour and location now , so adding relays to the original loom , so I can fit push buttons on the dash and variable back lighting is quite in depth but well within my scope now I am the point of no return ! What do you do with your car ? I have a built ( or well I always had but the Mk3 will be moreso) a track biased car that I can use on the road. With all this lighter weight, 3 piece wheels and great looking Siltech suspension fitted to the car, the engine should the next part of the puzzle. Any thing planned when the car is done ? I wish to head back to the tracks I have driven in its various stages of changes and see how much this engine has made to the package I have created and probably relearn everything I have absorbed from previous driving trainer days . So, after a little bit of a grilling, and removing myself from the obstacle course , I said cheerio to Tim. He has not built his car from scratch but has rebuilt his car on now the third time, so can say he knows every nut and bolt on it. It will be a sensational car when it gets put back together. I just hope its soon as the better weather ( albeit not today sadly for me) isnt too far away . Being a family chap, time to tinker is only when the little ones are tucked up at night , which is just a fact of life for a lot of us. I am looking forward to a pax ride in the car to see what all these hair dryers on the engine blocks do to a Westfield as opposed to being normally aspirated.
  3. 16 points
    150 Days Firstly, I feel I need to apologies to all of you that have kept up with build blogs whilst actually building your cars! I had every intention of doing so, I just never found the time with building the car around work! Fortunately for me there were a number of builds taking place and I take my hat off to you all that kept up with your build blogs! Almost all the questions I asked myself or issues I came up against were covered somewhere in one blog or another! So thank you! My Westfield journey began back in December 2017, when a visit to the Westfield factory was all I needed to place an order for an FW Special Edition kit. I went down the modular route, so ordered Modules 1 and 2. With a few “upgrades”, including the LSD & heater to begin with. Upon returning from the Australian GP I picked up the first two modules at the end of March 2018. The story that’s been told a few times. Nice big Luton van up the M40 to Dudley and then brought a chassis and a load of boxes back! Trying to build the car between F1 races proved frustrating, but looking back it was also a welcome forced break. Any issues I came up against I was able to research from the hotel room at the next race. By the time I arrived home I had an idea of what I was going to do. That said the early days went really well, the build came together fairly quickly. So much so that come the May bank holiday weekend I found myself at Stoneleigh ordering Module 3! Taking full advantage of the discount on offer at the show I ordered module 3. The discount seemed to be an excuse to again order some extras – diamond stitched seats, LED light upgrade (excluding headlights), wider rear wheels to name a few. By the end of May, I had pretty much run out of bits to bolt to the car, which in a way was a good thing as I spent most of June and July on the road with work. So there sat the car in the garage under cover. Fortunately, it was soon August, a delay with the bodywork meant Westfield delivered Module 3 for me. With it being the F1 summer shutdown for two weeks it was full steam ahead with the build! Bodywork was built up and all fitted and the same week it arrived. Again I have to thank the excellent build blogs as I thanks to reading ahead, making a few notes and reading everyone’s tips I felt I was ahead of the game. August came and went and the car was looking like a car. Which was fortunate because between mid-September and December I was only actually in the UK for 12 days. These 12 days were well spent ‘tinkering’ and ‘fettling’ days. It was December before I really got back on with things. It was then I thought I needed to get my act together and sort out IVA paperwork! Once submitted I was offered an appointment at Bristol on Friday 11th January. For the first time of my build I felt like I had an actual target. The stress levels went up a notch, little things like not having a momentary fog light switch and a rocker switch for the fan that didn’t light up. All little things that can be found out working through the fault and possible causes. Westfield especially Ian were really good with getting parts to me quickly to aid the fault diagnosis/replacements parts. Friday 11th January, IVA Day. I was really nervous for the day. I’d hired a recovery truck and a friend came along to give me a hand. Took a bag full of tools, and a box of spares/foam/conduit you know the normal stuff! It was a 5am alarm for a 5.30am leave from just south of Oxford. The weather was dry and we arrived at Bristol at approximately 7.30am. Enough time to warm the car up, get it off the trailer and have a last look over. I went over to reception and was directed to the IVA lane and told to drive the car over and the inspector would be along shortly. The inspector came over and introduced himself and had a cup of tea with us, we spoke about the build. Everything went really well, with a minimal amount of work required at the test. I removed the boot box, pedal box cover, added a single cable tie to the wiring behind the dash and tweaked the headlights. The inspector played his cards really close to his chest, but I had a feeling it was going well. We seemed to be flying through the tests. Before too long we were outside doing the noise test, then off the inspector went, did a lap of the warehouse in it. He brought it back and said right feel free to drive it back around and load it up onto your trailer, which I did. He said he needed to go through the brake calculations and he’d be out soon to let me know the result. Me and my mate loaded the car and just stood anxiously waiting for him! I daren’t go in and bother him. So we waited for about 15mins (Perhaps he was having a cup of tea as well)! Needless to say he appeared with a pass certificate and congratulated me on a well-built car. Over the moon was an understatement! I couldn’t believe it! A year of doing a bit here and bit there had resulted in an IVA pass! I’m still on cloud 9! Therefore, with the added benefit of having a mate who was also driving the recovery truck for me… you know where this is going! We pulled of the M4 at Swindon and found a layby! Thought I might as well take advantage we had the truck! The car was insured on the chassis number, so off it came and I drove the last 15miles home, in convoy with my recovery vehicle! It wasn’t needed the car drove like a dream! This thing really is going to be all about smiles per mile! The only squeaky bum time at the IVA test was with headlights. I’d aligned them on the garage door and the LH light really wasn’t far away. Literally a little tweak forward and we got the right pattern. We really struggled with the RH one and I genuinely feel it was the discretion of the inspector which meant he didn’t fail it. Just strongly suggested I get in touch with Westfield to see if there was a fault with the unit itself. We did everything possible to try and achieve the correct pattern, it just wasn’t happening though. At the time of writing this I’m waiting for Westfield to get back to me. So hopefully I’ll have an answer soon. I spent the weekend making a start on the registration paperwork, letting Westfield know so they can get my Certificate of Newness in the post! All being well I’ll be able to get a few miles in before work gets busy! Once again I apologies for not keeping a built blog. I just couldn’t face starting one then having to abandon it/not keeping it up to date. Equally you all deserve to know that another Westfield is on the road! Plus, I honestly couldn’t have done it without the brilliant build diary’s/blogs a number of you have kept! So guys like BugMan, MrMgoo, Chris Brading, Insuranceman. You don’t know me but I feel like I know you! Thanks for all your brilliant blogs. They were so helpful whilst I was building my kit. I had a count up on the calendar of how many days I was in the UK to be able to work on the car last year and it’s around the 150 mark. Hence the title 150 days! As a post IVA treat/celebration I’ve brought myself the Momo steering wheel kit and quick release steering boss! These cars are never finished! I will post a few photos later!
  4. 14 points
    Well, found myself with a few spare hours unexpectedly this afternoon, so I bled the brakes, and stuck some wheels on... Given that our politicians seemingly can't organise anything, I decided to do my own version of Brexit, Lexit: Then had a little drive So, anti climax of the year right there. With my left foot wedged firmly against the brake pedal, which is all the way to the left, my brain thought it was the clutch After that quick recalibration though, the clutch is brilliant. First pull away (the one in the video) perfectly smooth, subsequent ones the same. Downshifts feel natural, grab the lever while pushing the stick. Auto blip works but a little 'flat' right now at low speed / revs, I think its a combination of the map (feels rich) and the cams (engine is a bit grumpy low down). Only went to 5 clicks out of 9 though. Steering and chassis feels amazing. So much communication. When it had warmed up I sent it wheelspinning all the way down the road, opposite lock both ways, and it just felt so natural. Turning circle is very very good! Ergonomics brilliant, everything about the car just feels 'right'. The noise. The acceleration. Different league! Yours sincerely, Chuffed of chuffedsville
  5. 13 points
    Today was the day Stick some headphones on to hear the deeper grumble of the exhaust
  6. 13 points
    My DAD! & Dad's Dad was a car enthusiast too. A few years ago Dad's first car was a sporty Jowett convertible. He drives every day and for last 6+ years he's been driving an MX5 mk3 - with 2 speeding tickets and no bumps! Not unusual you think! But he is now in his mid 90's and has just completed a power upgrade..... So proud of him. & so wish to be as sprightly and able to burn up the highways when I reach his age. (and be able to afford to)
  7. 13 points
    Since having my aeroscreen fitted I hadn’t given a full screen any thought untill I was killing time in the garage and found my old pillars and plastic mirrors..They were looking tired and the plastic had faded a bit and in general looked scruffy ,so I thought about giving them a makeover . I picked them up today and they looked like this got them done at a place called Hydrov8 in Peterborough by a great bloke called Chris . Top job . I may even put them on from time to time.
  8. 13 points
    I bought an 8-channel Freewheel setup from @Kit Car Electronics earlier this year - for the last few weekends I've been tinkering with ideas for the steering wheel. My quest for neatness meant that I wanted everything to be neat, so I was looking at doing all sorts of things with the wiring behind the button panel. Because I have a small-ish steering wheel, I also wanted to hide the transmitter box as well as possible. Then I hit on an idea (I'm sure its not unique, but I couldn't find anything when I searched) Normal facing panel cut out and buttons trial-installed Test fit onto the steering wheel, with screw mountings for a back-plate and a mounting pad for the transmitter. Note the revised fixing for the lower bolt so that the transmitter could be placed nearer the centre of the wheel Back-plate roughed out with "plinth" made from aluminium strip - the cut-out is to go round the steering wheel extension boss Plinth Araldited to the back-plate - (just as well my neatness drive doesn't extend to the bits I can't see...) switches installed into the front panel and wiring soldered on I also covered the aluminium with some fake carbon vinyl, then mounted the back-plate The customisation involved changing the orientation and wiring exit point of the small project box that Mike supplies with the kit - I needed the wiring to exit the box at the other end and much lower down so that it stayed behind the back-plate. I also didn't want the transmitter LED hidden behind the steering wheel boss. Job done It's not quite perfect - if I did another one, I'd certainly be able to make it a lot neater, as a lot of this was trial and error. Still, I'm fairly happy with this first effort.
  9. 13 points
    I purchased my 1990 Westfield last February as a (barely) running project with MOT. After a year long almost nut and bolt restoration (www.10-42.com/westfield) , which included a new stage 3 Crossflow engine, Type 9 gearbox, 3.54:1 CWP, drive shafts, coolant system, ignition system, alternator, starter, carburettor, water pump, battery, complete braking system, wheels, tyres, lights, instruments, carpets, repaint etc, it has passed it's MOT with no advisories! The reason for the post is that Manor Garage in Brundall, Norfolk were truly excellent and very Westfield friendly; being able to MOT the car on a Saturday was a real bonus. I also meant to say they also understood the "Q" plate testing parameters very well.
  10. 12 points
    Very heavy tail wind down into Turn 1 Furthest the new speed series t shirt has traveled I expect
  11. 12 points
    Buttercup earlier today.
  12. 12 points
  13. 11 points
    Ol' Meatypants on it with the puns lately, keep em coming Anyway, Tuesday. Quite a mission in the end. Arrived on time, but only just thanks to a stranded lorry only a few hundred metres from EFI Parts - air brakes stuck on. When I arrived there was a rough-sounding Renault 5 Turbo on the dyno, which had been having issues all day. Eventually I got my car on the rollers an hour and a half late, after having dropped the rear door / ramp of my trailer directly onto my right big toe. The blood in the photo above is only a very small portion of what eventually ended up all over the car park So, a good start... I already knew the car started and ran well, so it was time to show Chris around the Woolich software and the auto tune functions. Except he didn't trust the auto tune, so we ended up doing the map iteratively, with a reflash of the ECU between each change. This works great for a standalone ECU, but when each flash of the Honda ECU takes about 8 minutes... well... you get the idea, hence only finishing at 9:30pm. The Woolich system also, annoyingly, wants to keep the fuel pump running while writing, so I had to disconnect each time. And with the power on and water temp about 70 degrees, the water pump was running also, so I was disconnecting that too I forgot to reconnect it at one point, so during a full throttle run saw about 110 degree water temp, up from 70 within a couple of seconds, which left coolant all over the floor. However - it proves the water pump and cooling system works (car stayed perfectly at temp the rest of the time), also showed the lemon juice bottle works exactly as intended. After the spillage issue, the system sucked the 'tank' dry once it cooled down and so re-filled the system. No significant softening of the bottle either. Happy days. At this point the car started wildly rev blipping while going into 1st, and gear change was becoming troublesome. Hmm. Chris - used to meaty sequential boxes in his 900bhp drag car - had been giving the shift lever so much beans it had bent one of my shift linkages! Luckily it was steel so could bend it back, but the damage was done. Luckily I managed to come up with a way to hold it in position while he went up through the gears, but with this leaving my hand only an inch or two from the prop, I was glad to be able to retreat from the car before it started getting too lairy. I'd been checking header temps with an IR gun and they looked good - 20 degrees or so hotter at the middle two, which is to be expected as they have a bit less chance to cool than pots 1 and 4, so leaving the standard Honda fuel balancing seems to work. So, power. I'd written the ignition map myself a few months back, using the Honda OE as the base, but then following conversations with Andy Bates and looking at some Woolich maps, decided to change it and add more advance at the top end, getting to around 36 degrees at full chat (Andy reckons he uses 40!). We went through the low rpm regions of the map, around 2600 to 5000, using the auto tune and it pulled out some sensible data. Applying changes made the right sort of corrections. It was clear there was a problem though - my heart sank when Chris suggested the clutch may be slipping... Luckily we identified it as wheel slip, phew! A note - don't take track tyres or slicks to a dyno if you have road tyres, sounds daft but the road tyres grip the rollers much better Once we'd adjusted the straps to pull down more vertically, taken some air out of the tyres, and added @maurici to the rear of the chassis, it seemed happier and stopped slipping (huge thanks to you mate for coming along to hold my hand, I was pretty nervous about the whole thing!). Now it was time to do some sweep tests at higher throttle openings. Chris was a little skeptical of the ignition timing but he had connected up a knock sensor just in case. The first pull saw the car jump out of the rollers momentarily, which was bl**** scary, and 225bhp on the screen! He explained this was because of the wheel slip and the jump, but still I was feeling hopeful... Once the fuelling was closer (I had added a bit up top to ensure it was safe - was running in the 11:1 AFR region first pull) and we'd added more downward pressure to the back of the car, it was time for a proper pull or two. 211bhp / 92ftlbs was a consistent figure, with it still making power right up to 13300rpm There was still a touch of wheel slip, so even with the limiter set at 13500 the graph finishes at 13200. We had a few more runs retarding the timing each time to see if it would affect power - it didn't until we'd taken 6 degrees out, meaning we could leave it at 5 degrees less than at the start of the session, putting less strain on the engine and massively reducing the possibility of detonation. More runs at 80, 60, 40% throttle were done and the fuel and ignition tables smoothed between these sites. Final numbers - 210bhp and 92ftlbs (175bhp at the wheels). bl**** chuffed with that to be honest, given a few things. The home-bodged airbox - I was a little worried this might have cocked things up, but it seems not. The home made exhaust, again a huge potential to make a mess of this, but it seems to work great! The last 'Blade Chris did made 185bhp, and his dyno regularly under-reads compared with other places. He also suggested there may have been a few losses due to having to strap the car down so much. I think the biggest improvement will be in the partial throttle stuff though, the shapes of the ignition and fuel tables is vastly improved compared with the OE map. Injector balance (how much of the work the top and bottom injectors are doing) - before: Injector balance - after. Note the smoother transitions which will give less jerking as they come in and out, and top injectors doing a lot more work at full chat now. I believe this accounts for a good chunk of the extra power over OE, especially in the partial throttle regions. It made 120bhp at 40% throttle!! Fuel tables - the OE map is pretty smooth in this respect, has a weird spike at very low revs though, and a 'shelf' around 5000rpm which I am guessing is where the exhaust flap opens. After. Note how much more fuel keeps going in towards full revs, especially in the 100% TPS column. Moooorreee pooowweerrr And ignition - this is where the real driveability changes have been made. Honda do have to cope with loads of emissions, noise, fuel consumption etc regs though, which explains a lot of the choppiness and weird areas, such as that hugely advanced 'plateau' at around 20% TPS and 6000rpm. After - much smoother now! I think it's really important to see this sort of stuff, because so many mappers only do the full throttle column! This often leaves you with a complete dog at partial throttle, where you spend a heck of a lot of time, even on a track car. The dyno plot is produced from only a fraction of the total map (the blue section highlighted here): Haven't got the final dyno plots on me now, but will add them later. And to finish... 13500rpm of glorious noise! Hopefully will get onto sorting the shift linkage today, plus going over the car to check for leaks, other loose things etc, then maybe make a start on bodywork ready for Blyton Park on 27th April
  14. 11 points
    Final picture for the day before I zipped the car back in its Carcoon .
  15. 11 points
    Spent a bit of time today getting a welding area set up, which made things a lot easier! Being able to sit down and having a metal-topped bench (removing the requirement to clamp directly onto the work piece) was a revelation. Did some test welds on 32 x 1.6mm mild steel tube, not exactly the same as the 42 x 1.5mm stainless I'll be using for the manifold but at least with it being a smaller diameter it was trickier to follow the profile. I was careful to prep the joints properly, especially the fit up, using a belt sander clamped in the vice to sand the faces flat. Using the pulse function and no filler gave some pretty decent results. I'll do the same tests again when I have some stainless in the right dimensions, but happy this will do the job. The stops and starts aren't great at the moment, need more light on the table and to rotate the torch more to keep it closer to vertical at the end of each weld. When chopped up it's pretty obvious where the stops and starts are! Penetration is more than adequate for a manifold though I think, mainly needs to be gas tight as there won't be that much mechanical load. Squashed the test pieces flat ready for bending. Bent at 90 degrees in the vice with a hammer, from left to right: weld on inside of bend, weld on outside, weld perpendicular. First one pulled apart a bit as shown but the weld was intact. The other two held up perfectly. Will do the same tests on some stainless tube when I have it! The chassis only had one harness mount each side, perhaps from having an inertia reel belt, so new ones needed fitting. I don't like them being plonked on the back of the chassis tube so drilled and sunk them in. Noticed my MIG welding has magically improved since learning to TIG, I've become much more aware and considerate of the weld pool and how it moves. Also tweaked the front ARB mountings, they were previously attached to the shock mount. I wanted longer drop links (still to make) to allow better articulation, also put the bottom rod end in the middle of the adjustment range. The mounts are also a bit less cantilever-y now so that will reduce compliance. I'd prefer the rod ends to be in double shear but I'm sure this will do the job just fine. Still got the other side to do yet, likely to be end of next week now as a busy few days coming up.
  16. 10 points
  17. 10 points
    Only a few small bits done in the last few days, was at Cadwell with Barny @BCF Friday and Saturday gathering some trophies in his ****ter instead! Had a few little jobs to tick off so set about those... Easiest one was chucking a jerry can of V Power in the tank. The fuel gauge reads 0% until there's about 3-4L in there due to the position of the sender, after that it's pretty much bang on 3% per litre (20L can was 60%). Handy to know! I'm going to have two maps, one for V Power and another with the timing backed off for road use and 95 RON fuel. The difference in bhp between these two could be as much as 10bhp I reckon, so worth doing. Catch tank - as standard the vapours from the crank case go straight into the airbox, not keen on this. Blocked off the airbox breather and made up a catch tank for the crank case. Ended up using the original fuel filler I bought, then lost, and by the time I'd found it had bought a nicer one But it worked out great here. Inlet pipe cut at an angle to help direct any fluids / vapour downwards, so it gets chance to condense before air comes out the mini filter at the top (still awaiting that - CBS been very slow this time!!). Alloy pipework for heat and weight reasons Also swapped front springs, set ride heights, tightened trailing arms and set front toe. Popped the speedo sensor in. Don't really need it, but the gear display on the dash works from it so decided that would be handy for the dyno. That boss on the crank case is in a perfect position, very handy! Then gave the car a run up and down on the industrial estate, only a short distance but allowed things to get up to temperature and do some logging, so I could make a start on mapping and learn how the Woolich auto tune works. Looking a bit better without the gaffer taped airbox and with the funky snout I can almost envisage it with a full body on........... Surprised myself again how fast the car is... These two passes are at a maximum of 38% and 41% throttle opening respectively, 'only' getting up to about 10500rpm after the rear tyres decided they'd had enough of sticking to the road Crackers. Despite the fairly high rpms and low speed, water temp sat a rock solid 78-79 degrees, happy days. I also tried downshifting without the clutch, using the auto blipper... IT WORKS! Very pleased and a bit surprised to be honest. Not sure how much I'll use that function given that grabbing the clutch lever isn't exactly a hardship, especially considering the consequences of botched downshifts, but it's nice to know it works as intended. By this point the car was obviously warm, so popped the fan on and noticed it was drawing quite a draught through the ducting - pretty cool! Mapping stuff... The Woolich system is pretty bloomin good. The auto tune software is both intuitive and very responsive. Basically you set a target AFR table as I explained earlier in the thread, drive the car, it logs AFR and RPM vs TPS (and IAP), then suggests what changes you should make to meet your target AFR. A few clicks, a reflash of the ECU (takes about 6 minutes) and it's done! On the rollers you simply hold engine rpm using the brake on the dyno, sweep the throttle from min to max TPS, up the revs by 500, repeat throttle sweep, etc. until all the rev range is done. They reckon you can do a full custom map in 20 minutes (and I believe them!). So, first pic - logged AFR. Blue cells are richer than my target, red cells are leaner than my target. This one shows the number of data points taken for each cell. As you can probably figure out, the engine idles around 1200rpm. Again, blue is too rich, red is too lean. This is the suggested changes in percent. Again blue is rich, therefore negative numbers removing fuel, red the opposite - too lean, so fuel is added. You can see alraedy that even at low revs and moderate throttle openings it is running lean... So that means more fuel needed than standard = moorreee powweeerrr The graphical representations of these are cool too. Quite big changes needed - some regions it's taken out 17% fuel, and others it's put in as much as 30%! That one looks like a slight anomaly though, so I have set the software to make maximum changes of 20% (and minimum number of data points as 2). As far as I'm concerned it's ready to go on the dyno now, if I can get a few other bits done (like adding bodywork!) I will, but not going to stress about it. Really can't wait to see what sort of figures it makes I'm gonna go for 205bhp and 135Nm at the crank. Place your bets now! Closest wins... something yet to be decided.
  18. 10 points
    At last after a few frustrating weeks I’m back on the road As someone with limited knowledge but willing to have a go ,without this resource and the members I’d be lost ( or paying a garage ). One of the reasons I’d always wanted a westfield was so that I could learn the mechanical side of things as well as enjoy the driving . Thanks to you lot I can now do my own servicing, I’ve upgraded my radiator sorted My starter motor and electrical problems and my freewheel is up and running .Id like to say a big thanks to @Thrustyjust who always comes to my help ,his advice has been welcomed on many occasions on varying topics. Mike @Kit Car Electronics For sending me a freewheel package ready soldered with all the information to enable me and a mate to fit it Also for being good enough to give me his phone number on his Saturday afternoon off to help 2 people who didn’t really know that much get it working .It really is not that complicated and a great bit of kit (My favourite upgrade yet ) @Jon Wilkinson who was a Godsend with my electrics ,(turns out he’s an Auto electrician ) Without the above and indeed all of you the forum I’d be lost ,With you I’m gaining experience growing in confidence and ultimately one day may be able to build a car of my own .See you all at Stoneleigh . For anyone that’s not seen a freewheel yet here’s mine get one .. Steve
  19. 10 points
    Now imagine a Subaru Impreza and this is what's he done.....and he's even fitted the scoop the wrong way round. I don't think this is even going to help with cooling....livid
  20. 10 points
    Took ‘Sparky’ to the local car wrap shop today and had some stripes fitted.
  21. 10 points
    For those that don't know, I am now the club's Sponsorship Liaison officer for the Speed Series since taking over the role mid last year. This years Speed Series sponsors are:- Northampton Motorsport (title sponsor) SBD motorsport A Plan Insurance (Thatcham) Aerodynamix Siltech Racing Westfield Sport Cars GGR Communications plus new additions this year :- Force Racing Wheels Triple M Motorsport AB Performance 3J Driveline fPod Intelligent Race Fuel Bowsers Contact details can be found on the sponsors page on the main website here . Have a look at their websites and browse their products and services that they offer. Please keep an eye on the page for additional sponsors in due course. Best wishes John
  22. 10 points
    Hope this counts. This is a picture of my engine following the work I had done on Buttercup by @Luke Algar frpm PlaysKool.
  23. 9 points
    Evening fellas Hope you all keeping well :0) Made a little more progress & got the 2nd most dreaded task out the way......the Aerocatches lol Must say, alot more time consuming than I had originally intended, but happy with how thay turned out. Must say a big thanks to Rich as well as he was a huge help & even made me up a jig. First up marked where I wanted them to go and took Rich's advice & went a tad lower & a tad further forward so the catch would not conflict with the scuttle. Then used the jig which I held in position with double sided carpet tape, then onto my new toy... the router lol Then used the underside of a dremel disk to remove material from inside the bonnet so they sit flush. Then glued into position using VudoGlue from easy composites. Forgot to take a pic, but glue works great & looks rather neat. Then moved onto the brackets which I used a laser level to work out where the stricker engages. Then some of the boys playdo come in handy to work out where the Aerocatches conflict lol Fitted the easy side first. Then onto the harder side which was more awkward due to the pedal box cover. Wanted to keep the pedal area serviceable, so rather than bonding, rivnutted the pedal hox cover after I had trimed it & then delicately trimed it round the bracket.
  24. 9 points
    Finished my last winter upgrades, finally fitted my mk 2 version carbon cycle wing brackets First photo before trimming And at long last changed my dash light bulbs to LED LED bulbs fitted Steve
  25. 9 points
    Steipping the wishbones off last weekend, for blasting and powder coating was something of a horror story in its own right, , but removing the rear first gave me a bit more access to get in with the nylon stripping wheels mounted to the angle grinder. I’d originally thought it would just be the usual case of get any loose powder coat and rust off. It in this case, as soon as I exposed bare metal, even under seemingly good, solid powder coat I’d still pick up rust traces. So ended up having to really aggressively strip the rear back. I soon ran through the couple of stripping discs I had. While I had the angle grinder out, a small surgical operation was performed, to remove the old spare wheel carrier mounts. A package of five 3M Scortchbrite discs arrived this week, ready for the weekend’s work. It took another three yesterday, along with drill mounted wire brushes and the trusty Black and Decker powerfile to clear 90% off the powder coat off. The remainder in the inaccessible to power tool areas was taken off with paint stripper and wire wool, by hand. Incidentally, since the changes in the law over here, none of the really good on powder coat chemical strippers, which were based on dichloromethane (sp?) are available any more. Modern versions of old favourite general strippers, like Nitromors don’t even mark the surface. The best easily findable one I’ve used so far is this stuff, which softens it pretty well with a couple of applications, and seems to lift most off eventually. I finally ended up at this stage. The photo above shows the chassis with all the loose stuff and worst affected areas stripped right back. It wasn’t necessary to strip all the powder coat off everywhere, some sections did seem clear of hidden rust. As I’m using POR15 - designed to seal and encapsulate rust, it’s not actually necessary to grind it all off either, just remove all the loose stuff. In the picture, the chassis has been washed/degreased with Marine Clean, mixed down 5:1 with hot water, then scrubbed in and rinsed off. Followed by a liberal brushing over of Metal Prep solution, which once left to activate, was rinsed off this morning. Before allowing the chassis to dry. Followed finally, by several hours of hand painting POR15 on. That all now needs to cure thoroughly, before it can be top coated next weekend, and I can start rebuilding the back end. in between waiting for stages to dry, I cleaned up the read damper assemblies and removed the old springs, here you can see the new 1” longer 225lb springs (Black) alongside the original, (mostly) white ones! the new 9” springs were just too long to go on without a compressor, doh, that’s why 8” are used normally! As my old standard spring compressor wasn’t even close to working I took the angle grinder to it and re-shaped the hooks to suit the much smaller 1.9” OD springs and the (relatively) much bigger damper body. Took quite a bit of fettling, but it’s done now, and they’ll work next time without any tweaks! Mad all fitted. As a starting point, I’ve set the heights to roughly what they were, less an inch, then I can wind them down a bit from there, once on the car, to allow for the greater rate. So, about those wishbones... The fronts had a few medium sized chunks of powder coat come away while removing them, obviously, revealing rust underneath. But nothing like the horror story of the rears. The rears have sat quietly dropping powder coat in little heaps in the garage all week. Everytime I walked past them, there seemed less powder coat and must dust and flakes on the floor. So much so, that I decided, rather than to waste time removing the metalastic bushes, I was going to ship them down to Westfield, and ask Mark to confirm if he even thought they were salvageable, given the car’s power level, and if so, get them to remove the bushes and send them back. (I’d pay, for the bush removal and carriage, obviously). At the same time, I was also working on a plan B. And I’m so relieved Plan B. came off. Looking at the rears again on Saturday after even more powder coat had come off, I was really deeply uneasy about reuse without proper testing. Thankfully, by that point, I’d already arranged to buy a full set of never fitted front and rear ‘bones from Terry. I’m going to condemn the old rears myself, and scrap them, as a precaution. Though the fronts, would be perfectly reusable after blasting and re-powdercoating, (once they’ve had the bushes removed, of course!) This morning therefore, I took a run up to sunny Lamcashire, and collected Terry’s old wishbones. I am going to get them stripped and re-done, even though they’ve never been fitted; my local powder coaters will thoroughly media blast them, before zinc primeing them, and then powder coating them properly. They’re always going to be an exposed item, that see’s wear in use. But hopefully I can get considerably more life out of the new set. Oh, and i’ll Protect the leading edges in particular, that tend to take all the stone chips, with leading edge tape.
  26. 9 points
    Shows my lack of experience with all things electrical A 12 hour stint yesterday and it looks like nothing much has changed, but I guess that's what it takes to make (to my eyes) wiring (at least fairly) neat and tidy. Also had a bit of a mare with the kill switch, I'd modified it slightly to clear the prop, but that had shot bits of plastic into the connections admit dropped working. Stumped me for a bit! The two switches at the top of the panel facing the driver are for headlights, and fan on / both off / fan and water pump on. The first two are fairly self explanatory, the third function allows the car to be cooled while turned off (eg. sitting in the paddock after a run). PS: To the eagle-eyed, sadly no heatwave in the North yesterday, I'd just run the engine for a few seconds to test I'd got the re-wiring correct! Engine bay looking pretty neat I've made a mini loom for all the senders, fan and water pump, which hides along / underneath the chassis rails and all comes out in the top corner of the drivers footwell panel. And the power arena. Battery live cables all no more than 6" long before they meet a fuse or breaker. Earth lead from the battery, which will be yellow, sticks up so easy to identify and chop if necessary. Reg/rec raised up to help cooling and mounted on rubber bobbins to damp vibrations. Starter, charging and fuel pump fuses easily accessible. So that's phase 1 of the wiring complete. Though I'll move the ECU and need to find a home for the HISS. Then its time to bleed up the brakes, throw some wheels on and drive it out the workshop
  27. 9 points
    So, as a few of you have already guess, I had the pleasure to interrogate none other that Adge C . Was great to have an afternoon with him and the South Western guys and girls at Castle Coombe supporting our sprint guys in their groups and other club members in the Mini. Obviously after he was asking who the next candidate could be last week after Tim's write up, amazingly Adge received the PM to say he was next . ' Who would have guessed that !' was his reply. Now, I don't want to ask the same old questions 'all' the time, so , apart from car related ones, I did throw a couple of side tracking ones . So if you do wish to meet me for question time , then be aware that not all the questions are the same. Remember Stoneleigh is not far away , so you could be called upon . You can tell me to sod off, that's not a problem So, without any more waffling from me, I took to Google Somerset Translation , to assist me in working out what was being said to me. So, Adge , you know the score ! ................... Er............. Ok, So, Adge, what is your name ? It is actually Alan Francis Cutler . The nickname Adge has been a long standing name from many years ago Any other names ? Yes, from my interview from Complete Kit Car, I had a name change to Martin. Chap was a bit of a wally ( Lets hope all interviewers aren't considered this ? ) Age ? I am 67 years young Occupation ? I am happily retired . I used to be a nuclear powerstation engineer . Any links to the Worzels ? Only by nick name as that was the lead singers name . ( Glad it wasnt the original lead singer, as he would have been re-incarnated as died in a crash many years ago) Why build a Westfield? Always been into cars from an early age. Used to have a Morris 8 and drove it round the orchard. Spent a lot of my time tinkering with cars and the usual family and married life took precedence. Used to enjoy road rallying and bought a motor home and toured Europe in 2014. That year also went to Goodwood and went to the Westfield stand and looked at the cars. Practicality at that point wasnt there , so bought an MX5 . Then a family bereavement meant we didn't need the MX 5 , so that was sold and went to the factory after the financial controller gave the nod and bought the ST250 kit. Was the build done in the time frame you had hoped ? It was far quicker that I had planned. I set my sights on 18 months to 2 years, but the reality was it was done in 9 months. What was the most awkward part of the build ? Definitely the scuttle and wipers. Took so much time to get them to line up and fit properly. Must admit that without the help of many Westfield builders on the forum , especially Steve for the ST bits , I would have been much further behind with solving issues . So, the forum is fantastic for helping builders with questions needing answers quickly. Anything you built, you wish you did different ? Trying to sort this rattle out I have. I believe I may have made the steering column mouse hole or pedal box too tight to the scuttle as the diagnosis I need to resolve. Was the IVA test as daunting as people make it sound ? No, not at all. It was a really nerve wracking experience , not just the day but leading up to it. But the test was good. I had the support of the local guys, who spent a Saturday evening going through the car , to check it before I went for the test, which was fantastic. Anything you want to change on the car ? I have just changed the tyres and hope they work better for me and the car , so thats about all at the moment. How long have you been in the club ? 2016 I joined just when I bought the kit What came first the car or the club ? I joined the club before the car was made and can definitely say its well worth being a member here. Carbon Fibre ? Yes, I have cycle wings , rear diffuser, wing mirror covers and Mick Made chassis rail protectors, which I covered in clear film as look so good , I dont want to mark them ! What do you use the car for mainly ? We love just going out as a retired couple and enjoying nice drives when we want to. We have runs out with the Dorset group too . Also went to Classic Le Mans and France for a week last year. Anything planned this year ? Stoneleigh , of course ! , Isle of Man for a holiday, Devon run , trip to Tring and Bletchley Park and Classic Kitcar show in November , so far. Can you explain what a Grockle is ? Its a ( probably be bleeped) holiday maker passing through Somerset. Have you used all the wood in the garage as yet or is it still a big pile ? Slowly its going down, but then I go shopping and think, that's a nice piece of wood and buy it, so I keep finding more ! Is retirement all its cracked up to be ? Oh yes ! and some. I love having this time to myself and playing cars and playing wood . Its great. Name a celebrity who you would allow a pax seat for a ride in the Westie ? Oh, well , I can't really have a conversation with the person , so need someone pleasing to the eye, so I would say Susan George from the 70's Now, i had to google her and in way of Adge's car being black and white, so is the picture of the lady in question. Still alive and a bit more wrinkly, but he did mention 'In the 70's' So, after spending a very pleasant afternoon in the company of Adge and the south west crew, the latest wife and myself had to head off home. Was fab to chat to you Adge and catch up at Stoneleigh in May.
  28. 9 points
  29. 9 points
    PASSED YIPPEE! With a few dramas, Full beam indicator wasn't working some T**t had took the dash out and pulled the earth off, soon fixed. Noise was just in at 4500 he seemed happy. Good breakfast at 7:00! Thanks for all the help and advice . More questions about registration coming sorry. Rich
  30. 9 points
    The car passed IVA this afternoon so I'm pleased that's over and done with, Definitely more fun and less hassle than I expected It rained pretty much from when I left home until I got back home so the car Is filthy and In need of some TLC. Insurance has been sorted with APlan Nearly there and onto the registration paperwork minefield I go!! Thanks everyone for the comments above.
  31. 9 points
    Progress is plodding along. The inlet mock up is complete and will hopefully be sent away for finishing this week. Some spangly new shocks arrived courtesy of the ever helpful @DamperMan So threw them on. Body has now been shuffled around to line of best fit and riveted in place. Which will now open up a load of work while I'm waiting on parts. Particularly the scuttle build (yay). I did end up with the tub maybe 10mm further forward than the book figure of 400mm but I wanted the wheels as central in the rear arches as possible. The bonnet needed a bit of a tweak too. So it's been strapped in place and gently heated up to hopefully get it a bit better fit. Excuse the garage I've left it a tip!
  32. 9 points
    Manifold now all welded up. I bought a new mask when getting a gas refill, oh my what a difference! Well worth spending a little more for a good one, visibility is tons better and the glass is light enough to see your work when not welding, meaning reduced flipping up and down. The fit is still perfect, can't detect any distortion at all. I did run around 1cm I of weld at 12, 4, 8 O'clock before tackling the full way round though, so maybe this helped. Afterwards I taped up the end of each of the primaries and filled them with water, for two reasons: 1) to check for leaks (revealed a tiny pinprick on #4), and 2) so I could weigh the water that came back out in order to check the volume of each primary. The general rule is to build to a length but I'm fairly certain exhaust gases don't carry tape measures, so they'll be more concerned with the volume. Results were... 1: 544cc, 2: 545cc, 3: 540cc, 4: 532cc. I knew 4 was a bit short, but I'd been slightly grumpy thinking it was way more than this, so that cheered me up! What cheered me up even more is that there is enough wiggle room to extend #4 by 6mm right down at the collector (so it will be hidden), giving 7cc more volume and making it 539cc, and therefore all of them within ~1%. That'll do pig
  33. 9 points
    Early finish yesterday, and a cheeky little run out in the sunshine!
  34. 9 points
    As I have found the process of swapping my engine quite challenging, I decided that now was the time to put a plan together to bring the saga to a conclusion and thought I would share it, in case anyone else found it useful!
  35. 9 points
    They always empty bank accounts.
  36. 9 points
    Last Westie drive of the year this morning with the latest Mrs TJ as pax. In true James May , she shouts out ' Buffeting ' at anything above 60 . Complains about not warming up and when I stopped to take the photo on the way home.............................. opened the vent on her side . Didnt hear the end of it all the way back home Still , was a pleasant drive out this morning and an end to 2018 Westying
  37. 8 points
    Hello, Following this post and not wanting to hijack @corsechris build thread, I think it could be fitting to discuss 3D printing here. I bought my first 3D printer 3 years ago. Bought the cheapest available. All plastic construction. Turned oiut to be pretty decent. Fast forward to today, you can get desktop machines for very little money. I still use my 3 years old machine, that can build stuff 200mm x 200mm x 200mm, and have a creality ender 2 (bought for the kids, 150 quids, turned out impressively good for the money, build size 150 x 150 x 200). So that's nice, but whant can you do with it ? Well, pretty much anything that is plastic. I bought it as a geeky toy, but I have an engineering background and quickly started, after the mandatory keyrings or pokemons figurines for the kids, building stuff that actually works. Enclosures for electronic stuff (lots), weird plumbing fittings, brackets, collars, mounting brackets for motorbike, bucketloads of stuff. I am currently building a gauge for the westie, that will match smiths looks, but with a significant twist. I build a lot of jigs or templates quickly, either to lock two parts prior to welding (short lived jigs), routing templates for woodworking. And here is the thumbthing for resetting the odo on my smith speedo : I am a bit passionate about it, because it saves me a lot of time. Of course it is not the silver bullet to everything, plastic does not cope with high temperatures, and as you print one layer after the other, it's slow and there are some things ("overhangs") that can be problematic. But I found it a very cost effective AND cheap way to tackle small jobs. Printing material is inexpensive (circa 30 quids per kilo), there are a lot of different materials (colors, properties, temperature comfort zone, foodsafe, fire retardant, carbon fiber reinforced, metal loaded...) For many things in the engine bay, instead of welding a tab (engine out job ?) or drilling and putting a rivnut, I can print a bracket that will clamp the tube. Airbox ducts/angles will probably be 3d prints reinforced with an outer layer of fiber, acting as a template. This is, to me, a very effective time saving device, allowing me to design behind a computer (I use an old version of autodesk 123d design, free), have the damn stuff printed while I do something else with an angle grinder. Then get the thing from the printer, see that it doesn't fit, modify, and then reprint. Iterations of parts gets you there quickly with little human time. And with a basic digital caliper you can do A LOT. Parts are empty shells. Hollow. Well, not completey hollow. Injection molded parts are 100% plastic, but in 3D printing you chose what the inside is. So filling it with plastic makes the part heavier and takes longer to print. You can choose a pattern for the inside, I tend to do a lot of honeycomb infill, that tends to give you very light parts that are very sturdy. I have printed a backup clutch lever for the motorcycle in case of a spill, it was successfully tested. Anything from glovebox compartment, to hinges to pokemons, to rim emblems, to grille ornament, to bushings, control knob, mirror mounting brackets, velocitity stacks can be done. Parts "out of the printer", are not pristine, these are 0.2mm layers of plastic stacked together, so it shows a bit of staircase pattern in angles on the vertical plane. Can be sanded / finished too. And it's damn easy to use. It's even harder if you have mechanical experience, because you think part the other way round : instead of designing something that you can actually make, you need to start with the surfaces you need then build around them. There are bucketloads of tutorials on the interwebs, and vast repositories (https://www.thingiverse.com/ for example) of free stuff already designed. Try to search for your daily driver to see if that 80 quids parcel shelf clip thingy from the dealership was not available for printing. There are some printing services out there, that can do more exotic material (metal, but not THAT solid), industrial powder sintering machines can do way more, SLA printers can do way better looking pokemons, but it's amazing what you can achieve with an inexpensive desktop geeky toy. Lots of people use printed stuff as a pattern for home alloy casting (I may get there someday) It saved me so much time and money so far I thought I had to share. (Hell, the clips for securing multiple convoluted electrical tubings to the roof beam in the garage were worth it)
  38. 8 points
    I've now fitted my Carbon NV carbon tunnel cover and scuttle cover and I'm pretty chuffed with it Seeing how the forum loves a piccy (also showing the new FreeWheel steering wheel buttons).... Check out how the weave matches on the join just behind the gear lever - well pleased I'll get a photo of the scuttle later, complete with new battery cover and much tidied wiring
  39. 8 points
    Well, first failure on the car! I'd bought a proper exhaust mounting bobbin for the first time ever, but it seems it couldn't take the heat... So went back to my Plan A method of a bolt and an offcut of silicone hose. Had a bit of a panic when I realised the forecast for tomorrow was dire, and @Andrew pointed out that some TDOs insist on brake lights... so off came the scuttle (gave me a chance to improve the mounting system, it comes off in under a minute / 4 bolts now) and a wired in a fog light to the brake light switch, via my relay board. Also added 5th/6th mounting point to the drivers harness and moved the splitter by an inch, so it sticks out more. I've decided this one will be experimental so I'm gonna chop it about a bit before doing a final design in something lighter. Car is now on the trailer ready for Blyton tomorrow A dry forecast would have been nice to see what sort of lap times the car can do, but I love a bit of rain so it's all good, and should mean a bit less strain on all the components
  40. 8 points
    My friend Graham has been out and about today. I just thought this picture said it all. Graham did say to me at one point before he bought his car that he "just didn't get it" Looks like he has "got it" now.
  41. 8 points
    Mine. Don't have a brake pipe union near the tub, and also don't run side repeaters, don't see the point as MOT never look for them. I cut mine at an angle to follow the line of the bonnet/scuttle.
  42. 8 points
    Dashboard template
  43. 8 points
    First time out in the wild today
  44. 8 points
    Nice day for a drive around the South Downs with the sun making the colour(s) pop. Any other owners around Sussex?
  45. 8 points
    It appears I have Brexit enduced Tourette’s. After just a few seconds of watching I can’t help myself.... it starts with are they all Bleeping stupid. You’d never negotiate a used car buy like that you stupid bleeps. Have you not realised the UK is the EU’s biggest market you Bleeping bleep bleeps. I’d not trust you bleeps to run a bleeping bath let alone run a bleeping country... Corbin just shut the bleep up you are a cun—- bleep. Sorry I need to go lye down I feel a massive attack coming on!
  46. 8 points
    Wow you lot are just fantastic. Taking me down memory lane. I’ll have to dig out some of my stuff.
  47. 8 points
    A few more pics I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea but i’m loving it
  48. 8 points
    Hi, A bit of 'tinkering' today. Fitted the side screens and mirrors. If the roads are dry tomorrow I'm going to try and get out for a bit!
  49. 8 points
    It's big thank you time tonight. Over the last 8 weeks or so @CL290005 has been building me a wiring loom for the car. He has done an absolutely amazing job on it and tonight we strapped it into the chassis. There is still more to do on it dashboard side but it is a massive step forward. It fits like a glove. We started off at the end of November by laying a rope through the car and taping/ labelling it up with take offs, connections etc. Chris then took this away and started thinking about the loom. We went through a couple of fuseboxes (BMW Mini and Corsa) before finding one that fitted the needs. I sourced a Vauxhall Corsa C column complete as well as a matching wiper motor and assembly which I hope to use. As the weeks have gone by we have got together a few times to lay the loom in the car to check for cable lengths and positions. So here are a few photos of the loom when being built And the moment before we started fitting it to the chassis
  50. 8 points
    Wee bit more done. Finished off the right side cycle wing mounting and tweaked the front brake flexis to accommodate the extra metalwork that now lives where the flexis used to go.... Flexi stays well clear of everything over entire steering range and suspension travel. With the wings in place, I could then work out where the headlamp mounts needed to be. They look a long way out from the chassis I think, but that's down to how long the front wishbones are. Have to achieve that 400mm maximum from outer edge figure, so it is what it is. To be safe, I've gone for centre of headlight at 400mm, and will have the indicator directly below it on some faux carbon Caterfield style mounts so they will also achieve the 400mm maximum figure OK as well. Height-wise I'm aiming for the bottom of the headlamp lens to be at about 505mm or thereabouts (500mm minimum stipulated). I can fine-tune that with ride height and spacers as needed. I've made the mounts, but not fitted them yet. Still need to enlarge the headlamp fixing holes, but that's easily done once they are welded to the car. Don't want to risk damage to the visible surfaces by clamping it to drill it. I needed it to have a small hole during assembly so I could make a decent stab at smoothing it by putting a bolt through the hole, popping it in the battery drill then spinning it against the belt sander. Ended up pretty good doing it like that - way better than trying to do it hand-held with the kit I have available. One mount shown below, made from a short piece of 38mm tube with some 3mm plate for a top cap and some 32mm tube for the 'arm'. It's set up so the fixing is within the vertical tube, I'll have the wires coming out of the back of the bowl rather than through the fixing. This way it'll be really easy to adjust the headlamp aim without having to mess with slotted box spanners and I don't want the wires getting too close to the suspension either. I've rounded off the bottom edge of the vertical tube but suspect it'll still need some sort of rubber bung for IVA. I used a bit of left-over seamless so its pretty thick-walled. Lovely stuff to work with. And roughly in place. Not as close to the wishbone as it looks here, it sits forward of it, but I have yet to double-check at full bump. Will do that before I weld it in place...... Before I weld, I need to cobble together some sort of jig to hold them both in place and make sure they are reasonably square/plumb. Somewhat fiddly as the top chassis rails are at about 7 degrees downward angle. That's likely it for a few days - it's going cold now, and I'm a soft southern Jessie. Besides, it's hard to weld when the mask steams up on the inside.
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