Kevin Pullen Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 Probably been asked loads of times before as have searched but can’t find my specific question Pinto 2.1 Vulcan engineering engine with Weber twin choke carbs road use only thinking of changing to an electronic version to get rid of points, So is the Accuspark ones on EBay with vacuum the way to go (don’t need anything fancy) assume it’s best to change the distributor for a new one as well not just the Hall effect sensor thingy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Capri-MKI-II-1-6-2-0-Pinto-Electronic-Ignition-Distributor-Red-Rotor-Plugs/180764843758?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 I used an Aldon Ignitor on mine and have never looked back over more than ten years use. Vacuum isn't a lot of good with individual manifold ducts because the vacuum is 'pulsed' too much. On a common manifold the depression is averaged out over all the inlets. Best to ditch the vacuum. Aldon Ignitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pullen Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Weber 38 dgas jetted to suit and on a ported manifold with choke removed fitted on mine has 2 vacuum connections, price of the Aldon unit is more than the full dizzy coil leads and plugs set on Ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grizzlee Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 @bollockybill and myself recently fitted an AccuSpark dizzy and coil to @John K 's Mr Grumpy. Must say we were impressed with the quality of the kit, and it works. No external amplifier to fit so it maintains the old skool look. We went for the non vacuum as Mr G. is fitted with twin 40's for the reason mentioned above. Think John is pretty happy with the running too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I'm using a basic Ford ignition system that was used on early 1.6 Sierras, P100s, etc. It has a separate amplifier. There used to be loads on ebay for peanuts, but having just looked, none about now. It's worked fine for 15 years or so.. I recently had the distributor advance curve tweaked, but can't say I noticed much difference. If I was doing it again, I think I'd just go for one of the kits that swap the points out for a trigger mechanism.. I see Accuspark ones on ebay around the £35 mark? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 The one drawback with a simple points eliminator and a non-vacuum distributor is that you have to set the static ignition timing so far advanced, to ensure correct timing at high revs, that starting becomes a challenge. The starter meets resistance from the engine trying to fire so far ahead of TDC that it's trying to run backwards. I pump my throttle (twin Dellortos) a dozen times and then spin the starter with no throttle or choke (choke control removed) until the engine starts 'helping' the starter and the cranking speed rises. The is the time to give a little throttle and it starts. If I had a fully electronic system I'd map it so that the ignition was 0º advance at 0 - 500 rpm (say) to allow easy starting, and then a normal advance curve above a very low idle. But I haven't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 10 minutes ago, Man On The Clapham Omnibus said: The one drawback with a simple points eliminator and a non-vacuum distributor is that you have to set the static ignition timing so far advanced, to ensure correct timing at high revs, that starting becomes a challenge. The starter meets resistance from the engine trying to fire so far ahead of TDC that it's trying to run backwards. I pump my throttle (twin Dellortos) a dozen times and then spin the starter with no throttle or choke (choke control removed) until the engine starts 'helping' the starter and the cranking speed rises. The is the time to give a little throttle and it starts. If I had a fully electronic system I'd map it so that the ignition was 0º advance at 0 - 500 rpm (say) to allow easy starting, and then a normal advance curve above a very low idle. But I haven't... I know the problem with the standard dizzy is that it has too much advance, but my car's never suffered from bad starting. Quite the opposite actually. As you say a few pumps on the peddle and mine normally fires first kick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 You are lucky Andrew. I've had two Westfield with Pinto engines and both had this problem. It's not insurmountable but you do need to know the technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Man On The Clapham Omnibus said: You are lucky Andrew. I've had two Westfield with Pinto engines and both had this problem. It's not insurmountable but you do need to know the technique. Pump pump pump etc etc... terr ... rrrrer ...brrrappppp! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilfman Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I have the lumenition performance ignition pack and mine starts first turn of the key from warm or second turn if stone cold. Again, 4 or 5 pumps of the pedal before firing usually does the trick. Lumenition Performance kit is a couple of hundred quid though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 You've missed your vocation Andrew! I used to do a passingly good imitation of a Central Line train with all the compressor and motor control noises - until they put on new ones that don't make any interesting hisses and clonks! I do love the bark of the carbs at a couple of thousand revs I must say. You need to avoid that speed when drive-by sound checks are done though. Mine pops and bangs on the over-run when the silencer gets really hot on a track day - the idle settings on the carbs let just enough fuel through on closed throttles when running down to a bend. Loverly! Poor fuel injected chaps don't have any fun do they... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pullen Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Mine struggles to start unless I do 3-4 pumps let it spin up then allow a bit of throttle as well So go non vacuum and blank of vacuum from carbs then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man On The Clapham Omnibus Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 That is the most usual way, but I cannot give you a definitive answer except to say that a vacuum take off from just one branch of a four-way manifold isn't going to be satisfactory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pullen Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Found this BESTEK setup on Ebay after asking about getting it fast road with variable map On your engine I would suggest 10 degrees at 1k, 1... New message from: b3stj (428) On your engine I would suggest 10 degrees at 1k, 16 at 2k, 22 at 3k, 28 at 4k and all in at 35 degrees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Pullen Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Selling a few rc cars and bits so thinking of getting something a little more high end what are the best /reasonable options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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