BugMan Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Just looking at the front hubs, and put the as yet un-loaded SS brake lines in to the calipers and I'm after some advice. I've put sufficient twist in the SS brake lines that they are nice and clear as the steering goes lock to lock - Is this OK or do they need to be attached to the upper suspension arm, and if so is it just cables ties? And then along the same lines I'm also after advice on routing the sensor cable for the speed, which i h ave just sheathed in split conduit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy (Sycho) Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 You don't need to cable tie the brake pipe but it shouldn't touch anything. I ran my cable under the underside of the top wishbone, I also ran the indicator wire in the same conduit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BugMan Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Just now, Sycho said: You don't need to cable tie the brake pipe but it shouldn't touch anything. I ran my cable under the underside of the top wishbone, I also ran the indicator wire in the same conduit. Was that with a cable tie or 2, or some other fastener approach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter (Monty) Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Opinions are mixed, you can do either. Mine are secured to the top wishbones. Either way they need to flex comfortably lock to lock without risk of catching on anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy (Sycho) Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Just now, BugMan said: Was that with a cable tie or 2, or some other fastener approach? Cable ties, small thin ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter (Monty) Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Terrible photo, but I put a thick cable tie around the wishbone, plus an adhesive cable tie base on the underside to stop it sliding along side to side. There are then two small cable ties going around the thick cable tie and around the hose, with some convoluted tubing. This ensures the edges of the cable ties aren't rubbing against the hose due to twisting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BugMan Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Using cables ties as advised, thanks very much appreciated I used some more of my favorite self amalgamating tape on both the arms and the conduit, nice and secure and clear lock-to-lock Thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 I found that what I thought was OK , I wasted a lot of time, as when the car sat on the ground , I needed to adjust it again. So, dont get too involved with it, as you dont even have the bodywork on and it can touch that as well. You can tweak the hoses without the need to rebleed the brakes, just loosen the lock nut and solid pipe on the chassis and twist it a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Also, just be cautious with things like self amalgamating tape. It certainly has its place, but one of the stated aims of a lot of IVA inspectors is to see kit builders using solutions and methods you’d see on a mainstream manufacturers vehicle. Yet at the same time, many have something of a dislike for certain uses of adhesive tape and stuck on covers. They used to have a favourite trick, where you’d used what they considered to be an unacceptable method of covering/fixing something. They simply ask to examine what was underneath. So you’d cut off the covering, and then they’d fail you on a lack of covering, unless you had some proper way of reinstating it, there and then. Whereas tie wraps, which you can quickly replace with fresh, and split tubing, they seem to absolutely love! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BugMan Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 Point taken Dave, may re-visit 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler (Adge) - Dorset AO Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 @BugMan Fully support previous comments. You'll have the indicator repeater wiring to incorporate as well. Something to tweek when build complete, and you're nervously awaiting IVA! Couldn't keep my brake flexibles away from wishbones not matter how hard I tried, so put split conduit on, and double cable tied onto wishbone. Inspector checked brake hoses, but didn't comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted January 12, 2018 Share Posted January 12, 2018 13 minutes ago, AdgeC said: @BugMan Fully support previous comments. You'll have the indicator repeater wiring to incorporate as well. Something to tweek when build complete, and you're nervously awaiting IVA! Couldn't keep my brake flexibles away from wishbones not matter how hard I tried, so put split conduit on, and double cable tied onto wishbone. Inspector checked brake hoses, but didn't comment. Same here, as I had the Sport Turbo front anti roll bar which hangs from the back of the front top wishbone bolt. I asked my examiner after test about them and he said loosely tying as I had done with double ties was fine and I'd also covered the hose with split conduit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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