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geoffd

Points replacement

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Thank you all for your contributions.  Thrustyjust did hit the nail on the head a couple of posts ago, so that's what I will do to start with.  

I think that if I go down the mapped ignition route, I will add EFI, and I might as well rebuild the whole engine too!  I don't have the time to do this at the moment.

Kevin, thank you for your kind offer, I'll be in touch by PM.

This is a great community!

Geoff

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23 hours ago, Thrustyjust said:

That all maybe true but the original poster just wants to stop his points from closing, so missing the point a bit here :d

Not at all, just the logical conclusion of upgraditis. 

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I used one of these Aldon Ignitor on my Pinto back in 2004 and I had even forgotten I'd done it until you asked this question. It's exactly what you need for the simplest remedy.

All that being so, I am tempted by going the whole hog with 'proper' electronic ignition because I have starting problems with high CR but mainly due to the advanced static timing. The engine fights back at the starter! Time to dust off the wallet...

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On 29/03/2017 at 13:09, geoffd said:

The mighty crossflow has a tendency for the points to close up after not many miles.  This results in a less than mighty performance.

It's inconvenient to keep resetting the points, so I was thinking about replacing the points with one of the electronic units that fit in the distributor, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180697672115?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Is this likely to be reliable and easy to fit?  I would appreciate any advice you can give.

Geoff

 

Hi Geoff.

I used the AccuSpark replacement distributor (the kit came with dizzy, coil, HT leads, etc.) on my crossflow for a couple of years. I assume that the part you have linked to is what was inside the distributor in my kit. I expect it will work well as, although I had problems with mine, the problem I had was that the distributor cap would not fit properly and that the clamps that hold it down would just ping off. When the cap did stay in place, the car ran well. Given the relatively small price, I would be tempted to give that a go as you have little to lose.

FYI, I have now gone distributor-less, with an OMEX 200 ECU. It is an improvement but also a big investment of both time (to fit) and money (reckon on £1000 by the time you have had it mapped).

Kind regards,
Bill

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On 29/03/2017 at 13:09, geoffd said:

The mighty crossflow has a tendency for the points to close up after not many miles.  This results in a less than mighty performance.

It's inconvenient to keep resetting the points, so I was thinking about replacing the points with one of the electronic units that fit in the distributor, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180697672115?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Is this likely to be reliable and easy to fit?  I would appreciate any advice you can give.

Geoff

 

 

I went with one of those 3 years ago, it's been solid ever since. You'll need some very small stubby screwdrivers to get in under the inlet manifold.

It throws the advance out by a few degrees, so you will need a basic timing gun, just note the timing before and then set it back again after fitment by rotating the dizzy body.

You might want to buy a spare to keep in the boot though just in case, as I would question the long term reliability of an electronic component attached to a very hot engine. No real issue though as it used to be common to carry spare points many years ago.

This year or next i'm planning on adding an Aldon Amethyst to get the advance curve under better control.

 

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Its easier to mark the distributor and clamp and remove the distributor and fit the kit . Lots of space then. Especially if you need to swing the timing afterwards anyway.

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I finally got round to fitting the Accuspark points replacement.  With this, and a new battery, the car now starts well.  But it runs terribly!  Lots of stuttering and lack of power.  The idle speed is high too - about 1000 when cold, higher when warm.

A mechanic suggested that retarding the ignition might help, so I'm going to try that.  Just to help me do this, which way do you turn the distributor to retard?

Geoff

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I think the difficulty of buying one of the electronic gizmos to fit yourself in your distributor is that they should be mapped to your camshaft timing in an ideal world. Fine if you are running a production engine on a standard cam., but not so good if you are using a hot cam with increased valve overlap. If you buy from Aldon (a complete distributor with electronic gizmo) they will want to know what auto advance curve you need, which if you are using a known hot cam profile they can specify. If you see what I mean.

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6 minutes ago, stephenh said:

I think the difficulty of buying one of the electronic gizmos to fit yourself in your distributor is that they should be mapped to your camshaft timing in an ideal world. Fine if you are running a production engine on a standard cam., but not so good if you are using a hot cam with increased valve overlap. If you buy from Aldon (a complete distributor with electronic gizmo) they will want to know what auto advance curve you need, which if you are using a known hot cam profile they can specify. If you see what I mean.

The' Gizmos', Stephen , usually just replace the points and nothing else. They are designed to stop any 'points bounce' and points closing , lobe wear on the distributor spindle and give a stronger spark. The weights are on the spindle, which splits the spindle from the lobes to the gear attached to the camshaft. The speed of the engine, obviously spins the spindle in the distributor and this creates inertia to adjust the time of the spark. Getting a distributor to follow the design specifications of an engine with variable componentry is very difficult. Aldon can fit various weights, but it wont give a true ignition curve through out the rev range. Most rolling roads will set an engine up to give maximum output and adjust the timing to this. But the drawback is that the lower speed , which you mostly drive at is then going to suffer. Mid range revs,say at motorway speeds could be at a timing point that runs quite far out of optimum timing. Idle can also suffer. Aldons distributor can make these better than a non adjusted weighted distributor, but its always a compromise.

Obviously the best way for ignition is to dump the distributor and utilise electronics , timing wheel and crank sensor and set up in steps on a rolling road to optimise. It will give an optimum for midrange , while being set for flat out and give less chance of melted pistons ( common on crossflows !) running hot on too much advance at the wrong time and various other maladies. It also will run cleaner, sweeter and tickover better with lumpy cams.

Sorry for the long post, i'll hide under the stone again now :d

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Thanks for all your comments.  There's no need to hide under stones!

I'm not looking to spend much on the car at the moment.  I don't know what cam is in the engine, and there doesn't seem much point in spending a lot on a full electronic ignition without a full engine rebuild, replacing the carbs with fuel injection, then getting a new gearbox, refurbing the diff, etc.  I just want the car to run well so I can enjoy driving it.

I hope it will be dry later on so I can have a go at setting the timing to see if that has a beneficial effect.

Geoff

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