Thrustyjust Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Maybe the pressure plate is too proud ? What a pain !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marto303 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 13 minutes ago, Quinten said: @Marto303, apologies if this has not been clear from the start. The engine, flywheel, clutch and cover plate I bought were used with a MT75. And I am now trying to fit it to my Sierra Type 9 with an RS2000 bellhousing that previously worked for decades on a Crossflow. Q I suspect you may need a different clutch for the type 9, I have some old catalogs at work, I'll have a look on Monday try and find what the differences are between the two. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 3 minutes ago, Thrustyjust said: There is some measurements on this bearing at Burtons, see if they measure up http://www.burtonpower.com/release-bearing-ford-pinto-cos-2wd-essex-cologne-ecb113.html And different measurements for this xflow bearing http://www.burtonpower.com/clutch-release-bearing-ford-escort-mk2-x-flow-type-2-gearbox-ecb114.html Well, the images look identical, but the measurements differ slightly ECB113 (Pinto) ID: 34mmOD: 64mmThickness: 32.5mmBearing type: Flat face ECB112 (Xflow) ID: 30mmOD: 64mmThickness: 32.5mmBearing type: Flat face My ID is 34mm, so it would indicate it is already the ECB113. The thickness on both is 32.5mm, which is exactly what I have too... 2 minutes ago, Thrustyjust said: Maybe the pressure plate is too proud ? What a pain !! Yes, a royal pain... I knew there would be challenges on the way, but so far it's been nothing but plain sailing. I haven't even started a new topic on my handbrake yet 2 minutes ago, Marto303 said: Q I suspect you may need a different clutch for the type 9, I have some old catalogs at work, I'll have a look on Monday try and find what the differences are between the two. M Yes please @Marto303. I really don't want to buy a new clutch and whatever next, but then again, if I don't, I've got a very expensive door stop in the garage... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 On 08/01/2017 at 19:44, Quinten said: Cheers Martin. I can't see how the release bearing gets released from the pressure plate? The clutch fork sits behind it, but is not attached to the bearing, so once you've pushed it against the pressure plate, and the fork returns, how does the bearing return? Is it the rotational force that 'pushes' it back against the fork? Although I've now figured out how fork and bearing are connected, I'm still a little unsure on how the fork (with bearing) returns to the position away from the fingers. By my understanding, the fork is pulled towards the fingers as you press on the clutch pedal using your foot. But what makes the pedal come back up again? As far as I am aware, I do not have a spring on the clutch pedal, and with the clutch cable not fastened, the pedal has dropped on the floor (ish). There is also not a spring pulling the fork back (although there is a spring visible in my pictures, I can not see this spring on any of the 100s of images found on google for a type 9, so I am assuming this spring actually serves no real purpose). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamperMan Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 I might be incorrect!, it has been know before!.... The fingers clearly push the bearing back when you take your foot off the clutch. As long as the bearing is not loaded against the fingers its fine. BUT!!!! My clutch arm starts to reach resonance and start rattling and bouncing off the fingers after ~15s if idling. I was thinking of putting a weak tension spring off the arm to something behind to just lift the bearing off the fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Q, Take that spring off the pivot post - it shouldn't be there and looks like someone's added it thinking it'll retain the fork (but that's retained once the release bearing is on unless the fork is well and truly worn in which case replace it). Maybe removing that spring will allow the fork to move back just an extra mm or two - the gap doesn't need to be much (as long as the bearing is not in forced contact) - the only thing "pushing" it back is the clutch itself - and the fork / bearing will just "float" on its own (but has been mentioned, you may hear the odd screech but I've also added a lightweight spring onto the end of the arm where the cable goes in so that it pulls it away from the clutch). I use QH CCT132 which is the standard Sierra one (there should be two tiny little leaf springs in those slots that lock the bearing to the fork - they often get broken as you can't see them once the bearing is on and people tend to break them as it's then not obvious how you get the bearing off again ) Given the pita of splitting the engine / gearbox once everything is in place I reckon it's advisable to replace all the clutch / release bearing / fork components unless they really do look like new - they're not that expensive if you shop around. If there still isn't enough space after this - I'd say the easiest (cheapest ?) way to sort would be to fit one or two "dirt" spacer shields between the engine / bellhousing. Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Cheers @tisme and @DamperMan. I've ordered a new CCT132 (as mine does look like it has past its best) and some M10 washers (got to try the cheap options first). Will remove the spring and have a look to see if a different spring on the fork could help keep it away from the fingers. Doing googling I also read I should lubricate the shaft with some grease. What sort of grease? Would be great if I could just get a small amount from Eurocarparts if someone happens to know what to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Squidge of CV graphite grease is fine. The spring was fitted to probably stop the arm from rattling, which it shouldnt do, but someone thought it might help. It may also pull the release bearing and arm away from the pressure plate, to maybe stop it spinning lightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Like http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/comma-cv-lith-moly-grease-500g ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsechris Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I put a weak coil spring over the end of the clutch cable, between the bellhousing and the front face of the fork. It helps to make sure the release bearing is lifted clear of the plate once you release the pedal. It's a tad fiddly to assemble but once together works well. Whole thing still rattles like a b******d at idle though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisme Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 7 hours ago, corsechris said: I put a weak coil spring over the end of the clutch cable, between the bellhousing and the front face of the fork. It helps to make sure the release bearing is lifted clear of the plate once you release the pedal. It's a tad fiddly to assemble but once together works well. Whole thing still rattles like a b******d at idle though That's how I did mine as well - found a suitable compression type spring in my bits box - put a washer under the end where it pushes against the fork just in case the tang of the spring caught in the cable hole and chafed the cable (iyswim). As for grease I used some of this http://www.carlube.co.uk/greases/carlube-lm2-multi-purpose-grease Loads on eBay in small tubes - I wouldn't put much on as it will get fairly hot in there (especially with your spirited driving ) - the release bearing shouldn't really ever touch the shaft if it's centrally located - quite often any "screech" is coming from the flywheel spigot bearing (difficult to check without dismantling the clutch) it should be a roller type and pre-greased - the old ones used to be solid bronze. Smearing some grease on the end of the gearbox shaft will usually suffice though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrustyjust Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 18 hours ago, Quinten said: Like http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/grease/comma-cv-lith-moly-grease-500g ? Yep, thats the stuff. You dont need much, just a thin smear, so that will last a lifetime. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 Well my QH CCT132 and 2L of Comma 75W90 GL4 Semi Synthetic arrived today, so just waiting for the weekend to arrive now Will look into relocating the spring to a more useful location on the fork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingster Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Here's mine on full throw each way for reference using pinto bearing and arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Well, I'm no wiser. Replaced the release bearing, created a springy bit for the fork to return back, but I still have no free play on the fork. Measured up the clutch beforehand and it is a 220mm clutch and from what I've read the correct one. It's almost like the flywheel is too thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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