Mooch Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Dare I say my wheel nuts have never had a torque wrench anywhere close to them my wheels are on and off so often I just do them up till they feel tight If that's what the Guru says, that's what goes - but I confess to being taken aback by the answer! I shall set the torque somewhere between "3 white knuckles" and "two grunts and a groan" on the wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamf Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 I use 80lb/ft to guard against this Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 When I was being apprenticed the only things a torque wrench was used for was head nuts/bolts, big ends and mains. I was taught how much to tighten everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanReid Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 The old build manual has bitten me, I took it all a little lierally. For weeks I was scratching my head about the floor pan panels, and was unable to locate any in my pile of parts. It turns out that in the latest models the floor pan is welded into the chasis, and therefore there is no need for any panels. Doh, but I can't be the only person who has scratched his head over this, or am I? Also the manual also talks about needing to make a fold on the inner tunnel panels. Again this is outdated information. Apparently this was when there was only one inner tunnel panel, now there are two, one that ends at the inner footwell, and one that begins there and goes to the bulkhead. I did actually make a fold in one of my panels:-( Hopefully it's being sorted with two new panels coming from Westfield. Apart from my mistake they were too short anyhow. That aside is there anyone who can recommend a good compact drill that I can use with the 4.1mm drill bit to make the required holes in the chasis for the bulkhead panel on the drivers side. The presence of the mounts for the pdeals means my drill can't get in there for the holes on the top of the panel. If that is too confusing I can post a picture, but I think it comes down to needing a very compact drill, that isn't as long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Air drills are small and right angled. You'll need a compressor though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Dremel with a flexible extension also works well, not as well as air tools, but well enough if the bit is sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I think I got in there ok with a normal cordless drill. was before floor panel fitted (the one under the drivers feet). just went in at a bit of an angle. rivets ender up flat so should be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooch Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I bought a 90 degree chuck off Amazon for a few quid. Did the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 toolstation do a cheap one, about £12. just be gentle with it or the gears will start slipping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanReid Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I think I got in there ok with a normal cordless drill. was before floor panel fitted (the one under the drivers feet). just went in at a bit of an angle. rivets ender up flat so should be ok Just to update the thread, I've now got this panel installed. I ordered the 90degree chuck (in fact I've now got two, but that's another story), but found it didn't help. The real issue was that the drill kept slipping, meaning it never stayed long enough in one place to drill the hole. I finally solved the issue by clamping a piece of wood behind the panel near the top, and used this a rest for the drill, which stopped it slipping long enough to make the hole. It's not the neatest job in the World but all the rivets are in place, and the job is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 A piece of masking tape on the area to be drilled will stop drill run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawnabie Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 The manual states a M18 tap is required for the upper front wishbones, is wrong - you will need a M14 x 1.5 tap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djm Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 The manual states a M18 tap is required for the upper front wishbones, is wrong - you will need a M14 x 1.5 tap! Yes annoying when you have bought the tap ready for the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobMet Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 OK, so lets restart this Mazda SDV tips thread. I've been running my MX5 Mk1 1600 Mazdafield for 4 years now and its about to go on its 3rd trip around France. The build was a great experience and so is the ownership, but now I'm thinking of building another one. Early Mk1 MX5 1600s like the one I used as a donor are getting a bit long in the tooth so I'm thinking of a Mk2 1800. Or if the Mk2 is out of the question how about later Mk1 1800s? Question is, what differences are there relative to the Mk1 1600 that we need to be aware of when buying bits and planning the build? And one specific question, is there any difference in engine height from bottom of sump to top of camcover? Reason I ask is that rather than shorten my sump I raised the engine by 25 mm and that works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenD Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 i may be wrong bob but i dont think there are many differences that affect the actual build i know obviously the engine is different and the diff and the drive shafts. the inlet manifold is slightly different and the 1.8 has an oil cooler i think and i think the hubs are slightly different because of the drive shafts and the brakes are slightly bigger but apart from that. but like i say im not completly sure because i have a 1.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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