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Type 9 meets Zetec


Quinten

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This is a question for the more experienced builders.  Have now taken my Zetec and Type 9 gearbox out of the car again so I could test the clutch/release bearing.  When I spoke to @Marto303 when I borrowed some items he mentioned that I should have some 5mm of space between release bearing and finger plate.  But I don't seem to have any space?  The clutch fork has a little movement (no more than 1-2mm) but I can't operate it manually (guess my foot can exercise more force than my fingers).  I took some pictures, which should hopefully help

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I didn't measure the release bearings height (hindsight!), but it was happily in use on my Crossflow/Type 9 combo.  Could it be that I need a slightly smaller (in height) one?  Or will it "sort itself out" once the engine is running?  Is it worth hooking up the gearbox cable so I can try to operate the clutch?

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Q

I can't quite see from the photos but so long as the bearing completely releases from the pressure plate you should be fine. 1mm clearance is as good as 5mm in this case. Just check and be sure the movement in the clutch fork gives the bearing clearance from pressure plate and is not just slack / wear in the fork.

Marto 

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Cheers Martin.  I can't see how the release bearing gets released from the pressure plate?  The clutch fork sits behind it, but is not attached to the bearing, so once you've pushed it against the pressure plate, and the fork returns, how does the bearing return?  Is it the rotational force that 'pushes' it back against the fork?

So really, I should try and see if I can move the bearing back/forward to find out if I've got enough clearance?

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The bearing ( in its holder ) and fork should be clipped together Q ? when you push the fork away from the clutch it takes the bearing with it.

If the bearing is not correctly located on the fork that could also explain where a few mm of clearance has gone ?

 

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Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh (repeat a few more times for effect) !  They currently aren't clipped together!  I had no idea they had to be :blush:  Yes, that will definitely go towards clearance once they are :getmecoat:

So glad I asked!

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Q

Ok when you split the engine and gear box you will now be able to just slide the bearing off the input shaft, you shouldn't actually be able to do this.

Take the bearing off and look at the sides of the holder, you'll see a recess either side :yes: now look at the clutch fork and you'll see the two mounting lugs ( for want of a better description ) on either side of the fork :yes::yes:

Now the fiddly bit getting the bearing to clip to the fork, IIRC it can only go on one way ( i.e. if it doesn't clip on try turning 180 deg and try again ) it might well take a few attempts but it will locate, once on properly you should be able to push n pull the bearing and fork up & down the input shaft without it coming off :yes::yes::yes:

M

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If you are still struggling for clearance after that, you could always fit a thicker shim plate between engine & box, or just double up.

iIRC there are small spring steel clips that latch the release bearing onto the clutch arm. Takes a small amount of force to press the bearing past them and into place.

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is the clutch fork sitting on the bell housing Q? so there is little movement of the fork? if so you have the wrong release bearing and have the same issue I had

 

 

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I won't know until I've split the gearbox from the engine again (a lot easier now they are both out of the car again ;)) this weekend

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So, I took the two apart again and to my surprise the release bearing was clipped in.  I removed both fork and bearing and took some measurements and photos.  I then put them back together with the engine, but there does not seem any significant space for the fork to move, so it does seem I will either need a new (smaller) release bearing, or use spacers on the bellhousing.

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There is nothing that actually keeps the release bearing into the fork, although it does look like there should be?  Strangely enough though, when moving the fork back and forth, the bearing just goes back and forth too, so it does seem to work...

 

Finally, I don't know if this is an issue or not, but the bearing is much larger than the fingers?

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@dombanks actually, I'm not sure what the spring is supposed to do?  The fork certainly doesn't move back or forth on it's own accord due to it, but maybe it is only there to be like a sort of 'damper' ?

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Release bearing has two little metal lugs . Which is good, so you can put a new bearing in, as that looks a bit tired. It may fall forward when fitted and not locate correctly and give you a false arm position. Certain things like CRB its worth fitting new as the time required to replace one is huge.

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@Thrustyjust you mean, just replace the bearing in the carrier (that part which has the two lugs?). But that still would leave me with a clearance issue?

 

Could another option be to 'straighten' the fork a little so it puts the bearing back a little more?

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