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Which are the best oils to use?


Boomy

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Oil advice required:-
 
This is the spec of my Westfield kit car engine:-
1760cc X Flow engine built to custom stage four spec
Accralite forged pistons
ARP bolts throughout
dry sump
motorsport spec oil pump.
Cylinder Head fully gas flowed with modified ports with matched set of valve springs including big valve head and hardened valve seats
Cutting and throating of valve seat areas to accommodate bigger valves
Full engine balance Crankshaft reground and polished
All new mains and big end bearings
Decked pistons and block
Steel main caps and block line bored
High performance fast rally camshaft fitted
 
Its now done 1300 miles since rebuild. Any recommendations on oil spec and synthetic or mineral?
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Valvoline VR1 20W 50 mineral. IMHO synthetic oils are better suited to modern engines only.

Mart.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
On 12/05/2013 at 07:56, Norman Verona said:

I've always used Mobil 1. I read an independent report of a BMW used as a taxi in New York. It was jointly owned by two brothers who used it 24 hours a day 6 days a week.

 

It had Mobil 1 which was changed on the due mileage intervals.

 

The engine was stripped in a lab and measurements revealed no appreciable wear. The cam lobes still had the original machining marks.

 

The mileage at this strip down was 320,000 miles.

 

Good enough for me. 

 

ed to add a postscript.

 

Are US miles the same as UK miles?  :)

Mobil 1 used to be true synthetic

 

I understand it is not anymore

 

There are very few true synthetic oils left since a judge ruled non-synthetic oils that met minimum specs for synthetic could be labeled "full synthetic" - Mobil tried suing Castrol to remove "full synthetic" and failed - then apparently could not justify the expense of 100% synthetic just so they could put synthetic on the label.

 

In North America there are some Penzoils and Amsoil labeled "100% synthetic". The term "100% synthetic" appears to mean what it says. "Full synthetic" appears to not require actual synthetic oil.

 

A youtube site called "project farm" does some testing on video grading different oils called synthetic - enlightening.

 

I am using 0W40 Penzoil 100% synthetic. My reasoning is real synthetic is superior (I have personally seen it more than double the life of a machine) and the thinish oil on startup will lubricate better when cold and I wait until the engine oil (not water) is warmed up before I seriously load the engine.

 

And of course, a mile is a mile.

 

Added from wikipediea:Some "synthetic" oil is made from Group III base stock, some from Group IV. Some from a blend of the two. Mobil sued Castrol and Castrol prevailed in showing that their Group III base stock oil was changed enough that it qualified as full synthetic. Since then API has removed all references to Synthetic in their documentation regarding standards. "Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality.

 

REPEAT: "Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality.

 

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On 30/12/2019 at 12:19, MR.C said:

Whats the old saying,all wear is done within the first five seconds!

In which case a thinner oil is going to get to the wearing surfaces quicker.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm running with Royal Purple oils , in the BEC Race car, the Freelander, the motor home and the Vivaro dog van

the last race car engine rebuild the builder commented on how clean the internals were.

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  • 9 months later...

What oil do people recommend for the Black top zetec? And filter?

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  • 11 months later...
On 12/02/2006 at 23:02, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman said:

Mines a '91 or '92 Redtop, been running fine on 5w/40 (Silkolene Pro S) fully synth.

@Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman - I like your story on the detergent pack in the Silkolene 5w40! Is that still available (the thread is 2006!) and, if so, would it be a good fit for the Zetec 2l Blacktop? See, someone does read the archives….😀

  • Haha 1
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Hi David, sorry, only just catching up with some forum stuff this afternoon.

 

While I can't advise on the specific grade, though Opie Oils, (who I've used for oil for years now, give very, very good advice on that side of things. They aren't the cheapest, but the service is good, they do regular offers, and there is also a Westfield Club discount code, too).

 

The Silkolene Pro Race S etc are now branded as "Fuchs Titan Race Pro S" in whichever grade you need.

 

My Honda runs on the 5W-40 version, for example. (Bought some two weeks ago, ready for the winter oil change!)

 

The first time i used the Race Pro S, was on a Vauxhall XE "temporary" engine, that was going in to my previous Westfield, while the original engine came out to have a massive upgrade and rebuild. I needed to swap the baffled sump, and the modified cam cover from old to the the new engines, for the period it was in the car.

 

The temp engine was a good condition but high mileage used engine, previously kept as a spare by another member, bought for the task. 

 

Opening it up to do the parts swap, it was exactly what you'd expect of a basically decent 70k plus Vauxhall XE; plenty of gunge and deposits in the "corners" of castings etc, lots of that film of "gum" you get on the aly parts at the top of the engine and so on. A good honest untouched unit. That I kick myself I never took photos of!

 

After a year or so in the car, on the (then) Sikolene, and however many thousand miles it was. The temp engine came out, and the various covers/sump etc had to be swapped back on to the main engine.

 

With the temp engine opened up, I literally stood there in shock; couldn't believe it was the same engine. It looked internally, like it was the brand new, freshly re-built engine, where everything had gone through parts washers etc. All the deposits were gone, the gum/tarnishing build up had gone it was all lovely and "clean" now. (All be it the oil was dirty and ready for changing - the crud had to go somewhere!!)

 

Oil T's and P's have always been spot on with the Silkolene/Fuchs oil, even with the engine worked hard, and it's been the same story with the Honda.

 

I did have way back when, one of those oil chemistry tests done on the XE, after a few years in, on the uprated performance engine, and it was showing minimal wear traces, which would help back up how well protected it was.

 

HTH's

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  • 1 month later...


I use the millers in my zetec and at the track it holds at least 15 psi more oil pressure than the cheaper oil shown in the pictures below. Also when I have been in side the engine it shows no signs of any issues on the cheaper oil, I just feel more comfortable with the better oil pressure when hot and the millers is designed to do the job under those more stressed conditions.

 I checked with millers and they said the cfs 5w 40 exceeds the spec needed and will work well even if the oil gets hotter than normal.

Fords spec is SAE 5W-30 Synthetic    
 

OEM WSS-M2C913-C  so if it has this on the container then it matches fords spec.

 

      
4F4F604D-EB67-445D-A6BD-5DE7E214D12C_thumb_jpeg_fbe12dbeb66a8bae4278d295aade4bcd.jpg.60da367868a65ba6fb5eb40679e4e578.jpg4436511F-87CA-4D80-B8DF-140C1D4BB295_thumb_jpeg_8e953ab3239250584131b7adf48dfd5d.jpg.cf8c5914d4742b9efa146bff9ed7485e.jpg

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