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Thrustyjust

Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

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18 hours ago, Thrustyjust said:

 

 

I also decided that by speccing my car with black dials , then the look of the 'chrome' warning lights from the factory look a bit ................. wrong. So, I had ordered an LED set to fit. Now I had the ones for between the dials, but the heated windscreen and brake warning light werent available, so have to just change those yet when they arrive. I cant get an orange heated screen light, so I have ordered a light bulb one as thats got a filament in it like the screen :d After discussion with our guru electronics engineer @IanK (Bagpuss) regarding led load on the battery light and creating enough field to charge . I decided to try it without any inline resistance to see if it works. Well, the Honda alternator was happy with the load and light went straight out. I checked it charging and was ticking at 14.5v . They seem a lot smarter and blend in with the gauges. 

 

 

I'm so glad this has worked. For anyone else wanting to change from filament bulb to LED for charge warning light, If you're not as lucky as TJ, I'd suggest circa 100 ohms in parrallel with the LED and it's series current limiting resistor to ensure the field winding of the alternator is suitably working to produce output volts!

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Well, I pretty much completed my winter tinkering last night. The weather had dried up so thought I'd nip out for a cheeky "test" drive. Put my coat on, started the engine, opened the garage door and.... it was raining again.:angry:

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1 hour ago, Kevin Wood said:

Well, I pretty much completed my winter tinkering last night. The weather had dried up so thought I'd nip out for a cheeky "test" drive. Put my coat on, started the engine, opened the garage door and.... it was raining again.:angry:

Something us southerners have had to endure by the bucket load ! Thought I saw a dry bit of tarmac this evening. Its been rare !! 

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All my winter tinkering is done and it’s ready to go...

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On 10/04/2018 at 22:40, Thrustyjust said:

I know this should have ended 10 days ago, but since we are waiting for @BillyPee to get the engine in and running, we may as well as well keep this going :d

Sorry for keeping this going beyond winter; it was not my intention!

It is taking longer than expected but that always seems to be the case. Anyway, as of yesterday, the engine is now in.

engine_in.thumb.jpg.acbde61473c52e80c7e671fda41de825.jpg

Still plenty of work to do though. Better get back to it.

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My thoughts have now turned to the wiring of the new starter motor and alternator. I thought it would be an easy swap but there are enough differences between what I had and what the instructions say that I thought it best to double-check with you guys as wiring is not my strong point and there is no guarantee that it was right before!

The old setup featured a separate Lucas starter solenoid and starter motor but the new Brise starer motor has the starter solenoid incorporated. The old Lucas starter solenoid looks like this:

starter_solenoid_bottom.thumb.jpg.ab2ee30006c56c4f83fa542ae1aac47b.jpg

 

starter_solenoid_top.thumb.jpg.c4bf0237c83554568b81631fc9624429.jpg

The 2 big threaded terminals are the positive and negative. Positive had the thick red wire from the killswitch, 2 brown wires to the alternator, and a thin red wire which I assume was the fuel pump. The third smaller spade terminal had a white/red wire.

The new Brise starter motor looks like this.

brise_starter.thumb.jpg.d4e75bb72f4ec75270f0bf569b901a0e.jpg

Is the big terminal is where I attach what was on the positive terminal of the old starter solenoid? Is it that simple?

I then have a connector/plug but I don't have the female connector for this. I have had a look on Polevolt but it is not obvious which connector this is. Can anyone help me identify it please? Or perhaps I should just replace with an alternative?

brise_starter_connector.thumb.jpg.146bf6e0a812409b16f1c61fb17ea75e.jpg

brise_starter_connector_2.thumb.jpg.5e203547c9c311eeccdac15bb79ccb70.jpg

Finally, am I correct in thinking that this will connect to the red/white wire that was connected to the smaller spade terminal on the old starter solenoid?

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yes the large empty terminal on the brise takes your bunch of wires off the positive and the single wire with the connector goes to “ start “ on the ignition key, sorry can’t help with the type of connection so I would change to a known pair of connectors 

hth 

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On 16/04/2018 at 22:56, Garyt said:

yes the large empty terminal on the brise takes your bunch of wires off the positive and the single wire with the connector goes to “ start “ on the ignition key, sorry can’t help with the type of connection so I would change to a known pair of connectors 

hth 

Thanks Gary, that is a big help.

I took some (not particularly great) photos of the wires that went to the old starter solenoid before dismantling.

starter_solenoid_wiring_1.thumb.jpg.a059912ac44cca13f5398556c7f8bae0.jpg

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As you can see, the negative threaded terminal has a thick black wire connected to it. Does this simply piggyback onto the terminal that has the thick cable going to starter motor proper? In the instructions, it says "Please do not paint any part of the starter mounting bracket as this can cause bad earthing" so I assume that is how it is earthed (via mounting to the bell housing).

The other change I need to make is to the alternator plug. It has changed from a 3-pin to a 2-pin. The old Lucas alternator looked like this:

IMG_2136.thumb.jpg.a3ffffc8d2cfe76a19972598dfde73f5.jpg

With a 3-pin plug.

IMG_2376.thumb.jpg.00e76841a90980604ae4362bf63d272b.jpg

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The 2 brown wires bell-out on the two on the starter solenoid. The thinner brown/yellow wire I did not trace but I assume is for the dashboard warning light.

The instructions for the Brise alternator includes this diagram:

IMG_2424.thumb.jpg.3d3a8e44deee579a8cd80c073ba8c217.jpg

Am I right in thinking:

  • the brown/yellow wire on my old plug connects to L (yellow wire) on the new
  • it does not matter which thick brown wire I connect to the IG (green wire) as they both bell-out on the starter solenoid positive terminal
  • the redundant thick brown wire is to be removed

What I am confused about is the B+ connection. It looks like I need to make up a thick red cable. Does this go back to the starter solenoid positive terminal (like the redundant brown wire)?

Apologies in advance for all the questions, I am just trying to get my head around what goes where.

Cheers,
Bill

Edited by BillyPee
Corrected photo order

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Hi the other big terminal is NOT negative it’s the starter positive lead if you imagine the two large terminals with a T under neath them the thin red white wire push’s the top of the T bridges them giving power to the starter

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As above, DO NOT connect the heavy brown permanent battery life to the small IG terminal,  they go to the heavy B+ terminal.

The IG terminal needs to connect to a convenient green ignition live wire. I would guess the alternator you're using is one that doesn't use the bulb feed as the exciter wire, just as a status warning. The IG feed will be the actual exciter connection.

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Finally started my list!!!!!........

Done in the last 3 weeks......

OMP suede 300mm steering wheel with Rapfix quick release fitted.

JAP bar removed and replaced with RAC rollbar which was stripped and re-powdercoated.

LED high level brake light fitted with wiring concealed in rollbar.

Boot box cut to accommodate diagonal braces, reworked with sleeves for brace bars and completed by painting satin black

Existing fuel pump moved inboard and away from rear wheel (as per standard Westfield recommendation!)

Fuel tank purged, polished and refitted with improved restraining strap fittings.

Fuel sensor recalibrated so car shows full and empty accurately.

New SAE J30 R9 fuel lines from pump to carbs using stainless fuel hose clamps.

Wiring tidied up, joints soldered as necessary and shrink tubed to finish.

Inside of boot area degreased and washed down before boot box replaced with new fastening bolts.

Softbits half hood fitted.

Oil and filter changed.

 

Remaining to do.....

Powder coat wheels gloss black

Replace rubber heater hoses with silicone

Wash and treat Pipercross air filter

Cut a further 1/8 inch off bonnet air filter cut-out to prevent pinching the foam filter.

Wash and polish!!!

 

Car started and running after been SORN and standing since mid-November.

Taxed from 1st May and hopefully out and about the week after

:sun:

 

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